coping short pieces of trim on bandsaw

Recently I bought a small bandsaw light enough to carry on site (parquet floor install — easiest way to cut the wood tiles — I found a 30 pound saw for around $100 at harbor freight and bought for just that job, but it didn’t die yet). It’s a piece of crap, but works well enough and it’s so light that now I bring it everywhere. Haven’t tried using it to cope short pieces yet (like a few feet and less), but I will.
Anyone try this? Tips, tricks, am I nuts?
Thanks.
“Let’s get crack-a-lackin” — Adam Carolla
Replies
Never coped on a bandsaw, but I have on a tablesaw.
Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
Never coped on a bandsaw, but I have on a tablesaw.
Hey Andy, how did you do that and how did it work out? Sounds like it could be dangerous, but what isn't.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
I ran the blade all the way up, clamped a slotted 2x4 over it as a guard so that only the front of the blade was exposed, and coped away using the blade sort of like a grinding wheel. The curve of the blade automatically backcuts the molding. It worked OK for hardwood crown, and felt safe to me. It would have been easier if I'd removed the side extension so that I could stand closer to the blade and work from the side.Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
If you are trying to do inside miters, I would use a coping saw, as you can back cut it.
Regards,
Scooter
"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I would think, since you need to "back cut" a cope just a bit, that it would work if you have a thin enough blade and can tilt the table a bit.
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I'll definitely tilt the table.
I have to try it -- just feel compelled for some reason. I've already been using the "little bandsaw that could" for pieces that need to fit under or around things (for example was just working on base that needed to butt a cast iron baseboard radiator that had no end caps -- easy to notch with paper thin precision for the pipes and other projections with the bandsaw, but again the pieces were short (small room)). There is never any tear out or splintering, so it does a good job (a little better than a jig saw) and it's very easy to do.
I'm running crown in the same small room either later this week or next (soon as I can get to it), so I have my "test subject." I'm also thinking I can't be the first one to have thought of this and that always leads to think there must be a reason people don't do it. ;-)
I'll try to post pics of success or failure.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Edited 4/10/2006 9:36 am ET by philarenewal
There is a tool out that you can use with a jigsaw to cope crown molding with plenty of undercut. It is easy to learn. Check it out at http://www.easycoper.com
Hi Haley, thanks very much for the post. I do know how to cope with a jig saw, but I've got a new toy that comes on site and want to play with it before it breaks.
I have a bigger bandsaw in my shop, but I have to disassemble it to move it so it doesn't travel with me. So I got a cheap bandsaw that I can carry with one hand and now I'm like a kid in a candy store with it trying to find ways to use it. I paid about $100 for it (harbor freight) so I suspect it will last about a month (already broke one blade and stripped a screw in soft metal while aligning the guides for the new blade -- a lot of it is thin stamped metal parts, but it does cut wood like a bandsaw should).
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla