hey all, this is my first post. i’m from australia. has any one fitted a “Gibcloser” spring action concealed door closer? how do they perform. wheres the best place to fit it, top, middle, bottom? does the long round section with the spring and chain go in the door or jamb? the door is 2040 high by 820 wide, is made from queensland red ceder, with 6 glass panes 2/3s of the door. i’m not concerned about the weight, the closer is rated to 150lbs (approx65kgs)
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dude,
i know we yanks speak the same language, but you are talkin greek today.
i've never seen one of these closers here in the states. seeing items like this still being manufactured on this planet really gives me renewed hope for local manufacturing industries.
i would probably put this closer on a sturdy portion of the door whether that is top or bottom.
i liked the first one that looks like a Soss hinge and closer combo.
cool stuff
http://www.locksonline.co.uk/acatalog/Door_Closers___Page_4.html
carpenter in transition
yea - they use "4be2s" down under too... (I'm not kiddin either :-))
Oz: sorry, I don't know anything about those. Got a web site or something that shows 'em?Matt
if you listen closely you can hear the silence as all the metric-loathing north americans try to work out what "2040 high by 820 wide" means.
Despite my snotty remarks I can't help you either. I haven't worked with this brand of closer; my experience has been with hydraulic closers and spring-equipped hinges.
thanks for the reply. just so you know this is an American product. or at least distributed by" Reilor limited, preston pr2 5ap, Reilor inc. Runnemede N.J. 08078" New Jursey i guess? the metric system is great, i can have 1 litre of pine cones! plus 1 litre of fresh water weighs 1 kg which is 1000cc and if you are driving a car it sounds faster 100mph = 161 kmh anyway 2040 is 6' 8 1/4" tall and 820 is 2' 8 1/4" wide this is our standard bedroom door size.
serg
Guess I should come clean and admit that I am an Aussie too, although I've lived in Canada for 15 years. I'm 42 and I still remember the changeover from imperial to metric when I was in primary school. So I guess you can say I'm biligual.
Canada is stuck in a goofy spot halfway converted to metric but seemingly unable to go forward or back. Temperatures are in celsius and road signs are in km, but most of the construction industry is still running feet and inches. However the building code is all metric, and any project with federal money involved will be metric too. I carry 3 tapes in my box - imperial only, metric only and dual-scale. I have metric and imperial framing squares, etc etc. I wish we would finish the job and go all metric as it is so much easier. And in the meantime we keep training new carpenters on the job in feet/inch, but at tech college their course is all in metric....
Sounds like you got some help with the closer, good luck.
Wally
Lignum est bonum.
I fled Canada and applied for political asylum in the States due to the metric changeover. Are 4'x8' sheets of plywood still sold in 17mm thickness?
Yeah I know, that's one of the things that makes me laugh. They stamp, say, 3/4" plywood with the metric size (19.5 mm in this case) but they are made to exactly 48" x 96".
But if they would make the change all the way to metric we'd all be better off. Calculations for stairs and rafters are sooo simple in metric. Being stuck in the middle like Canada is even sillier than the imperial weights and measure system itself.
WallyLignum est bonum.
I remember trying to compare gas prices with my brother who lived in the US. Imperial gallons and CDN $ to US gallons and US $. Not that was a task. When I started driving (I am 42 now) I think the price was .40 a litre, and about the same per gallon in the States. When did Australia go metric?
Early 70's. I remember it being a 5-year changeover. Sure a lot of people didnt like the process of change, but ask anyone if they'd go back now and there'd be 100% no's.Lignum est bonum.
Now that's funny--I don't care who you are--Larry the cable guyLOL
Ozerg
the long bit goes in the door ( can you bore straight?). If your door is Qld red cedar then you are probably best not to use one of these. ( your screws won't hold long in that soft stuff )
If your door has a 2/3rds glass then you are going to have trouble fitting it in the middle. that leaves the top or bottom. Given the amount of material you will be removing in a what? 35mm door less 16mm ?? for the hole? if you must use one then I'd bottom mount it. Better still, I'd not use one at all and go for a convential surface mount.
Regards
Mark
( Queensland )
http://www.quittintime.com
Dang! I've got one on my door to the basement.
I wouldn't really call them door closers. It just gets the door moving. If the door is open wide enough it will build enough speed to latch. I wouldn't worry about the screws pulling out, the gibcloser doesn't exert that kind of force. I don't think the mounting location would matter, although lubricating the hinges with graphite helps. Ball bearing hinges would be ideal, but that goes for any door closing device.