I’m working with friends to renovate a pub they’ve bought, and they’re determined to do a copper-topped bar (don’t bother suggesting they do something else; the copper has been bought). I’ve read the archive discussions, but most deal with kitchen applications where heat and cleaning issues factor in. I’d be grateful for any input on experiences anyone has had out there with such a project, but I’m primarily looking for feedback on a few aspects. What would be the best adhesive (substrate is cabinet-grade maple plywood)? What are the options for sealing a surface that just needs to fend off splashed beverages and the occassional dropped cigarette? Is a brake of any use on a somewhat irregular shape, or should we just glue it down and bend it as best we can in place? (I’ve suggested they bullnose the edge rather than try for a crisp crease over a sharp corner, for comfort as well as looks.) Finally, what would be the best filler for the few spots in the maple plywood substrate that need smoothing out (I thought Bondo might work well)? Thanks for any help you can offer!
John in Pittsburgh
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Here's the best I can offer you. On a chain of restaurants called Rib Crib. started in Tulsa, they use both a copper topped serving area and a copper topped bar on the restaurants that have a true bar. I've worked on over a half dozen of these places now.
They do not treat the copper in any way except for the occasional cleaning with a regular non abrasive type copper cleaner. Durability is exceptional with this application. They are constantly sliding plates from the kitchen to the servers on the other side of this counter and there no appreciable scratches to be found even after a couple years of hard commercial use.
Go with a crisp crease over the edges. The only place you need to seal is where there is either a cut in the copper itself or a seam, but you should not have any seams. There are actual corner pieces made for these applications along with copper rivets. To seal any edges that may be exposed to liquid, use silicone caulk and wipe off any excess immediately. If you e-mail me I'll give you a neat little trick for not getting silicone all over, especially where you don't want it, the caulk will be noticeable only if you look hard for it.
We never used cabinet grade plywood for material, but the plywood we did use just had regular construction adhesive beaded out and then we flattened the copper sheet in place to spread the adhesive with some weight(we used another piece of plywood and some cinder blocks to spread weight uniformly.
I'll try and find a website that offers the corners and rivets for you,....hope this helps....
use a brake for making the edges nice and sharp, don't try and do it freehand, it'll look bad IMO...
If you aren't one of the one's I'm talking about,you shouldn't have any complaints....
BTW..if you do your corners and creases right, and then file down any sharp edges smooth, you can drag a womans stocking over the pieces and it won't catch. Just take your time with the file and feel your way through this....
If you aren't one of the one's I'm talking about,you shouldn't have any complaints....
My coworker has done dozens of tables this way for a bar.
Here is his method. Break a C channel with a 1/2 " hem in the top ...wrap your substrate with this..a few nails on the bottom is all that you need.
Take yer top pc. of sheet copper and bend a 1/2" lock or hem on it to mesh with the C channel..leave all the locks slightly open as you apply the top. A small wonder bar ( we callem "weenie bars" will come in hhandy)...
Mallet or flat block and pound the seams tite..all done.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Good advice so far.
I want add that I glue mine down with contact adhesive, same as for 'formica' tops.
I also made my own corner and trim pieces, and I made my folds by hand, looks great.
I added a 3/4 x 1.5 " cleat at the front of the counter and rolled/formed the copper over it, and fastened it from the bottom of the cleat with copper brads.
This stuff is durable, man.
The heck, you say?
Photo?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Unfortunately, that was in my pre-digital days, I did take photos, I wonder where they are?
That counter was in a log home I built about a year ago, I need a bunch of pictures of it, it is a showpiece- the bar top was done in slate, the bathroom vanity has a one-piece top of sealed sandstone.
You can look down on the kitchen from the loft above, so I even placed copper in the cavities on top of the upper cabinets.
Details,details.
:)The heck, you say?
if there is a dishwasher/glass cleaner under the bar at any point, you should think about something to seal the plywood/substrate above. Those things give off a good amount of steam.
An old/scrap piece of formica or an extra piece of the copper.
I just did this and would be glad to share the photos but I'm the only guy in the western hemisphere without a digital camera. I'll post later with the pics. Use A/B or C ply. I used contact cement but found that you need several coats on the ply because it was so absorbent. Sand off the lacquer that comes on the copper on the side you plan to glue down. Plop another sheet of ply on top with weight until you have good adhesion.
I used homemade brake on the piece and bent it with a rubber mallet for a sharp edge. Fold the edges and use shears like wrapping a package. I used copper nails on the edge then "folded" &/or pounded the underside to complete the wrap. The advice above about the corners is true; with gentle filing you can achieve very smooth corners. All of this depends on what gauge copper you are using though. Mine was 1/16 inch.
So far it looks very good and hot objects don't bother it and I'm not OC so I don't give a RA about scratches and discoloration.