*
Considering purchasing house with well. House is 20 years old, built on slab, has copper plumbing pipe and in area of high mineralization. Some people say “that is a diaster waiting to happen. Minerals will invariably corrode all that pipe. Others say if it has been OK for 20 years, it is most likely OK. Which is truth?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Fine Homebuilding's editorial director has some fun news to share.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Considering purchasing house with well. House is 20 years old, built on slab, has copper plumbing pipe and in area of high mineralization. Some people say "that is a diaster waiting to happen. Minerals will invariably corrode all that pipe". Others say if it has been OK for 20 years, it is most likely OK. Which is truth?
*
Stephanie,
Go back to the first page and hit "Add Discussion". Post your message there and you will rec. answers. You're buried in this copper panel in the shower area.
I lived in an old house with some copper and much galv. pipe. Most of the corrosion was in the galv. pipe and the screens in the faucets. Copper wasn't a problem. I would think you'd be ok. esp at 20 yrs old. What's the doomsayers alternative. Plastic or a bucket by the creek?
If the copper is in the slab, and you're afraid, then don't buy it. Accessability helps alot of people sleep better at nite. Best of luck.
*for the copper shower you would want to lock seam the panels and then solder or seal with a gutter sealant(kalbar). i would not cut into the tile but let the copper overhang the tile by atleast 2" then pin the copper to the grout with a p.k. nail (a specialized masonry nail) then seal with the kalbar. I'm not sure the glue idea is a good one though---use copper nails and drop a bead of solder or the kalbar sealant on the head. at present i am building a shower similar to what you seem to want to have. being a tin knocker i have to have a bit of copper in every room to show off my handy-work you know.
*
Removing copper tarnish is easy! My company, Plating Technologies has come up with a non-toxic spray or paste that will eliminate the toughest of tarnishing. It comes in a wide variety of volumes and is guaranteed to clean any copper canopy, roof, shower or gutter you may have. If you are interested you may call (810) 978-1825 or visit our web site at platingtechnologies.com The contact for this and all PTI products is Bill Coffie.
*
I am thinking about installing copper for the sides of my shower, while maintaining it's original tile base(which is in good shape). I was thinking of gluing the copper to the existing tile, cutting a slot in the base around the perimeter for the copper to fit into,and then grouting it in. Does anybody have any suggestions on this? Does this sound like a disaster waiting to happen?
*If you decide to do it, I would give thought of not running the copper into the base. Maybe stay up a tile or so and figure a way to flash it in for a good seal to the wall. Best of luck.
*Green stains?
*How do you plan to clean this thing? Chemicals will do wierd things. Abrasives will make it look like crap. The only way to make it look nice is to polish it regularly. I hope you have a maid.
*Considering purchasing house with well. House is 20 years old, built on slab, has copper plumbing pipe and in area of high mineralization. Some people say "that is a diaster waiting to happen. Minerals will invariably corrode all that pipe. Others say if it has been OK for 20 years, it is most likely OK. Which is truth?
*
Don't know about a shower. But while traveling in Central Calif we saw a restaurant that had a copper trough type urinal. Was told it had been there for over 20 years. Looked fine with no stains, etc. So apparently copper is durable and not a high maintenance item.
The problem is where to stop to have a no-leak joint with the shower base. I wouldn't glue because the copper and tile will expand and contract differently and probably end up cracking something. Doing a good seal job, then pinning, then caulking again would probably be your best bet.