Howdy from frigid Maine,
Our new baby came last week so I have a good excuse not to be working today. Temp’s were 10-30 degrees below zero this morning!
I am preparing to build my house this spring and I’m going pneumatic. I’ve been working in construction and remodeling for several years now and I’ve always used 8d framing nails for all floor, wall and roof sheathing on a house. I was reading up on construction staplers, the sort one uses to put up cedar shakes, and the catalog said that the stapler was good for sheathing too. My experience with shakes and staples is that the staples REALLY grab the wood making removal a serious chore. I’d think that a 2″ staple would hold 1/2 to 3/4″ sheathing just fine but I haven’t found anyone who has done this. Anyone used a stapler for this application?
Also, anyone used the Paslode Gas charged siding stapler? Any good? The idea of hoseless siding work is very appealing.
Replies
Everyone here uses 8d ringshanks in their guns for sheathing, but I would imagine the staples would be just as good or maybe better. Have you compared costs?
Here it's 50/50, personal preference. Either is allowed, same nailing pattern applies to both. I *think* minimum staple length is 2" for wall sheathing. You are right in the perception. They grab well.
" To the noble mind / Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" - Wm Shakespeare, Hamlet, III,i,100
Go with your stapler you'll love it. Not only is the staple gun lighter and easier to use a box of staples is a 10,000 count. I switched several years ago and never look back. I also believe they hold better, It is just taking the engineers a while to catch up.My current job called for 8d nailing on all wall sheathing. I asked the G.C. to check with the engineer and he OK'd 2 1/2 " staples on 6" centers. I never compared the price difference because I don't care but I think it is nominal.
I've only found guns that shoot 2" staples. What kind shoots 2 1/2" staples?
BTW Thanks for everyone's input. I'll definitely give stapling the sheathing a try. Woo-hoo, no more ring shanks!
Edited 2/15/2003 4:32:22 PM ET by FC
sorry about that FC must have a typo. I have a paslode.
We use both, but I would recomend the stapler cause it's more versitile. We use are stapler for wall sheeting, wood siding, shingles, sub floor overlay( not sub floor)and side wall shingles.
I never found a gas charge gun that hasn't been more trouble than it's worth.
good luck
We've been using 7/16" staples for wall and roof sheathing for several years now - 2" for securing to 2x framing, 1+1/2" for securing to I-joists. I think they are way better than pneumatically driven nails because the crown of the staple stops at the sheathing, instead of penetrating like the head of a nail often will. Great tool for nailing off vinal underlayment, too. Still nail off subfloors by hand, though.
Check out the Senco stapler - sewing machine smooth, like a Mercedes Benz.
I think the biggest problem with staples is perception.
People don't want a house that is "stapled" together.
Several companies used to make framing staplers, but they were mainly used by pallet makers and "trailer" home factories and hence got a bad rep.
Actually though they performed better than nails in shear, withdrawal, and pull thru tests.
Also A LOT of flooring installers have switched to staplers, and if they were causing callbacks this would end in a heartbeat.
We used to staple wall sheathing but some supers insisted on nails. One explained that it was for visibility, Staples tend to "disappear" from the road, and HO's would wonder if we were skimping on fasteners.
JMNSHO
T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
I've used both the Paslode framing nailer and the finishing nailer. I wouldn't buy either again. They are way too finicky (sic). You spend too much time trying to get them to fire. Unfortunately, pnuemantic is still the way to go.