Corroded posts problem in stucco fences.
I ran into a problem today while working on repairing the gates in a stucco wall fence. The stucco is on two sides and the top of the fence/walls. The fence posts are 3″ diam. round steel tubes, set in concrete. The stucco was applied to a metal facing with holes in it and 3 horizontal bars that are attached to the round posts with small self tapping screws. The problem is that I found the posts are corroded severely in the exposed 3″ by the landscaping sprinklers and the salt air. This is very close to the ocean. Some of the posts have corroded all the way through. There are 40 of these villa units with about 30 of the posts each. Too many walls and posts to have replacement as an option. My thoughts were to cut a hole in the top of the wall over each post, make a rebar triangle, drop it in, then pour in some type of epoxy to make a new post inside the original post. Would this work and what type of epoxy??? These “walls” are about 6.5′ high so the minor stucco repair to the top will not be a problem. See attached drawing.
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3rd president of US (1743 – 1826)
Replies
I just thought I would try bumping this along myself and see if anyone has any suggestions???
Never fear the want of business. A man who qualifies himself well for his calling, never fails of employment.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
sleeve it with another pipe...
TEK screw the inner outter pipe together...
use a real SCH40 pipe and not a tube like that is there now...
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I originally was leaning toward this type of repair when I realized that the self-tapping screws that hold the horizontal channel pieces on to the metal tube preclude sliding another tube inside. This is when I thought of pouring something that could harden down the tube, but what?Never fear the want of business. A man who qualifies himself well for his calling, never fails of employment.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
You might try this
1, Drill a 3/4 inch hole in the existing concrete inside tube which would take a piece of #6 rebar 4 ft long. A shaft extension would be have to be made to get down that far and the hole should be at least 8 inch deep.
Drive rebar in tight.
2, Take a 2" paint brush and tape it to a pole long enough to paint Weldcrete on the existing concrete and insides of tube. Take a Traffic cone and cut it down to make a funnel to pour concrete into the tube. Fill it up about 4 ft. 3, Clean outside of tube. Use either a paint that bonds to rust or an epoxy paint like Sherwin Williams industrial and paint the outside of tube. Take another Traffic cone and cut down to size to make a pyramid for the exposed part of tube (you would have to split it and then duct tape it together) to make a form to pour a sand and concrete (grout) base to shed any water and protect from salt and spray.
Very labor intensive but should work. Bill
This might just do the trick, should I add anything to the concrete mix to make it less brittle? I'm not that up to snuff on proper mixes for vertical concrete. Some of the wall sections are on two pillars and only about 10' long with a very heavy wood gate that closes against them, others have curves and 90 dg. walls coming off of them, so they are very rigid. The free standing ones do have some flex right now, did I say alot of flex with the corroded base posts.Never fear the want of business. A man who qualifies himself well for his calling, never fails of employment.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
Just open up the top of the 3" pipe, open a hole in the bottom to suck out water and rust. Wrap the bottom hole with wire and cardboard. Pour dry cement down the pipe and a bit of water at the same time. Leave cement 1" from the top with water. Later, cement the top completely.
You will end up with 2 1/2" concrete columns, rebar if use, should be rust-proofed due to the salt air.