FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

connecting wires

xosder11 | Posted in General Discussion on November 22, 2005 03:43am

Ok this one should be easy, but for some reason I have heard two different things so I want to get it settled.  When connecting solid copper wires together, say your standard 14 or 12 guage, are you supposed to twist the wires first, or hold them side by side and twist the appropriate sized wire nut down over them.  I was told the second of teh two, but wasn’t sure if I got bad onfo on that or not.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. WayneL5 | Nov 22, 2005 04:34am | #1

    Many, perhaps most, electricians are taught to twist them.  The code says they should be installed according to manufacturer's instructions, which say to place them parallel.

    1. xosder11 | Nov 22, 2005 04:38am | #2

      I was just on another one of those "hokey" construction websites which stated that most pro electricians wrap every nut with electrical tape afterwards.  I feel like that is  bogus.  Don't electrical inspectors take that as a sign of trying to cover up exposed copper. 

      Edited 11/21/2005 8:40 pm ET by xosder11

      Edited 11/21/2005 8:42 pm ET by xosder11

      1. WayneL5 | Nov 22, 2005 04:47am | #3

        I don't know how electrical inspectors take tape.  Though my grandfather was an electrician and I picked up a lot, I'm not one by trade or training.  Occasionally I get a bit of copper showing a little too exposed at the base of a wire nut and I use a bit of tape in those few instances.  Tape is not a substitute for using the wrong size nut.

        I don't like working with wire nuts that have been taped all over because the tape must be cut off and it makes a gooey mess.

  2. cliffy | Nov 22, 2005 04:49am | #4

    About ten years ago I had a problem with a circuit in the house I was building.  Turned out the problem was a bad connection in a wire nut.  The manufacturer instructions were that the wires did not need to be pre-twisted so I had not.  After that incident I have pre-twisted every connection and I have not had another connection become loose.

    Have a good day

    Cliffy 

  3. User avater
    razzman | Nov 22, 2005 05:06am | #5

    I wouldn't even think of not twisting 12 or 14 gauge before the cap. Where's 4lorn?

     

    be asking for trouble

     

    'Nemo me impune lacesset'
    No one will provoke me with impunity

  4. 4Lorn1 | Nov 22, 2005 05:13am | #6

    Short answer is I twist them. Most every electrician I respect does the same.

    Long form answer for the less initiated:

    I almost always twist the conductors up before screwing on a wire nut. I feel this gives me the most control and helps prevent an number of potential problems. I strip the wires and twist them up. If it is only two or three I just hold the point where the insulation starts, not the tips which will be trimmed off one the joint is made, aligned and work it with Kleins.

    Be careful when twisting up different gauge conductors together. The smaller ones will try to do all the work and wrap around the larger, stiffer, one. This can mean the wire nut only directly grips the outer wire. The one in the center only being held by the clamping force transmitted through the surrounding wrapping. This leaves the center one subject to slipping out as the joint heat cycles and vibrates with changing loads. Try for a more egalitarian structure where thick and thin, weak and strong all get deflected equally.

    If there are more I twist two or three together and then lay any additional conductors in so they align smoothly with the original set. Be aware that while a 1/2" stripped is adequate for two or three wires as you need to lay in more you need more length. Plan on something close to a full inch, sometimes a bit more, with seven or eight #12s. Easier to have excess which is easily trimmed off than to find out half way into a connection your shy an eighth of an inch on a conductor you have already made up.

    Once made up trim the joint square. All of the conductors should have the insulation starting at the same spot in the connection, no insulation caught in the wirenut spring and no shiners, bare copper hanging below the rest. All the conductors should have full contact from down with the insulation all the way to where they get squared off. None of them only catching a bit of the joint. Once cut, particularly with more conductors, use your Kleins to squeeze the bundle where you just cut a bit. Squeeze cross ways to the direction of the cut to restore the bundle to a cylindrical cross-section. This makes the wire nut go on much more evenly and smoothly.

    Make up the wire nut firmly and inspect the joint for shiners. Gently but firmly tug each wire to make sure it wants to stay in. Get used to that sequence and it becomes automatic. Mostly muscle memory. Done well you can have a lot of confidence in the connections you make.

    Of course the manufacturers claim and rate their wirenuts being made up without the wires being twisted. Seen a lot of those fail. Twisting them up is old school and makes me feel more confident in the connections I make up. When customers start calling the wire nut manufacturers when the circuit fails at 2AM and they cover the recalls my view might shift.

    On the up side I have never seen a advisory from a wirenut manufacturer that says you positively can't twist up the wires. They just say twisting isn't necessary. Electricians have been using wire nuts and twisting the wires for something like 80 years. Of course wire nuts have improved some in that time so not twisting them won't vastly increase your time in purgatory.

    1. pm22 | Nov 22, 2005 05:49am | #7

      Very thorough good post Mr. Lorn.

      The only thing I would differ is that I trim them off at an angle rather than "straight". Actually a couple of angles -- think of it as a cone. This makes it easier to start the nut.

      ~Peter

      Note-- I learned this on the Internet so it must be true. Bless Al Gore for inventing this source of wisdom and knowledge.

    2. xosder11 | Nov 22, 2005 06:18pm | #8

      Thank you everyone, and especially 4lorn1 for such a detailed response. That was exactly the type of answer I was looking for. I will twist rvery connection I make...from now on. Question being, in your honest opinion would you go back and redo a bunch of connections you already made? I did some work in one room and now I wonder if I should take a weekend day and redo my connections. For the record, I twisted the nuts of very tightly, made sure to tug each wire, no shiners correct size nuts for number ad guage of connectors, corectly sixed boxes. all of that. Good clean connections, just not twisted. I did my reasearch. but I diddn't twist connections because none of the books I read or the wire nut instructions told me to do so. What I should have done is gone on this forum earlier because nothing beats experience. Anyway, the connections I now am most worried about are in j-boxes where there are 4#12 and 1# 14 conductors twisted together under gray wire nuts (the greatest number of conductors under a single connection) . The connections seemed very solid (I could not pull one loose) but I had honestly never considered heat expansion or contraction working them loose or deflection for that mattter. Maybe I'll just redo those. Is it necessary?Edit: holy crap. I just re-read my own post and did I really say "twisted under gray wire nuts." I meant not twisted. Hense the whole reason for this discussion in the first place. Maybe that is a sign that they should be twisted.

      Edited 11/22/2005 11:49 am ET by xosder11

      1. DanH | Nov 22, 2005 06:58pm | #9

        A lot depends on the type of wire nut. My guess is that the soft ones with the spiral spring insert will handle temperature swings better than the hard ones with no insert.
        If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

        happy?

        1. xosder11 | Nov 22, 2005 08:40pm | #11

          Yes, they were definetly the ones with the spiral spring insert and i'll tell you that those things had a death grip on those wires. On one just as a test I pulled with some force and was unable to pull any free. 4lorn makes a good point in mentioning the stranded wire wraping itself around the solid wire and the solid wire being able to slide out because it was only being held in by compression. This makes me wonder if a similar situation can occur with say 5 solid 12 guage wires under one nut screwed over the conductors with them parallel. there is a chance that one of the wires may get caught in the middle and not make any contact with the actual threads of the wire nut, but rather just be held into the assembly through compression. Similarly, this conductor could slip out. At least it would seem to me.

          1. DanH | Nov 22, 2005 09:59pm | #12

            With five (or more) wires, untwisted, you do tend to have one wire in the middle, not caught by the nut's threads. I personally try to avoid more than four wires.

            If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

            happy?

          2. MikeHennessy | Nov 22, 2005 10:16pm | #13

            It it was me, I'd let it go. If you tightened them as you say, and tested them, I'd think that the chance of them working loose is small with the spring-type nuts. As for stranded wire, an inspector once told me to leave the stranded wire (such as often found in a light can, for example) a bit longer than the others. That way, it gets grabbed first and gets jammed into the top portion of the nut and is held in place by the solid wires that follow it. I've done that ever since and have never had any problem with stranded wires, even when they are a significantly lighter guage than the feeder wires.

            Mike Hennessy

      2. DanH | Nov 22, 2005 07:04pm | #10

        (I personally hate wirenuts. Why don't they make boxes with fixed screw-clamp terminal strips in them? A white 6-slot strip, a black 3-slot strip, and a red 3-slot strip could be fit rather nicely in the back of a standard 2x4 box. Use allen-head screws designed to work with a ball-end allen wrench, for easiest operation.)

        If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

        happy?

      3. 4Lorn1 | Nov 23, 2005 02:16am | #14

        Re: ..."would you go back and redo a bunch of connections you already made? "Hmmm. Depends. My advice would be to avoid a decision for a bit and make up some the rest of the connections with your new found skills. When you get done you will have a feel to make the comparison. If you look back at the previous batch and with careful examination and consideration find them wanting in any great way then redoing them would be the way to go. If, on the other hand, you find them to be reasonably and functionally acceptable, even if not as refined or perfect as you may like, then let them ride. It is a judgment call.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Picture-Perfect Pergola

Built from locally sawn hemlock, this functional outdoor feature uses structural screws and metal connectors for fast, sturdy construction.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • Design and Build a Pergola
  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?
  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data