I am in the process of building my dream home. Right now I am in the rough electrical phase. I would like to wire my house with CAT 5 wiring so I can network my computers throughout the house. Any ideas on how to properly do that? I am looking for a good website or a book to follow direction. I am not an electrician or a computer person.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
Replies
there are "right" ways to do it, and many wrong ways.
I part-time in IT (full-timer has-been), and have followed up behind rough-ins done by electricians that treated it no differently than doorbell or phone wiring. And much sloppy install work will not pass cable certification tests.
On the good side, DIY is possible, especially since your 'heavy' traffic will be broadband Internet, which is well under 10Mbps (most networking gear is 100Mbps now), so small screw ups won't kill your speed too bad.
Congrats on decision to go wired, wireless is not all it's cracked up to be (both reliablity, performance, and security).
Be sure and place it in conduit, at least 3/4", 1" if possible (combined phone, data, tv), so you can pull in any future technologies. I just stub to the basement/crawlspace, and run open from there.
I'll be back with a link or 2
Good idea but wrong conception. Don't run cables in any inaccessible area. Do run PVC conduit. Best case is to run conduit for the full runs to a communications closet or board. A good alternative is to run cable where easily accessible, like attics and crawl spaces, and run conduit down or up through the walls.
The constant need for changes driven by adding on or moving computers or adding capabilities and ever changing standards and materials makes conduit the way to go. If fiber is the way to go you can rip out what you have and install fiber easily.
You could go wireless but I don't like wireless very much. Lots of issues like security, interference and consistency. When it works it works well. Mostly it works. But when it doesn't it is a pain. And security is a problem that can bite you without your even knowing it. Hardwire, once installed and set up, is very reliable, consistent and secure. The hardware is also cheaper.
4Lorn1 -
Why the specification of PVC conduit? I have become reasonably proficient in bending EMT, but haven't tried PVC. What are your secrets for accurate bends in PVC?
If your comfortable and proficient with EMT is can go in quickly enough. You can gain a bit of shielding but most of the better cables are pretty well shielded so the improvement is usually minimal.The reason I recommended PVC is because it has more flex than EMT and cuts and glues together quickly. Once assembled it is pretty rugged. Bends can be bought, handy, bent into lengths with heat or, if you have a lot of room, a long length can be swept quite a bit. Long sweeps make pulling in cables easier. A 20' radius sweep pulls only slightly less easily than a straight run.Accurate bends in PVC are largely a myth. Get them close and let the flex of the material make up the difference. Bends can be done with a torch, heat gun, heat blanket, bending oven or even a hot tailpipe. The blanket is nice, one of my favorite methods as it is fast and consistent but mostly I use a simple propane torch as it is handy, compact and doesn't need power. With practice a nice smooth ninety can be laid into a length of 3/4" PVC in a couple of minutes without scorching. Some have recommended ENT, smurf pipe, but I never liked the stuff. I have seen too many connectors and couplings come apart with age or for no apparent reason. If a coupling in a wall parts while pushing in a fish tape or while pulling in a cable your boned. The stuff is not something I would care to have installed in my house.Of course you could install rigid steel conduit. Bending is a pain and the threading takes some high dollar tools but it could be done. Once worked on a wood frame house that was wired in rigid steel. A high dollar installation. Must have been a pain to cut and thread all those lengths to get them through the framing. A bit of overkill IMHO.
The new version of Black & Decker's Complete Guide to Electrical Wiring (excellent DIY book, BTW) has several chapters in the back on structured wiring and such. It's a start.
As suggested, run conduits to attic, basement where ever possible. This is so easy when the walls are open and so painful when the drywall is up. Run a bunch of them. Try to be generous in conduit size.
We just finished a cell site on the roof of an office building in Cypress. There is a 4" conduit from the panel down to the telco closet in the basement. I was directed to pull four Cat 3s thru it. Plenty of room <g>.
HD and others are carrying a structured wire cable with fiber, Cat 5, etc., etc. in one cable. Check it out.
SonInLaw had his runs terminate in a closet in the middle of the house. One side wall is the low voltage stuff with panel, AC feed, etc. The other side is the back of the 200A AC panel. A chase supplies them.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Wireless is not as bad as they claim. I too am an IT guy who builds networks (and the occasional house) and I have conduit in my own home from the attic to the telco closet but I still have 2 wireless transmitters for wireless internet reception, that work anywhere in my house or yard. I use encrypted wireless and you're welcome to try and get in, anytime... but you won't! So unless you have a need for gigabit ethernet (servers, graphic artist, 3D animator), hard wiring your whole house is, IMHO, a waste of money.
You could run a couple of wires, like say, between your computer room and your home theatre for instance, for your future media server (way of the future) if you really wanted to. The other technology which shows promise is IP over standard power cables, and in that case your house is already wired and ready to go.
The men may be the head of the house, but the women are the neck and they can turn the head anyway they want.
If you've never done network wiring before and you really want cat 5 or 6 performance I'd recomend paying a guy that has the qualifications and gear to certify your LAN. You can't get 'real' cat 5 certification without some expensive test gear and careful adherance to installation workmanship (stapling technique, radius of bends, untwisting, etc.). If you're happy with 10mb cat 3 ethernet then go ahead and pull your station runs and punch them down on the basic Leviton jacks that Home Creapo sells. 10mb will pretty much run over barbed wire fencing.
Otherwise, consider wireless.
Scott.
Edited 11/25/2005 3:04 am ET by Scott
Don't forget one real advantage of wireless - infinite portability for notebook computers. I can browse BT from the dining room table, kitchen counter, sofa in front of the TV, sprawled on the floor, out on the deck, on the front stoop, in the garage....in the bathtub if I wanted.
We also have a desktop station, so we can send everything to one printer from anywhere. The other half is a network expert, so our security settings are current. We can 'see' every new home wireless network in the neighbourhood pop up. Sometimes the identity is so easy to work out that hubby will knock on a door and tell them what security features to adopt.
infinite portability for notebook computers
To the limit (length) of the a/c power cord <g> . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
From:
CapnMac <!----><!---->
Nov-28 12:17 pm
To:
hacknhope <!----><!---->
infinite portability for notebook computers
To the limit (length) of the a/c power cord <g> . . .
Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
The point being that you can unplug the notebook computer, run it off the battery, and walk into the back yard, or across the street to the neighbour's house, and still surf and print at home. It would be moot, if I didn't have a portable devices, but we do (notebooks and PDAs). Yes, battery life on the notebook is an issue. But, I still don't need a CAT5 cable to the back deck or the hammock, just a regular AC outlet and extension cord, and I'm connected indefinitely.
Even with a hard-wired system (great for new homes) you may still WANT wireless on top. I adore it.
Been to the game of happily connected and wire-free.
Been to the "make the stinking low battery alarm stop popping up, too <g>
Oh, and the "portable" l/t, that has a printer, three usb devices, and a power cord to keep it good and 'flexible' <g> . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I also have felt the 'carrying my office on my back doesn't feel like freedom' experience.....
-S
I also think wireless is the wave of the future. All issues with wireless will be worked out. Sure you will always have your hacks trying to crack in to there neighbors computer but it will get harder and harder.I worked many years in the network cabling business. Have installed 40K to 50K worth of cabling in a super sized McMansion. IMHO what a waste of money!! 2 to 6 strand fiber (4) CAT 5, (4) RG6 to 3 or 4 locations and just about every room. Patch panels in the mech room that looked like a switch room for a small town. The media room, well I will not go there. Put in chase ways, install what you need and worry later about what's next.
Stog,
PROPERLY set up, wireless is the way to go. It has gotten a bad rap, because too many people run it out of the box, not making the necessary default changes. Far cheaper than running conduit and cable all through your house.
WSJ
Count me in on wireless also. People ask me if my present house for sale is wired cat 5 and my canned response is "No, in five years that will be outdated and you'll have a lot of money in the walls that could have been put somewhere else. I took that $1000 and put a floating slab back porch instead of wood. Wireless is the way to go and will only get better and soon you won't even need the equipment in your house. It will all be like Verizon wireless internet is now. You can carry that laptop around your house or around the country, same service."
(Ex-technician, present homebuilder, wondering where the money is.)
I agree with 4lorn1, install a raceway, pvc pipe or smurf tube, from each wall outlet to an accessible location. Then, you only have to pull cable to the outlet points you are using and you can always change to an upgraded system like fiber or CAT 6 or 7 (when the industry finally settles on those standards.)There are no electrons! It is all made up. Don't believe it.
Electricity is made by GREENIES.
I've got wireless and it's pretty much worked flawlessly. We did have one crap out but I've also burned out everything I own at least twice in my lifetime.
I'd be interested to know how somone else can see mine pop up though.
blue
Anyone with a wireless network card RECEIVER can "see" whatever wireless access point (WAP) that is BROADCASTING within it's listening range.
BUT.... if the broadcasting WAP has turned on the WEP (wireless encryption protocol) and uses a decent sized WEP key (the secret multi digit password) then only those with the same WEP key configured on their wireless network card can get in the network.
So, when you tell you laptops wireless card to scan the area for networks to join, you will see your neighbors Network ID (SSID aka service set ID). But unless you know the WEP you won't get in their network.
Some people do not set up their WEP, so you could get in their network and then print a message on their printer that says something silly like "Please change the channel on the big screen TV".
Would be fun to come up with a list of silly (or scary) messages to send to your neighbors printer!
"Anyone with a wireless network card RECEIVER can "see" whatever wireless access point (WAP) that is BROADCASTING within it's listening range."
True, but only if the wireless router is set to broadcast the SSID. Most routers have a configuration option where you can turn off the SSID broadcast, meaning you have to know both the SSID and the encryption code (WEP or other) to get onto the network. If you don't know the SSID, you never even see the WAP.
As someone mentioned earlier, too many wireless systems are run right out of the box, without being configured for security and performance...
Even if you know the SSID, may computers are not set to "share" their drive(s).
So the lesson is:
Wireless is easy
Configure for at least 128 encryption for WEP
Don't share your drives, share a folder if you really need to
Turn off broadcasting your SSID if you have that feature
Breaking the WEP key on the campus network is a right of passage for any UG computer science student.Wireless is NOT secure and will NEVER be secure.Security people always put wireless network OUTSIDE the firewall.Bandwidth: Eventually everything will run on home computer network. Including HDTV.
Wireless is NOT secure and will NEVER be secure.
You don't sound so strong in your convictions. <G>
Sorry, but 128 bit HEX encryption is very tough. 256 is near impossible to break, you'd need an industrial super computer and mucho time. The Feds wanted a secret backdoor for encryption keys, so how NOT secure is it?
Let's put it this way, no one and I mean NO ONE is going to waste time trying to break a 128 or 256 bit HEX encryption key for someones HOME NETWORK.
Wireless is NOT secure and will NEVER be secure."
And the ONLY WAY to guarantee a home network is secure is to not hook up to the internet...Now that makes a lot of sense.
WSJ
I too looked at wi-fi @ home as the redheaded child of home networking.... but, being that i'm an IT guy too, I decided it was time to do it right and go wiresless (for part of my network). I already have cat 5e running to all the upstairs rooms where the computers, printers, etc are located, but it left a huge void in my heart when it came to aimlessly roaming the house with my laptop. So, here is what I did (i'll get a little more technical now)cable modem --> (1) Linksys 802.11g router + 4 LAN ports --> (2) Linksys 4 port Router1) connects to the cable modem, retrieves my WAN IP address via DHCP, provides WIFI w/ WPA 2 128bit encryption, and I've connected my network Printer to it on one of its LAN ports. IP address: 192.168.1.1 sub: 255.255.255.0 2) Connects to 1 via its WAN port (just like its plugged into a modem) and hosts all the wired computers using the LAN address 192.168.2.1 now, all my computers can print to the print server, yet my "mission critical" computers where i like to do my online banking, etc are hidden behind the second firewall. I figure this set-up coupled with the fact that two of my neighbors are running straight out of the box configs, should keep me pretty safe. of course nothing is perfect, but the goal is to stop your typical WAR drivers, etc. A couple other good ideas that not enough people do:
- is change the default SSID and don't allow for broadcasting.
- don't allow for WIFI connections to modify the Admin settings.
- don't allow for DHCP on your wifi (a common method of attach is to kick your computer
off the network, then steal the connection information when it tries to reconnect)have fun
-mike
"1) connects to the cable modem, retrieves my WAN IP address via DHCP, provides WIFI w/ WPA 2 128bit encryption, and I've connected my network Printer to it on one of its LAN ports. IP address: 192.168.1.1 sub: 255.255.255.0"Just curious.....did you need to do any software setup for the printer, or did you just plug it into the lan port & find it on your network?
i assigned the print server a static IP, subnet and gateway. on my mac laptops it was a breeze to use. on Windows XP, i had to make a virtual Port assigned to that IP, and then add the printer manually. it wasn't that bad. -mike.
Thanks for the info....
A couple other good ideas that not enough people do: - is change the default SSID and don't allow for broadcasting. - don't allow for WIFI connections to modify the Admin settings.- don't allow for DHCP on your wifi (a common method of attach is to kick your computer off the network, then steal the connection information when it tries to reconnect)
Mike,
Well said.....I'd add, a USB [dis]connectable external HD for personal/sensitive data you can unplug helps for security.
What people who say "go hardwired" don't get, is you are still connected to the outside world one way or the other if you use the internet. Da, if you are here, anybody could be hacking into your system as we converse.
EDIT:IMO: Hardwiring Cat is a waste, running chases for future (unknown) technology, not such a bad idea, just be sure to pull string though before it's all closed up and buttoned shut.
WSJ
Edited 11/28/2005 9:25 pm ET by WorkshopJon
Not with a suitable firewall, a reasonably safe browser (not Windoze Exploder), a halfway decent antivirus package, and "safe sex" browsing practices.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I'm wondering if the "chase" would get allowed in our area. We have to caulk all holes up from the crawlspace, and firecaulk all holes above that.
Install a pipe cap. That will keep the pipe from acting like a flue.
66290.42 in reply to 66290.40
Install a pipe cap."
VA, You beat me to that one.
WSJ
You can put a box on each end of the conduit. If you stub out some conduit from each box, I doubt the inspector would have a problem with it.If you want to run more wires/cables, just open the box and either use a fishtape or have a group of pull cords there from the beginning.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Yeah, I've heard a proposal for "safe" Internet computing, everybody will have "green" and "red" machines. Green ones are safe, that's where we do online banking....with the bank using 4-digit PINs to protect your account.....Red ones are outside the firewall, that's where we read breaktime, porn, etc.Of course you've got to be *real* careful about anything you transfer between the machines.I have no problems with wireless outside the firewall....just don't want people thinking they're "secure" because of some stinking WEP key.....and as you say MAC addresses can be spoofed.....
Most of the industry wires houses in a fairly permanent manner. Specifically, wiring to the location and fastening the cables to the studs. This is due to the fact that infrastructure doesn't change nearly as fast as the hardware, so the Cat 5e will be fine for a long time. Most homes really don't need to be on the cutting edge in terms of the wiring and most people don't want to prewire any more than they need to. That being said, for the locations where technology changes are likely, smurf tube is a good idea. The rest of the house can be wired more permanently. Installing 1-1/2" to 2" smurf tube to the attic from the basement or head end is always a good idea, too. There are resources out there which will detail the methods of correctly prewiring a house. Most contractors will place at least 1 Cat5e and 1 coax at each box. The place I worked for until recently usually ran bundled wire(2 coax and 2 Cat 5e) to each box. Personally, I like having the four cables, but terminating this much in a single gang box is a PITA so I would recommend using a double gang box with a single gang mudring. You can use Leviton or Pass & Seymour terminations and plates. P&S tend to be a little easier to punch the Cat5e down and if you're using a single port plate, you need to feed the wire through before punching it down. Speaking of punchdown standards, the industry has recently adopted TIA 570B, which is the same as the old 468A (pair 1 is blue, pair 2 is green, pair 3 is orange, pair 4 is brown). Make sure there are no bad terminations and the network will work with minimal problems. Coax should be terminated with Snap-n-Seal ends, never with crimpless screw-on ends. The cable should be RG-6 (RG-6 quad insulated is slightly better) and there can be no tight bends or kinks. No cable should run parallel to high voltage lines because noise WILL be picked up if it's run the wrong way there's not a good way to eliminate the hum without affecting the performance. If the lines must cross, they should cross at a right angle. Most rooms should be wired with an eye to the future, so TV and phone jacks will appear to be all over the house, but if the locations aren't wired it may be difficult to install to them later. If you don't want to terminate the unused locations immediately, blank plates can be installed. To keep the head end clean and orderly, a structured wiring panel is the way to go. You can get phone, network and RF blocks and by keeping everything in one place, rerouting and upgrading is easier.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
The one thing I would add is to consider what you will have at the conjunction end of the wires (where they all meet up). I used the P&S box (actually two) but they are made basically for their stuff. So I need a shelf outside of the box to hold the cable modem, router, switches, etc. And the larger switches have fans and are a bit noisy.
I recommend Cat 6, and like someone else said, after installation make sure to have it tested for everything, not just continuity. Minimum turn radius is 1", and maximum pull strength is 25 lbs.
I use the Cat 6 for phone too. And I put 4 Cat 6 plus 2 co-ax at most boxes. You can get just about anything now adays that plugs into ethernet cabling. Speakers, baby monitors, security cameras, etc. I've got 20 ports, and I've already used all of them!
Wireless is OK, but with a new house being built it would be dumb to not wire it for a network.
First off, see what the electrical contractor suggests as a "standard" package. I would hope that network wiring is common enough now that most contractors know how to do at least a basic job.
You have basically two dimensions of freedom: Extent and flexibility. By extent, I mean you can go with network cables just to the home office and the kids' bedrooms, or you can wire everywhere except (possibly) the bathroom. By flexibility I mean you can string extra cable, install conduit, etc, to allow for future expansion or upgrade.
Also keep in mind that TV/satellite cables and phone lines are generally installed as a part of the same package, and are subject to the same considerations. If you live in an area where an antenna rotator is likely to be needed be sure that rotator cable is also installed.
At a minimum, you should have two Cat6 cables installed to home office and kids' bedrooms. These should "home run" to a "patch panel" area in some utility area where there is room for a cable modem, router, etc. This is also probably where TV cables should be run to connect to cable amp. The area should have at least a 1/2" piece of plywood maybe 2 feet wide and 3 feet high. A cabinet of some sort is better. Make sure that the area has at least two duplex outlets (four plug positions).
If you're likely to want, eg, to have a DSL modem located somewhere other than this utility area, be sure to run extra cables for that.
In addition to the above, run unused 3/4 or 1 inch conduit (at least a pair of them) between, eg, attic and basement, and maybe garage, so that new cables can be more easily run in the future.
The "whole hog" installation is conduit everywhere. This will allow upgrading in 20 years or so when fiber optic finally becomes practical.
happy?
At a minimum, you should have two Cat6 cables installed to home office and kids' bedrooms. These should "home run" to a "patch panel" area in some utility area where there is room for a cable modem, router, etc. ............."
Dan,
@$K.....or a $150.00 wireless router, plus 50 bucks for a High School nerd to set it up for you if you don't know how to read the instructions.
WSJ
If you have an existing home then sticking with wireless makes sense. But if you're building a new home and the walls are open it would be foolish to not do some network cabling.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Any ideas on how to properly do that?
About 2-3 per person, here <g>.
The real trick is deciding where, in each room, to put the cat5 "outlet." That will then give some good definition to the rest of the problem.
The other thing to think about, is how you will distribute the system. Not that terribly complicated to peer-to-peer (aka P2P) 5-6 computers together. It can, however be a little more difficult to live with a P2P in a home.
For some families, you may want a distributed system. You'd have a "hub" of sorts that would be the source of all the shared systems. Then each room/use "springs" from there.
Why bother? Well, suppose we need ot "ground" one of the chilluns. Being able to actually cut off internect connections (but not the printer, needed for schoolwork) gives some control. Lets a parent maintain either or both kinds of firewall, as well.
Sounds simple, yes? It is, just as simple as familes <g>. That's why there's no one web page or book to go point to and say "do that, it works."
Here's a medium long thread with a wide variety of useful advice: http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=65517.1
MAC addresses can be spoofed. plus i don't want to have to add every friend/family member's MAC address to my router. its easier to give them the SSID and the WPA password.
Hello Stogman,
I read all of the posts here and if you decide to hardwire, The one thing everyone seemed to miss, is when you cross an electrical wire do so at a 90* angle/ perpendicular to it. Also allow if possible 1ft clearance. Do not run parallel to any electrical wire even if you do use conduit unless it has 1ft clearance.
I have pulled many...many miles of cable over the years and can't express enough the need to keep the cables away from electrical wiring.
Check your city codes also as they may require Plenum grade cable. Many don't as of yet, but I am finding that some of the larger municipalities are requiring this in new construction for fire reasons same as if a commercial install.
Also make sure that your jacks and termination points are rated for the cable type and core type, stranded core or solid core. There is a difference in the connection of the jacks for each type and while you will get a connection with either, the correct one will make for the best connection obviously. LOL!!!.
Hope I've been able to help and Happy Holidays to all.
Mike K
Edited 11/29/2005 8:58 am by MiKro
> I read all of the posts here and if you decide to hardwire, The one
> thing everyone seemed to miss, is when you cross an electrical wire do
> so at a 90* angle/ perpendicular to it. Also allow if possible 1ft
> clearance. Do not run parallel to any electrical wire even if you do
> use conduit unless it has 1ft clearance.While this is certainly good practice, an occasional violation isn't going to cause failures. I've run experiments with Cat5 cables coiled around power cords, and have not been able to provoke an error.The main thing is to keep the cable away from any fluorescent fixtures and your occasional doorbell transformer.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Thanks Dan,I appreciate your thoughts and experience with this. As someone that has to guarantee that this will not happen, I stand behind my statements.While I agree, that the occasional violation more than likely will not cause a problem, I do not have the luxury of this possibility when cabling 10s of thousands of feet of Cat5e or Cat6 in a call center for 1000+ users and must certify every run. You are correct in regard to the fluorescent fixtures and any transformer, doorbell or otherwise.Still it is best practice to avoid parallel runs and non perpendicular crossovers within certain constraints as I stated.I hope you have a Great Holiday Season and God Bless.Sincerely,
Mike K
Actually, the 90 degree issue was brought up before, but it can't be mentioned too many times since a lot of people forget about it. At a right angle, it really doesn't need a foot of separation, but it won't hurt. IIRC, the NEC calls for plenum rated cabling in all commercial and municipal spaces, and a lot of states call for the same in residential in-wall installations.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."