Replies

1. 
   BMan | Aug 19, 2004 10:11pm | #1

   The cork will insulate the slab some (more than tile, less than carpet and pad). Just make sure there is more insulation below the entire slab- 2"=R10 is the typical recomendation. A competent radiant designer would allow for this insulating factor when sizing the system and spacings.

   I would glue the cork down, and leave a control joint coincident with every concrete slab control joint (every 20' or 400sf).

   Have you considered staining and sealing the concrete? It would be less expensive ($3-4/sf to have it done, complete, or DIY), and looks great. Check Kemiko.com for more info. You would then need area rugs to keep it soft underfoot.

1. 
   barnbluff | Aug 20, 2004 10:32am | #4

   If I wasn't married I might consider stained concrete, but even so, I stand in the kitchen a lot, cooking, and like a little give underfoot.

   Interesting to hear that you recommend glue over floating. Any relative merits?

   I like the floating brands that I've seen with a burled look to them, any problem with that "veneer" look?

   Thanks for your help, there's lots to consider and we're just getting started.

1. 
   BMan | Aug 20, 2004 01:57pm | #6

   Check http://www.duro-design.com/ for dozens of cork patterns and colors. I spec'd this product in a corporate office- glue down over concrete. It looks great.

   Good Luck- it is a great looking floor.

   -Brian

1. 
   barnbluff | Aug 31, 2004 09:30pm | #7

   Thanks,

   I don't suppose that the concrete had heat under it? I've seen some cork co.s say not to use glue-down with radiant. What gives?

   mike

1. 
   BMan | Aug 31, 2004 10:24pm | #10

   My job did not have heat in the concrete.  I did call the company, however. They claim no problems installing glue down over heated concrete floors. You just have to acclimate the cork to the room for at least 2 days, then cut the heat to the floor and glue down following the standard procedures.

   Good luck

2. 
   barnbluff | Aug 31, 2004 11:32pm | #11

   Great, thanks for the swift reply.

   mike

2. 
   MGMaxwell | Aug 31, 2004 10:17pm | #9

   Sorry, I couldn't post my pictures. Maybe I'll try when my daughter gets home. I just do the heavy lifting around here.

   Check the DuroDesign site. They even sent me a sample board. Far greater selection than anywhere else I looked. I have the burl design but don't automatically reject the Edipo (longitudinal strips that look like old fashioned cork bobbers), my son chose it for his room in Sunny Yellow and it looks good. I suggest using the 12 x 24 inch pieces instead of the 12 x 12.

1. 
   barnbluff | Aug 31, 2004 11:38pm | #12

   Thanks, They do have a great site, I've got to see more live situations, but your pics would be nice, real life application. let me know if you post 'em

   mike

2. 
   Rojoho | Aug 19, 2004 10:29pm | #2

   Post your question at heatinghelp.com's "The Wall". Very helpful professionals will respond.

3. 
   Mongo | Aug 20, 2004 12:06am | #3

   Mike,

   To put things in perspective, cork has an r-value of about 3.0 per inch.

   Wood is about 1.0 per inch.

   So...3/4" wood flooring is about 0.75, and 1/4" cork is about 0.75.

   Most cork flooring is thinner, so theoretically you won't have a problem.

   Practical experience? Yes, I've spec'd and installed cork over rfh and it's no problem whatsoever.

   Glue or float is your choice. I prefer glue over float. Personally I think it gives a better installation and it feels better underfoot.

   Cork gives a beautiful floor, very pleasing to the eye and to the bottom of the foot. Good choice.

1. 
   barnbluff | Aug 20, 2004 10:36am | #5

   Thanks for your advice. Here's to a soft landing with every step you take.

4. 
   MGMaxwell | Aug 31, 2004 10:11pm | #8

   I suggest the glue down. I've just finished floors in my house (I'll try to post pictures) over plywood. Experiencing the joys of non parallel, wavy walls I think gluedown would allow more freedom for cut and paste with the gluedown cork. By the way you can violate a lot of safe table saw practices and cut the cork on the saw instead of with a razor knife. You get nice even edges and tons of cork sawdust to fill small gaps as well as being able to cut tapers freehand (see I told you could violate safe practices).

   A previous responder mentioned Duro Design. That's where I bought my materials. They were good to work with and the guy who answers the phone has the most outrageous French accent. Kinda like Monty Python/Holy Grail type.

   Cork way over concrete for ease on the feet and comfort in the winter.