Hi Everybody,
I often see modern-looking wood siding, with vertical boards spaced about 1/4″ apart – flat against the wall. Sort of board-and-batten without the batten. Do anyone know the detail for this? I imagine horizontal furrings @ 2′ OC, but how to avoid them being visible through the cracks? And is it a pain to get boards that are straight enough, because small inaccuracies would be very visible? I am planning to use local (dried) hemlock (can’t afford cedar) but I am afraid of running into problems. If you could share any experience with this I would appreciate it!
Replies
I've used a lot of Eastren Hemlock in my building projects. Be sure to use an air nailer to fasten the stuff down. I have had no splitting problems with 15 gauge nails from a boststich finish nailer. It paints well and also is very nice oiled.
I've used a lot of eastern hemlock in my building projects. It does look good, paints well or with a clear finish. I can't help you with your specific task but would caution you to use an air nailer to fasten the stuff down. It does split easily with common nails. I've used a 15 gauge Bostich with excellent results.
Thank you for your advice
I've done it with cedar, nailed with a ring shank nail to a beveled cleat screwed to the wall. Wall was T-111 but any exterior grade plywood would do. Paint it flat black and it will disappear.
Be sure to nail the hemlock well. It likes to twist like crazy as it dries.
"This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
And I'm a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.--Dieselpig
Thank you for your advice
There is actually a reverse board and batten used.
Battens applied first , then the boards.
Same materials etc.
Good idea,
Thank you
i have never done it before but when i was working at a high end residential architecture firm we detailed vertical siding that had reveals. we used a shiplap joint between the two boards with horizontal battens behind. it is good to leave gaps between the battens or use a 3d matrix behind them to allow the hemlock to breath.
Thank you for your input.
I assume then that this was not rough boards but milled to include a shiplap rabbet between the boards? I want to use rough boards, but I am worried about insects taking up residence behind the boards because the siding is not "closed".
i think someone mentioned the board over batten technique. this would close up the vertical gapping. corravent is now making a vent specifically for rain screen walls. it is about 3/4" x 2" and comes in a roll or long strips. staple some insect screen (about 10"wide ) or so to the bottom of your sheathing and wrap the corravent in it. this will provide ventilation and good insect protection for the lower gapping. you can do the same thing at the top of the wall to get great ventilation. lots of extra work but it should keep the baords straight and dry.
I've always thought the Cor-A-Vent products were very good offering many options for all of those venting situations that come along. However, I find that not too many contractors in Chicago and the surrounding area will go and find the Cor-A-Vent products speced. Even when given the list of suppliers, I don't understand the reluctance. Can anybody shed some light on this for me?
i wish i could help you out. i work in rhode island and it seems most of my lumber yards carry the whole line or they can at least order it with a few days lead time. maybe there is another product available. ask around and let me know if you find anything. thanks in advance.
Dealers and distributers didn't used to like cora-vent because the manufacturer refused to give them big price discounts. The wholesalers and retailers pushed the products they got the breaks from.
Cora-vent is usually priced above the competition for that reason , people buy onprice unless it it one of those items that only one manufacturer has.