I am renovating my kitchen this week and I opened up a can of worms with my corian countertop. I’ve seen it installed before without my participation, the router work, the endless sanding, and I know that is how you remove chips and scrapes from the top, which is what I’ve done. After having sanded out all my imperfections, I am slowly increasing my grit #’s, and sanding all planes equally, so as to bring back a smooth plane and ease the depth changes. My question is this: once I get into the higher ranges of sanding grit (220+), I’ll be going with wet/dry paper on a wet surface, and I’m wondering about sealing it back to a smooth, reflective surface. Is there a be-all, end-all product just for this surfacing sheen, or am I now stuck with a matte’ finish on my tops? My execution is as follows: 50 grit – specifically on the deep gouges and plane differences at seams. 80 grit – Continuing work on problem spots, overall sanding for consistancy. 100 grit – final work on problem areas, deep overall sanding for consistancy. (where I’m up to now) Next will be 150 grit for deep overall sanding for consistancy, then 220 grit wet/dry, 280 grit wet/dry, 320 grit, wet/dry, 400 grit wet/dry, 600 grit wet/dry, all of these changes done wet, just doing a quick, basic smoothing to all surfaces. It seems to me that on one of these final sandings, I would pour in the sealing material, which would fill all voids, blend colors @ seams, etc… Your thoughts?
P.S. As a heads up; I routed all my front edges with a 3/8″ quarter round bit to remove all the chips and gouges, and this may have been a mistake, as water now runs freely down the front instead of stopping at the static edge. I may have to re-route a squared edge…we’ll see.
“If left is wrong, then right is the only thing left, right?”
Replies
My thought is you are trying to produce a finish that can't be maintained, achieving an unrealistic perfection.
You can buff these tops to something that resembles high gloss, and if you want to go there, bring it to 600 and add the polishing compound. Buff until you're happy.
I would never be happy with this level of finish, even if you can perfect the finish uniformly, it won't hold up under daily use. For this product, I have to like a 'matte" finish. ;-)
Nick is right and that is what I was told when I took my 1st solid surface course. A finish polish able to be achieved, but it will show EVERY scratch, mar, and smudge. Since you are a 220 at this time, I would recommend you finish up with a maroon colored Scotch Brite. If you want a little more depth, put a little bit of liquid hand (Ivory) soap on the top and use the Scotch Brite. this will make it easy to maintain the top to a constant even sheen within a few minutes. Just put the Pad underneath you orbital sander and polish away. I never recommend a high polish in a kitchen. Baths are O.K.
Sounds like you also routed off the drip lip on the front of the top. Be careful, if you route or sand too much, you might get to a glue line and there is a good chance the glue will stand out like a sore thumb. You could also make the front edge too thin and it could crack at a later time if something hits it and modification is not part of the warranty.
If you are not sure, call a solid surface person to come out and pay the service charge. Better safe than sorry. There are many shops that will do a yearly maintenance on the tops for an additional charge.
Now I am confused.
Nick is the guy with the counters, and we are more or less on the same side.
Thanks for the reply. I will still take this sanding up to 600 (this time), but will keep the time it takes in mind for the future. What's the purpose behind a 'maroon' Scotch Brite pad? It's a standard milky white top.
P.S. I liked the idea of attaching a Scotch Brite to an orbital. Thanks!
"If left is wrong, then right is the only thing left, right?"
Sorry Qtrmeg, I'm so confused
The scotch brite is the "final" sand on a matte finish top. This is the norm for most solid surface shops out here. Even on a milky white top.
I think the best orbital sander for doing finish is the Porter Cable 1/2 sheet sander. But I have used other random orbital sanders. And of course, others will correct me on this.
I'll let others correct you then, I am more or less in agreement with you.
But you keep posting to the wrong person...
Maybe I should be Nick.
Corian is essentially methylmethacrylate-Denture acrylic. As a retired dentist I know.
Also, as an automobile enthusiast and a woodworker, I also know.
Your best bet is to go to your local autopaint supplier and explain what you want. There is a 3-m product called Finesse, i think, which will produce a gloss that will knock your socks off. The beauty of it is that it brings a higher and higher shine the more you work it. In other words, using it with a relatively coarse pad, like the maroon or finer still, the white scotchpads will determine the degree of lustre you achieve. In those shops are also various grits of buffing pads, designed to be used on orbital buffers. Of course, they use air powered, but if you are careful you can use the with PC orbital sanders (they are water based)
The guys in the carpaint stores know all there is to know about polishing acrylic.
Stef
"Finesse It" is recommended by Corian for a polishing agent. I believe the spelling is right
Thanks for the reply. The original finish is something I'm trying to get back to, but doubt that I'll reach that level. I like the matte finish, but the boss hasn't seen it yet! I just thought that there might be some great product that would make all well again.... Thanks again.
"If left is wrong, then right is the only thing left, right?"
Nick
You want a copy of duPont's booklet "How to Work With Corian in the Home Workshop". It is free from http://stonewood.safeshopper.com
All of the information you need is in there. 220 grit is the grit you start with not lower. Finesse is very good but hard to find. Brasso does a very good job and is available in the grocery store.
You DO NOT pore any finish on. The material is the finish
I hope this helps
Ken
Thanks for the reply. After more experimentation yesterday (I'm up to 400 grit, W/D, on my way out for 600) I find I'm getting all I want out of my old standby, fine steel wool as the end polisher. I got the shine back, somewhat, on a test area, and think that will do nicely. Thanks for posting the site, I'll look in before going back to the sanding/polishing. The reason I had to start with such low grit sanding was serious gouges and scratches on the surface. Got them out fine, and the overall sanding seems to be working to restore the flat plane look. Lots of ArmStrong polishing tonight, though! Thanks again, everyone!
"If left is wrong, then right is the only thing left, right?"
The steel wool you are using can easily be replaced with one of the differnt "grits" of scotchbrite and this would avoid having any wool fibers left where they can rust.