My grill has a 20 lbs.propane tank. I have a large propane tank for my house stove. Where can I get info on connecting to this tank and eliminating the small tank? I have done a fair amount of house plumbing.
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Welll, you might start by takingan EMT course
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Piffin Thanks, I already have those qualifications.
But I can't find any info. Lines fittings etc. on propane.
Barbeque supply has the fittings & a flex line like an air hose with the same kind of fittings.
Joe H
There is a reason the fittings are different and the info hard to come by.Calculating flow and pressure is not5 an ameture game. you need the right regulator in reference to the length and size of line and the presure in the source tank vs the pressure and flow neecxed at the appliance.
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reason the fittings are different and the info hard to come by
yep, a non-engineer DIY in the neighborhood burned down his house with a propane grill about 12 years ago.
BTW, DW saw the house next door burn/explode due to NG leak when she was a kid. Needless to say, we DO NOT have a propane grill, nor are we hooked up to the local NG main. Propane for oxy cutting relagated to the barn only.
Near where I'm from, in Lexington MA, a worker from the gas company apparantly mixed up two lines in the street. He accidently hooked up a high pressure line to a low pressure line and blew the regulator valves at a bunch of homes and filled the houses with lots o' gas. One blew up and others nearly did. The gas company had to go one by one to houses and do inspections before they could get their gas back on, in case their equipment was damaged. It took weeks, and cost the gas company lots of money.
Just finished plumbing the inside of my house for propane - converted the appliances - had the propane supplier come and check with inspection and leak test - passed with flying colors. Have used now for about 2 months. From someone who has constructed their own house from the foundation up over the past few years- there are few things that a knowledgeable DIY can not do. I got my EPA license so I could purchase and install the heat pump for instance. If good resources - the instructions in most cases - along with some help from seasoned experts such as the discussion board - there are very few things that a DIY cna not do. It just takes a lot more time - But the reward of doing it yourself and a successful job is great.
Also I would note - how many jobs have been bungled by pros. Living in the Boston area. recently we had a scaffolding fall and kill 3 individuals. I never heard that they were DIYs! Sorry to rant but I hear too many replies discouraging DIY. The reply should be read - read and read again - ask any questions that you need and then take your time and expect to take from 3 to 10 times as long as a pro that has done the task a thousand times.
What you did and succeeded at is far different from what is at handf here. The mix and match deal doesn't work safely, period.I agree about self learning and satisfaction from a job well done, but there are jobs wjhere life and limb are invilved that should not be attempted without full knowledge and if one has that, they need no offhand info from a forum - even such an August one as this." Sorry to rant but I hear too many replies discouraging DIY."
I didn't take this as a rant, but if you read most of my replies here, the only times I discourage DIYT is when they are putting themselves in a high potential danger situatuion
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You may also need to anchor the grill - we were/are planning to do this same thing, but the propane guy told me the barbecue will have to be chained and locked in its location, so you can't break the hose by moving the grill.
Since this has evolved into a safety discussion and I posted a "DW's neignbor's house blew up" post earlier, let me add:
If DW were not intrinsically adverse to gas or propane, I'd have done anything needed in own house with no fears, but also know own capabilities and would not even have asked.
Also as an option, one could set up to be able to refill the 5 gal and the 14.5 oz cylinders from the big tank. I have not bought a 14.5 oz propane bottle in decades, refill all from the 5g, also use the 5# for torch welding (all this out by the barn, not in the house near DW). (I do not resell any refilled 14.5 oz cylinders nor do I transport any across state lines <G>)
There is a few year old discussion in the archives about the different safe ways to refill propane bottles.
BTW, did you just get the EPA 609 or other? Was able to get by on the 609 for $25 test on the internet for HP work if no work done 'for hire'
BTW2: since the newer valves on the 5 gal tanks, I have gotten all my propane free for at least the last 4 years (about 10-15 gal a year) in 2-3 gal batches free in tanks at garage sales. Have a big manifold of 8 old propane tanks on air compressor in the shop - but that is a whole 'nother story on how to do safely.
Your quwstion is hard to answer. What does she use here tank for? Are you trying to just add anoter connection to your tank? Your large tank, is it a 1000 gal or 100 lb tank?
The tank is five feet high, two feet in diameter . It is near where the grill is. It has flexible copper line in the 3/8 to 1/2 inch diameter range. The fittings are compression. It looks like I could tee off of the line.
Sounds doable if you have a flaring tool. Just make sure the regulator at the tank is the same as required for the grill.Dealing with the low pressure side isn't that difficult.
Where can I get info?
Any of your local dist. of propane will sell you the proper fittings to do the job. It's no big deal.
Not here. Nothing past the 2nd regulator (tank side) is available (pigtails, regulators etc) We are being protected from ourselves.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
Find someplace that sells "propane and propane accessories" (Hank Hill, or your propane supplier) Basically what you will need to know is what the pressure is off the downstream side of your regulator. You can then get a regulator for that same pressure range. I'd recommend not using the existing regulator, so you can put a portable tank back on easily. A friend of mine has one set up this way, and he put on air couplers on a hose off of a T from the supply tank (probably not the way a professional would do it, but it works) so he can easily disconnect from his tank.
Unless you own the "big" tank, no-can - do, btdt w/o an inspection.
The locals kinda frown on the "big booms" from idiots playing hero to the cookout.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Damm, I miss that stuff
Did the same thing with my grill. Teed off from the main tank and have a quick connect at the grill. No more re-filling mini tanks. Though I don't think it is difficult to do yourself assuming you have a flaring tool and ensure leak proof connections, I did have the gas company do mine as part of a larger job.
I toyed with this idea a while back. Then I left the grill on one night and drained the little tank. I don't toy with this idea anymore.
Lee
Maybe I will call the LP company. I would like the "big bang theory" to apply only to evolution and not my house. Thanks for your imput.
Good idea. My propane supplier charges a flat $50 fee to connect almost anything. Hard to beat the price and they come well supplied with any odd fittings that may be needed.
Kevin, I think calling the pros for this is a good idea. However, for those who are inclined to try this for themselves, pay close attention to where "Tee" into the gas line occurs. Most propane systems for dwellings use a 10 pound intermediate pressure between the tank and house. There is a second regulator at the dwelling that further reduces the pressure to 11" water column. For a large grill I would recommend running the 10LB line over to the vicinity of the grill and reducing the pressure to 11" with a second regulator. (Don't try and use the regulator that comes with your grill). By using the second regulator you won't exceed the capacity of your house regulator. Include shutoff's at the point of "tee" and also on the secondary of regulator. Get in the habit of turning the valve off when not using the grill. That way if a valve accidently gets turned on by "little fingers" or the grill gets left on for an extended grate cleaning you won't use up a lot of LP or worse. Be sure to test the entire installation for leaks. Soapy water works, the pros will use a pressure drop gauge setup. Roger
Kevin,
Check out the photos of how I did this. When I had a new propane boiler installed in my basement, I ran a line from the two new 1000 tanks. Halfway across the yard I teed off and ran the other line to my back porch. These lines are now buried, of course. At porch, copper comes out of ground and I installed another T here with valves (see photo). One side runs to my grill, the other to my cooker. Hoses run directly to the regulators that came with the respective appliances, each requiring a different hookup (see photos). This is not rocket science, however, the local propane guy acted like I was re-inventing the wheel, and I had to show him photos of the regulators to get exactily the hookups I needed. Note the one for the grill is actually a valve salvaged off a small tank.
Why pay $4 or $5 a gallon for propane in the little tanks when use can use your big tank? Of course, be sure to turn it off!
Safety? I would guess that the accident rate for gas grills is way lower than for table saws. Not so sure about turkey fryers! Be safe.
Marc
The National Fuel Gas Code requires that all such work be done by a "Qualified Agency" ie a contractor who knows what he's doing. There's a good reason for this. If it's not done right, the results can be catastrophic. Do yourself a favor and pay a pro.