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Corian Questions

Tomrocks21212 | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 30, 2006 10:45am

Doing a bath remodel with existing Corian wainscot, base, and chair rail. The base is square-cut, about the size of a 1×4. During the tile demo a small chip came out of it (top edge).
The HO somehow got hold of a tube of Corian joint filler, wants me to do the fix. How long does the 2-part mix take to set up? How thick is it, do I need to make a dam at the front face? What do I do to the repaired surface? There’s only about 1/2″ reveal, not much room for sanding. And what grits do I use?

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  1. User avater
    Sphere | Jun 30, 2006 11:19pm | #1

    Clamp the end of the tube in a the clamp of a sander and turn it on to mix it up..mix for about 45 seconds.

    You have about 15 minutes of working time.

    Make a dam lined with waxed paper over a hunk of something flat.

    sand with 220, buff more with a green or maroon scotchbrite.

    you'll be done in an hour or less.

    clean up with alcohol .

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

    1. VaTom | Jul 01, 2006 05:42am | #2

      Sphere's got you going right.  If you find the old work has more shine, go to finer Scotchbrite.  There's also gray and white.  Somewhere in there you'll find what the last guy used.  It'll fit on a quarter sheet sander just fine.

      Very simple.  And you'll likely find all sorts of other uses for the various Scotchbrites.  I used some red to wetsand some stair tread last week.  Matched up the varnish sheen extremely well.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

    2. Tomrocks21212 | Jul 01, 2006 07:29am | #3

      The stuff is in one of those double-sided 2 part guns, with a mixing nozzle. Not sure how you mean to mix it with the sander.
      I'll barely have enough room to sand with a fingertip, much less a pad sander. Will the green Scotchbrites be about right for a satin finish?
      The damaged area is behind the door, total area affected < 1 sq. inch.

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Jul 01, 2006 03:01pm | #4

        Gotcha about the nozzel deal. We always had tubes like toothpaste that we vibrated to mix. If you have a mixing nozzel then yer all set.

        Your "satin" finish and my "satin" could be three different sheens..LOL

        Just use what ya can muster up, for a repair that small, I'd not lose much sleep over perfection.

        Dremel has a lot of abrasive wheels that (a) wear out fast, (b) are fairly pricy, (c) probly do ya well.

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

        1. Tomrocks21212 | Jul 01, 2006 05:04pm | #5

          I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the advice. Now, if I could only talk the HO out of that nifty Corian gun (that I'll probably end up paying for)..... Then I'd have yet another tool that I'll never use again. Maybe I'll let him keep it.

          1. User avater
            Sphere | Jul 01, 2006 08:41pm | #6

            I have a lot of white seam fill in that doesnt need the gun mixer..Is it truely Corian by Dupont?  I could send a tube.

            I used to use it for custom inlays on guitar finger boards mixed with pearl dust or colored epoxy..awesome cool stuff to play with.

            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

          2. Tomrocks21212 | Jul 01, 2006 11:27pm | #7

            No, this is the real deal, Corian 2-part mix, with a Corian-branded 2 plunger gun. Don't know how the HO found it, I think some sort of barter or exchange network over the Internet, but it's official stuff.
            I like the idea for the guitar inlays! Next time I attempt to build an instrument (if the quality warrants it, lol) I'll see if you still have some of that!

          3. User avater
            Sphere | Jul 02, 2006 01:00am | #8

            Sounds like a no-brainer fix.  Have fun with it.

            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

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