I’m going to build my sister a computer desk for Christmas. I don’t know how to do the finish. I’ve seen desks that are white, but they have a really hard finish. Almost scratch resistant. Any Ideas?
Along with finish, any suggestions on the best material?
Replies
Some cheap ones use melamine, basically a thin white skin on particle board with iron on edge material. Better is 4/3" plywood with a laminate (formica or a clone). Primo is hardwood with poly or shellac finish. (stain optional) You can compromise that with a blend of veneered plywood and hardwood edges.
yeah I don't think I want to use melamine. Good for some stuff but not this. For the inside of the cabinets it would be nice and I may consider it, but for the exterior finish I will have some decorative trim that will need to be painted. So I don't think It will match. I don't like MDF either. MDF limits me to how I need to fasten it. I have to make it modular and I want to use pocket screws for the final assembly. But it may have to be moved so I can't use glue on all of the joints.
My 2 cents,,is use a white lacquer tint base over MDO with solid wood edgeing. Next would be T-moulding ( that plastic radiused hammer-in- a groove stuff) after the spraying.
Comp desks get edge dings from chairs, moving CPU's and general coffee rings and stuff. A Lacquer will be durable ( for this) and clean up easy.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I don't like MDF either. MDF limits me to how I need to fasten it. I have to make it modular and I want to use pocket screws for the final assembly
It sounds like you already have your mind made up. But 99% of computer desks out there are modular and made out of some form of MDF. Why can't it work for you?
I guess I would need to know more about your dimensions and layout.
First it's a 6' by 6' corner desk. And your right about most desks being made of MDF. But these desks also have those little aluminium pins and clamps to hold them together. Plus from my many years of buying furniture from Wal-Mart and Office Depot I know that they don't last very well. Also I have to use MDF on the cruise ships and I personally don't even want to think of that stuff on land.
To screw in MDF use confirmat screws.
They need special drill bit. If it were my project, I would use birch painted with oil based Ben Moore. It can be rolled on with little roller(don't use the foam ones) and the finish is very durable.http://www.mcfeelys.com/confirmat-assembly
If it was me I would make it out of 3/4" ply with a formica/clone top but I suppose it really depends on if you have a router or other rotary cutter type tool to trim up the laminate. You double up the edges (1 1/2") and put the laminate on them (first) then the top overlays the edge piece.
Put "T" nuts in the top before you laminate them, countersunk flush. Then you have an easy way to fasten the top securely and still be able to break it down easily. Just be sure your bolts are not too long!
Since this comes in a 4x8 you might have enough to do the front/side too with careful planning.It might be easiest to just buy the pre-laminated counters from the home store if you don't have the tools. They sell them with the 45 miter.
Unless I see an example of what your refering to, I think I'm leaning toward all wood. I just am not sure about the finish. I want to use wood because I want to have nice trim around the edges and the door and side panels. I may mix in some MDF where I can. I'll know exactly where when I get the plans finished.
I have to make it look nice because it will be in my sisters office and she will have several clients in there this tax season.
Kyle,
Any place you have a large, flat surface, I would recommend MDF (or MDO). It will give the smoothest finish with the least effort. If you plan to add real wood as a trim, it attaches very easy with glue and a nail gun. You can mix real wood doors and face frames with MDF - if it's going to be painted.
For the finish, easy and durable. Sand all real wood up to 180-220. Go through 100 and 150 first. If you use MDF, only sand any exposed edges (but you probably won't have any).
I'm assuming you don't have any spray equipment. Pick either water based or oil based and use the same for all steps. I recommend oil based. Prime everything and sand with 400. Paint with your white paint, and sand with 400 again to eliminate your brush strokes. Make sure you have no exposed wood. At this point you should have a very smooth, all-white surface that just doesn't look finished yet.
Wait a day or two. Now use a super-clear poly (reguluar poly will turn yellow with age). Thin it to 50:50 and brush or wipe on. Sand with 400. Thin the poly down to 1 part poly and 2 parts thinner. Wipe on this coat and rub it in with 600 or 800 wet/dry sand paper. You can repeat this process with a finer wet/dry paper if desired (like 1200 grit). You should have a very smooth, durable surface at this point. You can put several coats on the top if you feel it's necessary.
Hope this helps,Joe
Edited 11/18/2008 2:30 pm by JMadson
Edited 11/18/2008 2:30 pm by JMadson
I've seen someone (quite a craftsman, actually) finish the edges of Formica with nothing more than a rasp -- no laminate trimmer.
The only function of economic forecasting is to make astrology look respectable. --John Kenneth Galbraith
Actually, a 1/2 round FILE zips an overhang right off, right quick.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Yeah, he used either a coarse file or a fine rasp. It's been 20 years at least since I saw it done, so can't remember the details. But he cut through the stuff like butter, and ended with a nicely beveled edge. Could not have done it faster or neater with a laminate cutter.
The only function of economic forecasting is to make astrology look respectable. --John Kenneth Galbraith
The same technique works well with the iron on veneer edgeing. I've done miles that way, any cutting or bladed edge tool, can allow grain tear out more often. And lord knows I have had bearing burns from trimmer bits too often too.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
My only suggestion is to have lots of easily accesable power and USB outlets ABOVE the desk, as well as places for the jumble of wires to hide behind.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Tu stultus es
A good material for painting is actually MDF. It's a little heavy and the sawdust is a mess, but it looks good when it's done. Otherwise just use a decent birch plywood (fyi - nothing from Home Depot can be considered decent).
How large will this desk be? Any doors or drawers?
For the finish, you can always paint it white and then put a clear coat over it. With white, you have to make sure you use a clear finish - i.e. most polys will yellow with age. I'm sure others will chime in on the best final coat to use.
I haven't been able to find it lately but I shot my home built bathroom cabinets with Red Devil white polyurethane paint and they still look great 10 years later. Nothing my wife, daughter and grandkids have thrown at them seem to make a mark I can't wipe off. I am not sure what happened to poly paint but it seems to have disappeared.
I started mine with a pine wood table top I found at HD. I then stained and used tongue oil. I put it on top of 2 2-drawer file cabinets. The only thing I would do different is to buy one of those Keyboard/mouse trays to mount under the top.
Just my 2 cents ...
I've designed and built several computer desks and do them much like kitchen cabinets as far as wood species and stain. (i.e. whatever the customer says they want.)
I use precatalyzed lacquer or polyurethane as a finish and shoot a couple of extra coats on the desk tops. Unless they're really abused, they hold up just fine.
Plan your desk carefully and make sure you allow for cable routing and air circulation around the tower. I usually hide a surge protector/plug strip somewhere inside the desk. Drop down keyboard trays can be cool, but some folks (like me - lol) don't like them.
These desks both have file drawers designed for hanging files, and "drawers" for the printers. Printer "drawers" are a neat feature if minimizing desktop "clutter" is important. (Note: The cable rats nest in the last picture was cleaned up when the desk was moved to it's final location. - lol)
The second desk is really nice. It looks like an old style office desk.
Very nice work.
Edited 11/18/2008 9:55 am ET by Marion
Thanks, Marion. That was the "look" the customer wanted and then I had to beat it into submission as a modern computer desk. - lolIf I were doing it as a paint grade project (like the OP seems to be doing), I would use birch or maple plywood with poplar for the solid wood parts. All three paint out quite well and I've done a couple of painted projects using a Kelly Moore paint specifically formulated for high use surfaces like tables, door jambs, etc.
Just make it out of birch plywood and stain/varnish it. Birch is hard and will resist scratches and dings. You don't have to conceal the edges unless you really want to -- just fill the worst of the voids. The main problem with birch (aside from the price) is that it doesn't take stain well, so don't try to stain it dark -- go for a honey color or use a gel-type stain.
My sister needs it to be white to match her other furniture