In the tool review article on cordless impact drivers, the author seems to put a lot of emphasis on being able to stand the tool upright on its battery when not in use. Is that really an issue for anyone?
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I think it's kinda nice to be able to stand a tool up like that. But it's not that big of a deal.
Are you talking about an article in FHB, or what?
Bumpersticker: If you can read this, I can hit my brakes and sue you.
Right, the article in the July FHB by Gary Katz. Nice article, sounds like a useful tool. But it struck me that he seemed to grade the tool by its stand-up ability.
I was wondering about that too. He didn't explain why they stay on the screw and not strip the head. I was wonding about that too.
Tom
It is important if you're reaching for the tool all day long, and you'd rather set it down than hang it from your belt.
I'd been thinking of gettignan impact driver for some time, and Gary's article pushed me over the edge. I got a Makita 12V w/2.6 A-H battery. Not one of the ones he reviewed, but similar. I could not believe Makita's line of impact drivers--at least 15 different models.
I've put to to use and it's amazing. Driving 1/4 by 2 1/2 inch sheet metal screws into pressuretreated lumber. First one I pre drilled out of force of habit. Then I just started to let 'er rip, and in they went. And these were phillips head (#3). No prob with stripping out.
I think whenever I can I'll use square-drive screws with the driver. But a good quality phillips will work.
If you do much fastening with screws and want to make things go faster and easier, try an impact driver.
Cliff
I guess my thought was, when I put down a tool like a cordelss drill, I usually lay it on its side so that it won't fall over. I would think that there would be too much opportunity to set it (the impact driver) down on a slightly unlevel surface, or on a piece of trash or scrap, and have it fall over when I took my hand away. Unless I were working at a bench, I would always be looking at where it was setting down, rather than simply laying it down within easy reach. Anyway, FWIW I wasn't being critical of the author, just curious if others shared his ideas.
I remember hearing somewhere (probably someone extolling the merits of square drive vs. phillips, either of which are way better than the screw head type that I despise... the flathead screw... anyways) that the original design of the phillips head was to prevent unskilled labor from stripping the heads by over tightening. The bit would cam out before breaking off the head. Now we have impact drivers that allow us to drive lags without pilot holes. The facts say that a properly drilled pilot hole (and clearance hole in the piece being fastened) is much stronger than one that is simply rammed in there. CAP, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that you were being sloppy by not using a pilot hole, but I think we all need to remember that there's a limit to what technology can do for us. I would hate to hear of carpenters installing 1/2" lags that are holding up a beam without drilling pilot holes just because they can do so with an impact gun. This is something that I've been thinking about since I read the article.
Jon Blakemore
Edited 7/13/2002 12:26:57 AM ET by Jon Blakemore
If I remember correctly it was henry ford's assembly line with the model a or t that first introduced the philips head for the reasons you mentioned.Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.
I'm all for the "right way" but when we tried drilling pilot holes for all our nails when framing a house once, we found it took just to entirely long.
Keith,
Would you have a problem with installing 8d nails into softwoods without a pilot hole? How about 16d? How about 5/16" lags? Maybe 1/2" lags... When does it end? Would you be happy if the guys building a 2nd story deck on your house didn't use pilot holes because their impact wrench can sink the lags without one? I'm not prescribing pilot holes for 4d nails into pine base shoe, but rather an educated and conscientious tradesman.
Jon Blakemore
Edited 7/13/2002 3:00:41 PM ET by Jon Blakemore
I agree with not getting too anal with the pilot holes. There's no sure rule of thumb, but use some common sense with regard to the particular materials and size of fasteners. The fastener can only displace so much material before the wood blows up or splits.
Ken Hill
Or the fastener snaps off SOMEwhere inside.
I don't understand. Regarding your statement:
"I'm all for the "right way" but when we tried drilling pilot holes for all our nails when framing a house once, we found it took just to entirely long."
What sort of framing were you doing? I know of no requirement for predrilling holes for nailing in softwoods even using 16d nails. If not nailing softwoods then hardwoods? There is a recommendation for drilling hardwoods to 2/3 the diameter of the nails to avoid splitting or crushing of the fibers. But this is usually for flooring, trim or paneling. OK but I have never heard of a stick built house, western or balloon, framed in hardwood.
That seems to leave post and beam framing. I have never heard of a post and beam frame being nailed together. I guess you could nail a post and beam frame but aren't most of these made with interlocking joints and pegged or assembled using simple joints reinforced with metal plates bolted in place? Where do the nails fit in?
Have I just led a cloistered existence or am I missing something here? Please help my ongoing education. Would you expand upon your experiences to help illuminate the subject? I await any pearls of wisdom that you may cast in my direction.
wow. I'm thinking pearls of wisdom won't do the fix. Jeff She's exotic ,but not foreign, like an old Cadillac......she's a knockout!
I was joking.
Seriously though, I can't remember using lags in house framing. I've used carriage bolts alot, but obviously, these have to be drilled.
I've driven lots of lags for framing- hex head ( 3/16" I think ) with the various Simpson strapping metal. Of course the lags are sold by Simpson, too.
Ken Hill
Sorry. My sense of humor has been thrown off by a recent death in the family.