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Hi Guys,
I use a spray adhesive made by camie-campbell called Camie-365. (Can I say a brand name – I don’t have any Camie-campbell stock or even really like the people who sell it?) It has a several minute tack time, so you can set the bead then step back and look at it. You have a minute or so to move the bead before the glue sets. I’ve used it with both metal and vinyl.
If you don’t have your heart set on metal bead, there is a really neat product out there called magic corner. It’s vinyl and comes in rolls. The same company makes pieces of all different shapes and sizes. I’ve used their 90 degree corners, 45 degree, and J channel. I generally spray the contact adhesive and also staple thru the flanges of the corner bead. On one job I used stainless steel staples, but I went back to plain old steel (much cheaper.
I haven’t had any trouble with flanges lifting like I periodically had with old fashioned tape where I starved the corner.
The vinyl bead actually seems better able to withstand dings than metal. However, because it’s relatively flexible you have to make sure you put it on a plumb corner or you wind up hacking the corner off with a drywall hammer and chisels and going thru every cuss word you know while wishing you had been more careful during the framing or hanging phase.
good luck
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I'm framing some storage closets in my in-laws basement, after sheet rocking everything my father-in-law insists I tape and paint everything. So the question is what’s the best/easiest way to apply cornerbeads? I've always used stick frame and metal corner in the past, so I never bothered to consider it! Even if screwing metal cornerbead to the metal studs is the better way, that's fine... What are your opinions? I just don't want to waste my time (or his money). Thanks in advance.
*We always use contact cement on corner beads.Gabe
*Screwing the cornerbead will work fine. You can also buy tape on cornerbead. I don't recommend crimped on cornerbead. The tool costs about $80 and any bump to the finished corner can cause it to pop loose.
*Gabe, the contact cement idea intrigues me, although I can't figure out why it would be necessary. Is it faster to install, therefore cheaper? Is it better?I saw one can of spray contact cement delivered to the drywall crew for the last house we framed. I couldn't figure out what it was for. One can cannot possibly do a 3200 sq ft home, could it? blue
*Hi Blue,I've never used or seen used it in a spray, but that should be interesting to look at.The use of brush on contact cement is wide spread here. With contact cement, you don't use nails or screws so there is less crimping or flexing of the cornerbead after installion. You know what I mean, alot of times when you drive the nail too deep you raise the edge of the corner bead up next to it. It makes finishing easier.Gabe
*Just a little clarification... 1)Brush on the contact cement (Both sides or one side only?) of the back of the bead 2) A stripe on the corner of the wall 3) let it tack and 4) Do or die, once it's on, its on!It seems do-able, but I can't see any of the drywallers I used to work with being able to glue both sides of a bead... AND apply it squarely to a corner in one shot. Am I right in assuming that only one side gets the glue? Thanks again...
*Both sides of the corner bead and both sides of the wall.If you look at the cornerbead you will notice that its not at a perfect 90 degrees. The face of the sides makes full contact when you push it against the wall corner.As with all contact cement applications, it is a one shot deal and is done when the contact cement is dry to the touch.Try it, you'll like it.Gabe
*Hey Mikey!Thanks Gabe, I'll probably 1) put the bead against the corner and draw a reference mark with a pencil 2) open the bead a little more than 90 degrees 3) glue everything up and then 4) apply one side to the reference line and then roll the other side to the adjacent wall.I have to say, I don't feel comfortable with glue on both sides. I think it will make contact before I get it placed properly. Do you agree? Or am I just being paranoid?
*No.Don't open the bead corner up, it's better that it is closed than open.Take a small piece of corner bead and place it against a corner.You will notice that it only make contact on the very edge and not the face.When you push it into place, then and only then will full contact occur and it will be glued. Gabe
*Okay, I'll need to use a small piece of bead to see it for myself. I just felt that as soon as the glued surfaces touched it would be "Game Over". Thanks for your help, I'll just have to be real careful.
*Man, I love this place. Never heard of the glue it on. If I like this, I thank you very much.
*Where was this info at the begining of the week? I just "cornered" the perfect test project! Next time with results posted. Jeff
*Err Gabe, I noticed you answered the procedural part of my q, but ignored the other parts.It must be as I suspected, slower.blue
*Hi Guys,I use a spray adhesive made by camie-campbell called Camie-365. (Can I say a brand name - I don't have any Camie-campbell stock or even really like the people who sell it?) It has a several minute tack time, so you can set the bead then step back and look at it. You have a minute or so to move the bead before the glue sets. I've used it with both metal and vinyl.If you don't have your heart set on metal bead, there is a really neat product out there called magic corner. It's vinyl and comes in rolls. The same company makes pieces of all different shapes and sizes. I've used their 90 degree corners, 45 degree, and J channel. I generally spray the contact adhesive and also staple thru the flanges of the corner bead. On one job I used stainless steel staples, but I went back to plain old steel (much cheaper.I haven't had any trouble with flanges lifting like I periodically had with old fashioned tape where I starved the corner.The vinyl bead actually seems better able to withstand dings than metal. However, because it's relatively flexible you have to make sure you put it on a plumb corner or you wind up hacking the corner off with a drywall hammer and chisels and going thru every cuss word you know while wishing you had been more careful during the framing or hanging phase.good luck
*Sorry Blue,I didn't mean to ignore any part of your question.It's a little slower than crimping or nailing but neater and less trouble to finish. There is less likelyhood of the edge popping when impacted.Gabe