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I READ IN SOME OF THE DISCUSSIONS HERE THAT SOME GUYS USE A 4″ GRINDER TO MAKE A COPE JOINT. I TRIED IT BUT I MUST BE USING THE WRONG WHEEL–DOES ANYONE KNOW A DIFFERENT TYPE OF WHEEL THAT WORKS BETTER ON WOOD? ALL THE STOCK WHEEL DID WAS BURN THE WOOD AND GRIND REAL SLOW.THANKS FOR ANY HELP
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I had a guy who used to work for me do the grinder thing, but it seemed to me he took a very long time to get a cut you could have done easier with a regular coping saw.
*A former co-worker of mine used to use one of those Porter-cable paint removers for scribing and certain copes. Those carbide disks remove material in a hurryand dont burn or clog. BTW this guy was an excellent carp not a hack by any means. Some people turn their noses up to using a grinder for finish work, but if it does the job what the heck!In short, whatever works for you.Mr T
*Not a grinder disc. Use a sanding disc backer with a coarse grit sanding disc, 32 grit is a good starting point. Coarser gets you there faster, with some sacrifice of smoothness in the finished edge. Only perform this outdoors.
*A Bosch mini belt sander works pretty good.
*Dremel tool with a sanding drum is the key for me. Fast, easy to handle, and does a great job.James DuHamel
*Bosch makes a mini sander? I have been using an old (10 years) Skil Sandcat, 2.5x16 belt sander for years. Had to steal it back from my dad recently. The trick is to do your 45 on the saw then "fine tune" the cope with the sander.
*I've done it on the table saw w/the blade extended, side to side motion. Fine tune w/rasps. Sounds like Dremel or die grinder would be a lot faster and more accurate. -Ken
*Pat, buy a DeWalt scroll saw. tilt the table, use a spiral blade. makes the best cope ive ever seen. and i've seen a lot of 'em. By the way I am a tool junkie. I think I have em all. I even have the bosch angle finder. It is specifically for crown. It, like me is the greatest. (at least i think so)Keep up the good work, Leigh
*Pat- You are correct, sir! Scroll saw w/spiral blade is the best- as long as you can get it on the table! -Ken
*Isn't that a little tough with a 16 footer? Or do you always splice with a short piece by the cope?John
*I use a portable band saw.Either that or a coping foot on my jig saw(kidding 'bout the band saw)gb
*I have a really neet tool that does a wonderful job!Its called a coping saw! Costs < 10$, cheap replacement blades, cordless, fast enough and as accurate as the user is skilled. Perfect tool for the job.It aint broke so I aint fixin it! ;)Mr Trim
*Tim Kline got it--course grit sanding disk with the rubber backer. Takes a little practice to get good at it, but once you do it's very fast and accurate. Coping saws work too:)
What I've used is a die grinder with a carbide burr. A "pinecone" shaped burr for aluminum works great. Just cut joint to 45 deg., relieve all but a thin lip at the face, just like coping.
angle grinder with abrasive disk works great , use your jigsaw to cut most of waste material away leaving 1/8 -1/16" to be ground off. quick,fast,accurate, no burn.
Are you still using a screwdriver for that? I've been using a torch with great speed and accuracy...you know, considering the char and all. It's a distressed look.
...that's not a mistake, it's rustic
A four or four and a half inch angle grinder is the only way to cope
moldings. The only thing to use is a sanding disk---it won't matter
what grit--just use a backing disk which most come with. You should
be able to cut exactly on the line you want in less that thirty seconds. I think I heard of this years ago in FineHomebuilding and won't do it any otherway now. People that ridiculed me when first seeing me do this wound up buying their own and use them for all sorts of tight fitting joints.