I was just up on my 100+yr old barn roof slipping pieces of aluminum flashing under the severely deteriorated shingles to try and squeeze one more season of semi dry storage space out of it.
The entire barn has settled sagged and bowed enough that it needs some TLC to keep it alive for another fifty years.
Right now I don’t have the time or resources to rehabilitate it properly and don’t wan’t to try reroofing with its current structural issues.
I am contemplating roofing right over the decaying cedar shingles with corrugated metal to keep things dry until I have time to properly address all the barn’s other issues. I figure I could get metal in either 8′ or 16′ pieces to cover the 15′ width of each gable section, screw them down relatively quickly and pull them up when it comes time to fix it properly.
The roof planes are roughly 15′ by 40′, the barn is in coastal northern California (santa cruz), and it currently has one layer of cedar shingles put on the original redwood 1 x 6 skip sheeting in 1980.
When ever the barn does get rehabilitated I prefer going with corrugated metal vs cedar shingles for simplicity and I think the metal looks good on old barns.
Does anyone see any problems in my plan?
What gauge metal should I be looking for?
What is likely the most economical source for corrugated metal roofing? ABC roofing is nearby though I am curious if there isn’t a better source that the agricultural industry gets it from.
Thanks,
Karl
Replies
karl.
If it was mine I would put some used metal on it for a temporary fix. About $1 a sheet down here.
I would use a 5v or SM panel for permanent fix. $30 to $60 a square depending on gauge. Go to a real lumber yard for a supplier.
KK
If I could find used metal around here I would have put some up years ago. Last time I saw it on craigslist the seller was asking $20 a panel, can't recall how long they were but it was too much for used.I emailed these guys
http://www.metaldeck.com/12_corrugated.htm
asking them for a quote in three different thicknesses.Thanks for the input
Karl
If you are going to get around to rehab within say 2 years, just tie down a few of the HF blue poly tarps, they dont fall apart till aobut 3 YO..
You must not get th3e winds we do here. one season is a lucky gain.Now those heavy green ones - or better yet, the black/silver....
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I thought about tarping it for a few seconds. It would be a very prominent eyesore and big enough and high enough that the wind would do its darndest to get ahold of it and shred it.The barn is actually one of the visually appealing landmarks on this property so I suppose the blue tarps would kick my butt into gear quicker than the metal.Karl
I'd say go for it -- it needn't be perfect for your purposes, I suspect. Try to find the used sheets as KK suggested.
How much sag are we talking about? Can the roof take the additional weight? Corrugated panels like a relatively flat roof otherwise the panels may not align/lap properly.
I could try and post a picture but it is supposed to dump rain all day tomorrow so it might be difficult to get a good shot.The roof has a few rolling waves in it more than a predictable sag. I still need some input from someone with experience on the pros/cons of using two 8foot panels vs one 16foot panel on a roof that is far from flat.It would seem if I try to shim it flat the 16 footers are going to be a lot faster and easier to lay straight.I don't like the idea of putting additional weight on it but I think corrugated metal is as light as any of my options (other than junkhounds blue tarp).Karl
I am curious if anyone has tried this stuff in the A606 material.http://www.rustedmetalroofing.com/78_corrugated.htmI like the idea of the taller corrugations though I suppose it will make the panel stiffer and less able to conform to a wavy, saggy roof deck.Karl
That's not a product I would use for a temporary roof. It is heavier than normal panels.Frankly, you can do a permanent roof on this with very little extra effort compared to a temp roof.I have worked situations like you are describing, and find that the fasteners work loose a lot faster. Some never even hit solid in the first place. And the spring tension you build in to the assembly when you deform the metal to fit to the roof is working harder to pull fasteners out again with every wind.The plane can be straightened out by using 2x4 or 2x6 purlins horizontally across this roof. screw them to the rafters with structural screw like GRK lagheads and use string for straight and shim where needed.Do this neatly with them all laid out nicely parallel. Then you can predrill the panels on the ground in a neat pile while standing over them all at once. That is far easier and safer.Having those purlins up there works as a chicken ladder system of toeboards for you to walk, making that safer too.So spend the time/money to do that, and the work gets progressively easier, and you end up with the permanent roof.I'm reserved about how to do a temporary roof.
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What gauge would you use with what purlin spacing? I have seen cheap/thin corrugated roofing that seemed overspanned on 3' centers.Thanks for the input,
Karl
Span depends on gauge and load requirements, for wind lift as well as for snow.That rust cor-ten product you showed is 22 ga, so it should spn 32" in a lot of places. I often used 24-26 ga metal on 24" spanAll the manufacturers have charts for figuring this, but some of them hide the things pretty good in their websites.
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I am still waiting for a price quote from another supplier that specializes in metal roofing but was a bit surprised at $2.75 linear foot for a 2' wide piece of 26 gauge with zincalume coating from ABC roofing.Does this sound right or should I keep looking for a better price?I need 750 lineal feet (50 - 15 footers).Thanks for any input,
Karl
Keep looking. ABC doesn't typically have the best prices.copper p0rn
Grant, Thanks for encouraging me to keep looking. The best I was finding from anyone locally was 2.49/lin ft (1.25/sq ft).Imerc posted a craigslist search engine
http://www.searchtempest.com/that led me to a guy three hours away from me
redding craigslist > for sale / wanted > materialsCorrugated Metal Roofing Panels - $10 (Loomis)
Date: 2009-10-15, 12:08AM PDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]WE HAVE 100 PIECES OF 26GA GALVANIZED CORRUGATED ROOFING PANELS. THEY ARE 2' X 8' EACH PIECE SELLS FOR $9.89 .. DELIVERY BY OTHERS
PLEASE CALL IRVING 916-871-2461 * Location: Loomis
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
PostingID: 1422213005I called him up and it turns out he orders bulk sheets of steel and rolls out his own roofing and sells it for a buck and a quarter a ft or 62cents a sq ft.
He will roll out the 15 foot pieces that I need to do the roof in continuous lengths.Karl
coolcopper p0rn
Our local yard carries 26g 5vee from Coastal Metal Service... any length panel is something like $1.25/'. All kinds of transition, flashing, and ridge pieces, too.I know they don't service your area, but someone like them might. Funny thing is the yard is always more than the BB's but is way cheaper on this.16' pieces of 26g can be a floppy experience by yourself, especially if there's any wind<G> http://www.tvwsolar.com We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
Edited 10/19/2009 11:11 pm ET by Snort
I am wondering about the floppiness of a 15' piece in my application. I could go for two 8 footers and lap them but I really like the idea of minimal interruptions in the roof.Wind is very occassional and easy to work around, my helper is strong as an ox and has a lot of diverse experience which includes sheetmetal (though not roofing). I have screwed down a handful of metal roofs over the years but not enough to have any claim to any sort of expertise. Access is pretty clear and I haven't really thought about how to get them on the roof. Probably stand them up at an angle (some 2x beneath them) with a rope clamped? to the top off the panel and pull them up while standing on the ridge.I am interested in hearing ideas on how to safely screw the panels down in the field. I haven't checked it exactly but it looks like a 5;12 or 6:12 pitch. I would hope for something more than a harness to keep me from sliding but haven't ever seen toe boards on a metal roof???Karl
You get a 15 foot section up in the air and you'll notice the wind a lot more.When I did our deck roof with corrugated fiberglass, made up a slanted knee board with pieces of purlin strip (matching profile) on the bottom, and rubber attached to those. But that roof was only 4/12.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Edited 10/20/2009 7:23 am by DanH
If you drill the screw holes so they line up across the roof.... like someone said drill in stacks on horses... you can rest a walkboard against the screw heads.We also screw perforated pipe strap to a walkboard, remove some roof srews, then screw the straps through the roof holes.4/12 is about as steep as I like on metal without a jet pack.http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
Good suggestion on the pipe strap. I definitely need something as it is barely walkable with dry cedar shingles scuttling around crab style on all fours.Thanks,
Karl
"like someone said drill in stacks on horses."I just drill where it got delivered on the ground, as long as it stayed banded true. Standing over the drill makes it easier to do than reaching arm out. You can get some umph behind the drill motor and with a foot on the metal near the bit, the sheets don't cliomb the spinning bit - that can mean a lot of broken bits as it binds when 3-4 have climbed it.
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That's probably a good way for little people<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
We'll have a kid
Or maybe we'll rent one
He's got to be straight
We don't want a bent one
He'll drink his baby brew
From a big brass cup
Someday he may be president
If things loosen up
'course you nephilim don't even need to use ladders either;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
"I am interested in hearing ideas on how to safely screw the panels down in the field."Predrilling thosse holes in loine as I mentioned helps. You don't have to bear down hard that way to get the fastener started. Bearing down hard when the screw slips and you lose balance is no fun on a roof.I grab the sheetby the edge about 3-4' down from top and start walking up the ladder. The sheet follows my up and I keep going until I get to the ridge. Steeper roofs get a chickin ladder. I lay the material in place, never letting go of it, and use a vice grip to lip it to the previous one on the lap. Then I go the the bottom ( or with a helper, he is already there with his vice grip too. This way, there are two vice grips keeping it from sliding off the roof and the lap is true. Only then do I start screwing.Sheet roofing like this can tend to wander downhill as you work across the roof. On a square roof, the op will grow in relation to the bottom as you go across, so opnce you get a ways, you start checking that you are running true to the final edge
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Not once you get the hang of it. I've handled over 20' alone with no troubles
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Piffin -- I have to do this on a 1825 stone barn roof that has the shingles and the coregated that we have had pobably for 80 yrs and repainted -- I very much like your solution as ripping off the shingles was not too appealing -- Tks for your generous comment - Dudley
I've done this at least five times on various kinds of older 'wrinkled' roofs to straighten out the look while providing a good roof
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The two 8' panels will only be helpful if the wave/break/variation from flat is right at the joint. I've roofed with a variety of rib patterns, and all of them follow more variation from flatness than you might think. I saw one re-roof on a local old building that was intentionally curved, to avoid a pitch change. Didn't look bad either. The shingle/shake roofs I re-did had some serious sags and variations from flat, and I was only able to shim out some of it. I used full length panels, somewhere around 16', and from the ground, nobody can tell they aren't flat and straight.
Brilliant idea. My client did that with all the buildings on his property. One of them happpened to be a very old barn, similar to what you describe. It goes on fast and the material is cheap and looks super hip.
I've re-roofed a number of buildings with shingles or shakes that the owner didn't want to remove. Strapped them with 1X4 DF, 16" O.C., screwed through the shingles to the roof framing, covered with felt. This gives you something to screw the roofing material to, since most roofing screws won't go very much through the shingles. Strapping also allows you to shim some of the sag out. The roofs I did were in high wind areas, holding up well after over a decade.
I never thought about shimming the sag out with strapping. Interesting idea. I was thinking I might need to go with 8'panels instead of 16' to help it conform to the irregularities.Thanks for the suggestion.Karl