I have two questions in regards to installing some base/floor trim in my bathroom. First, I bought composite trim. I thought it would be better in a damp environment like the bathroom. First, can I use a finish gun with composite trim or will it crack or split. Secondly, the walls are plaster and I’m worried they will crack from a finish gun, or that the finish nails won’t even penetrate the plaster. Should I pre-drill and use nails instead? Don’t have a lot of experience with plaster. I just finished remodelling most of the bathroom, but most of the wall surface was left undisturbed. The plaster that I did remove had very coarse aggregate in it, and it’s about and inch think over 1/2 inch think drywall strips. As always, thanks in advance for any help.
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I've used an 18 gauge finish nailer on composite (plastic) trim. It worked just fine, but I'm not a fan of plastic trim. It was supplied, so I worked with what I was given. I doubt if it would've worked on shoe molding without cracking. The stuff is so cheap, why not experiment?
I think you'll be fine with the paster too. Finish nailers probably cause less vibration to the walls than hammering, even with a pilot hole.
-Don
Glue to trim in place. Get a small tub of the adhesive that's used for rubber base.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks for the tips. Both of those ideas are things I was considering. I may cut a small piece and test the use of a finish gun inside the closet where it won't matter if something doesn't work out. Also, I had thought of glueing it as well. Hopefully the combination works out. I'll give it all a try this weekend. Thanks again.
Just out of curiosity, when you say "composite trim" exactly what do you mean? Plastic, wood/plastic combination, MDF, or what? Composite is kind of an ambiguous word...
I'm sorry, I thought I specified that in my original post. It's plastic. I bought it at Home Depot. I've seen the trim that feels like styrofoam, but this is a fairly heavy and dense plastic. Hope that helps.
It's, probably the "Marley Mouldings" stuff, or "Royal Mouldings" is their new name.
Good stuff. It will not split or crack. It can sometime leave a bit of distorted plastic proud of the face, which can be cut off flush with a razor blade or utility knife.
If you are not painting it, consider using glue so you do not have to patch the holes.
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I use the Loctite "Powergrab" adhesive. Then caulk the top with "White Lightning" on base, top and bottom on cove, etc. A couple of 18 ga nails usually helps.
Edited 1/31/2006 10:40 am ET by rasconc
Thanks for all the tips. I used Loctite, and everything went perfectly. One more step closer to finishing this project that I've been dragging my feet on. Thanks again.
Locate the studs on the wall and nail the trim with any nail gun.I use a 15ga for base,18ga for smaller stuff,exactly like it was wood. Some plastic trim the joints can be glued together with a special cement.Azec is one brand. If there is a particular glue that is specified,use it, don't substitute.Finish nails for pneumatics are 2 1/2" maximum length.If the plaster and gyp board behind it are 1 1/2" or so thick and your trim is 3/4" thick,then hand nail with 16d casing nails. I use a nail spinner for this. The spinner will turn the nail about 3/4 of the way in, hammer and set the nail the rest of the way .
mike
When we install solid surface material, and paneling sheets that cannot have any holes, we use a good adhesive, and hot melt glue to hold it until the adhesive sets. Might try it on scrap first to avoid melting your trim.