i need to install interior doors without any casing, where the drywall wraps around the corner of the door opening and butts into the jamb.
does anyone have any experience with this. i believe the width of the jamb should be as small as possible, which is the thickness of the door plus the thickness of the stop.
i assume that without casing to help anchor the jamb into the framing, i should shim and nail the jamb more frequently than normal, especially on the hinge side.
thanks for any tips.
Replies
mb, Remember when you set the jamb to leave enough room by the barrel of the jamb for your returns. And maybe figure a long strike for the latch side so the latch doesn't booger up the return.
Another potential problem, the door will only open "so far" when you recess the jamb into the opening, if that's what you are intending on doing.
Find Tear-away "L" bead for the returns so you have a nice crisp mud line.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
hey cal, have you done this? What I'm visualizing doesn't look cool at all. Plus, like someone mentioned, that hinge jamb is gonna move...what about PLing it (adhesive) along with the screws?And what about a good pizzed off slam?<G> "what's in a name?" d'oh!
Holly, have done a variation on the theme.
Designers are alway right.
P.I.A.
And then some.
The rabbit with it dying behind the jamb, like when you stuff sheetrock in a commercial preset drywall frame. Now that's not hard and probably stands the best chance of no call back.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
The rabbit with it dying behind the jamb, like when you stuff sheetrock in a commercial preset drywall frame. Now that's not hard and probably stands the best chance of no call back.Yep, did that once in a stock brokerage house. Out of cherry, it did look nice.Hey, you get those pics yet? "what's in a name?" d'oh!
Yes, we got them ystdy. Thank you! Sorry I didn't let you know.
Sort of caught up in the end of the regular season.
And finally, 3 pars in a wed nite 9. Jeez, what happened to summer.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
all right, now show Jim how to look at them<G>3 pars? Doode, when are you going pro? "what's in a name?" d'oh!
Blodgett?
OK Jim, stick the disc on the drink holder (remove the drink). Close drink holder. Some swirling thing appears on the screen. Soon, a file opens. Open that file. Wah Lah, pics.
Did I mention the 2 sevens...............Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Did I mention the 2 sevens...............all right, competition...it's those danged snowmen that kill me<G> "what's in a name?" d'oh!
Luckily no flurries that round.
Sorry to the original poster for this diversion, best of luck on your project.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I've visited homes under construction in Phoenix, where this technique of wrapping jambs with wall finish and dying into the doorframe is done.
Special doorframe stock is used, maybe 1-1/4 thick, and the face is rabbeted to receive the finish.
The houses I saw it in were high end, and the doors all 1-3/4 thick. Frankly, I don't see how you could do it even with 1-3/8 doors, without framing interior walls in 2x6s.
You are correct, sir. In Phx there are two methods. One has the drywall extending fairly close to the jamb and the corner bead goes between the jamp and drywall. A more popular method is to have all windows and doors jambs kerfed with a 1/4" router bit. The corner bead then extends from the drywall to inside the kerf. It is easiest to have the kerf cut before the installation of the window or door.
Mark
I worked in a house that had the full jamb with the sheetrock meeting it with a simple dado.
Picture attached
Doug
Stinger,i'm in Phoenix too and have seen completed homes with this detail. when you say there is a thick casing with a rabbit, do you mean that a thin
strip of drywall is placed in the rabbit and then topped with corner bead?the other method i think has been discussed is where a kerf is cut into the edge of the jamb and the cornerbead is inserted into the kerf.since this detail (at least one or the other) is used in some production homes in the valley, there must be a millwork supplier that provides the stuff.
Beat the jacks as plumb as possible. If the shim space is more than a quarter, tack in a strip of quater ply. Shim the jamb true, tack with nails and then follow with trim screws. Make sure the hinges and strike are fully shimmed without space behind. Run at least one three inch hinge screw in each hinge, more is better. Opening and closing will twist the jamb cracking it from the drywall so you want to minimize its movement. Zip-bead makes a clean joint, caulk the bead well to give it flex b/w rock and wood.
I did a door in the house I'm building now this way. I Srewed metal j track (in the drywall corner bead section. Then i slipped the half inch drywall in and the taper muded to the steel. Worked well.
Shims and nails are cheap don't be shy.
Have a good day
Cliffy
mb66,
Here in San Diego, the drywall houses sell special bullnose corner bead that is asymmetrical. One side has the normal nailing flange, the other flange is shorter and intended for insertion in kerfed jambs. Your jambs are the same width as your studs. (1x4 D pine for 2x4 walls with 5/8" drywall.) I kerfed my jambs with a 7-1/4" Marathon blade in the tablesaw, to get the thin kerf. A slotting cutter in the router table would be even easier.
After the rock was up, I caulked the kerfs with Big Stretch white acrylic caulk, set the bead, stapled into position on the wall, and sponged the excess caulk away. This detail helps support the jamb just like casing does when properly nailed off. Using 4" hinges on 1-3/8" doors gets the barrels far enough out.
This detail was used in the 1930's, and I copied it from a very nice local home because I like the clean look. The modern corner bead with caulk makes a stronger detail than what the old plaster guys did. No cracking after 2+ years, and the jambs were centered in the RO's. Shims at hinges and single 3" screws are a good choice; all the hinge screws can catch a stud, if needed!
Bill
Bill,this sounds like my solution. i need square cornerbead; i hope i can find it (an asymetrical version). what is the size of the "short" leg, probably about 3/4". also, where do you place the kerf? (how far from the edge of the jamb stock). i suppose you wouldn't want any radius on the jamb either.
mb,I do not know if they make the kerf-insertable stuff in square. What you want is like ell-metal, with a short leg on the ell about 5/16" longer than the drywall thickness. You won't want to mud the return, only the part that planes out on the wall.The stuff I used had a short leg about 3/8" past the curve of the bullnose, and it had a hem, so was double thickness at that edge for better stiffness. I kerfed my jambs so that 3/8" thickness was showing after bead insertion. This gives plenty of room for hinges and strike plates, and matched the reveal on the stop molding I used. 1/8" radius maximum on jambs, for durability. Anything bigger will look wrong at the hinges and latch, and weaken hinges.If you roll your own solution, bear in mind that the outer hinge screws will likely interfere with the bead's inserted flange. Predrill. Too deep a kerf makes a weakened jamb edge. In any case, go to a big drywall house and ask about kerf-inserted bead. Good luck on the project.Bill
Edited 9/30/2005 2:38 am ET by BillBrennen