Replies

1. 
   bigfootnampa | Dec 29, 2004 02:34am | #1

   Food coloring would be a VERY BAD idea ... it would bleed through any waterbase paints.  You could use a dab of portland cement which would also add some moisture resistance.  I usually prime and then touch up any spots that need it and spot prime over them and then paint.  My brother did a neat job where he tinted the mud with mortar colorant and then textured and glazed with slightly tinted clear coats.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/28/2004 6:37 pm ET by CMR

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 29, 2004 02:52am | #4

   thanks - point taken

2. 
   james | Dec 29, 2004 02:35am | #2

   shoe,

   for the final go thru we mix some blue chalk ( like for a chalkline ) in with the mud.... lets you immediately see where you need to sand without having to look all about.

    

   james

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 29, 2004 02:52am | #5

   thanks - was wondering if the chalk wouldn't work alright

3. 
   RW | Dec 29, 2004 02:35am | #3

   Yup. Do that all the time. There's a couple of things that work. The one I lean on most is chalk from the chalk box. Black or blue. The red makes it pink, and in addition to looking sissy, it can show through lighter paints (don't ask me why, I dunno). But the blue or black (gives light grey) do good. Mix it until you don't have a marble look anymore. In a bind, for real small stuff, you can use latex paint. The colorants there mix real easy. I tend to do that when I find divots after I've already primed, and I mix the top color into the mud. My theory, unproven, is that a little paint ought to help reduce the sheen difference. Works so far. It doesn't take much of either. 1 Tbs of chalk or 1 4" knife of paint (defined as you dip the knife in the bucket about 2/3 of the way, whatever sticks to the knife when you pull it out) is enough to do a full mud pan.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 29, 2004 02:55am | #6

   thanks - chalk it is then

   As far as the red chalk goes - the bleed through must have something to do with the red being far more permanent than the blue

1. 
   IMERC | Dec 29, 2004 03:21am | #7

   read the warning label on the red chaulk bottle some time.........

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 29, 2004 03:28am | #8

   I'll try to remember to do that

2. 
   james | Dec 29, 2004 03:29am | #9

   I guess you know why i don't allow red chalk on my jobs ( generally we are remodeling )

    

   james

1. 
   IMERC | Dec 29, 2004 03:30am | #10

   fersure...

   that stuff can fuel a nightmare....

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

4. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 29, 2004 03:52am | #11

    

   The ...El Chepo,  PVA primer (tinted or not) is the best.

   Not only you can see your work better but your work is better due to smooothhhh finish. With no sanding needed.

   Works even better if you add one cup of plaster of paris to one 5/gallon bucket.

   YCF.

1. 
   Jemcon | Dec 29, 2004 04:50am | #13

   Will it ruin the rest of the bucket if you add plaster to the mix. In other words, can you save the rest of the mix for future use or is it a one shot deal? Same thing with the primer, if you only add primer, can you save it and reuse it?

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Dec 29, 2004 05:39am | #14

   Why not use standard Tints-All paint tinting additive?  That way you're not competing with actual paint drying vs. mud drying.

   TJC

1. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 29, 2004 06:12am | #16

   Jeff. Why not eliminate sanding and make your mud job Ezier and better?

   Edit.   Chancing the color of the mud it only gives you a different color dust at the end.

   YCF

   Edited 12/28/2004 10:13 pm ET by YCFriend

2. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 29, 2004 05:52am | #15

   You mix what you need for the day.

   In order to keep it workable for the second day, you add mud and primer only. And you mix the plaster of paris when you're ready to use it. Some how.. the second day mix is even better.

   This is funny. In one job the  (lady) homeowner use a whole 5/gallon bucket overnight. Next day the entire living room walls look ...like glass. (like veneer plaster)  In that job I was timing the mix with the plaster of paris to see for   how long the mix can be usable. It don't last one night.

   But I'm sure, after you screw-up few hundred times you can find the way to keep the D-mix usable for few days or even weeks.

     YCF

2. 
   Shoeman | Dec 30, 2004 05:25pm | #20

   will have to try the paint thing also - thanks again

3. 
   Don | Jan 04, 2005 08:05am | #21

   Couple weeks ago you mentioned using PVA primer in mud to help find where you'd been.Pls outline how you do it - couldn't figure it out from the Dec 28 msg.I have a whole house to paint after fixing up the wallboard from the finishers. Didn't realize what a mess they really left me. Sorta like the surface of the moon in some places.I've been using yellow food color, w/o any serious bleedthrough - so far.Thanks.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!

1. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 04, 2005 08:31am | #22

   Hi Don. Take 3 gallons of joint compound and mix it with 1/4  to  1/2 gallon of PVA primer.  If you use a taping knife make the mix tight. 1/4 of a gallon.

   If you use a roller to skim coat the whole wall make the mix lose. 1/2 of a gallon.

   And one coffee cup of plaster of paris.(small cup)

   The details of the application.....you will find them out as you go.

   Good luck.

   EZ dino

5. 
   MojoMan | Dec 29, 2004 04:44am | #12

   I think Mike Guertin had a tip in a recent FHB about using a little yellow food coloring in mud for just this purpose.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

6. 
   MSA1 | Dec 29, 2004 06:16am | #17

   I've used food color before. You have to becareful. Dont put too much in or it will bleed as previously mentioned. Just enough to make a difference between the white stuff. BTW DONT USE BLUE DYE. Found that out the hard way. I had one corner in a bedroom ceiling take 9 coats of paint and primer(oops).

7. 
   briank | Dec 29, 2004 07:22am | #18

   Here in the Windy City, tinted topping (yellow) is readily available--mostly used commercially though.  I would check with the manufacturer (USG, etc) to see what they recommend.

8. 
   duster1 | Dec 29, 2004 08:51am | #19

   I've used "earth tones" latex flat paint- brown or rose tints, about
   a cup for the wet "box; dries and shows the last line of the
   bedding and first coat, the topping coat covers well!

9. 
   superwork | Jan 04, 2005 04:53pm | #23

   Great question , I've never done it . But I have seen it done . By an old timer who is very open to new ideas . He put in a little yellow food coloring in the compound . Then did his touch-ups . That way he only had to sand where it was yellow . Thats how he does his own punch list .

   Mike- Foxboro , Mass.

    

1. 
   Shoeman | Jan 10, 2005 05:01am | #24

   I used a little blue chalk on my last job as that is what I had handy on site - worked well

   Thanks all for the input

   Still need to take the time to try some of the D-mix