Cost effective Temp Structural support
I’ve got to temporarily support a roof load (7X20 sunporch roof) while I repair a wall section and sill. It’s a farily “light” roof. Rubber membrane with 2X4 rafers (I know… they really overbuilt ’em back in the day). I will be able to post down to something solid on both ends, and possibly mid-span, too, though I’d like to keep the work area clear if possible. Am taking out and replacing the floor, too.
What’s most cost-effective temp support you guys have found for applications like this? I was thinking about a piece of c-channel steel or a glulam, but I have to admit it kills me to drop that much cash on temp support if there’s a more cost-effective way.
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For me there is nothing more cost effective than 2x4s. They hold up houses, and can be reused for lots of stuff, like building houses!
Should be all you need. Someone else can engineer it for you!
Yep, 2x4s will work. Might double em up or make a T post. Do it all the time to hold up porch roofs.
I didn't do it....the buck does NOT stop here.
Look at the .4 posting... Do you see a pattern here at BT?
Matt
I agree with the above posts - 2 x 4s, screws, strap iron, plywood gussets if necessary, plywood "pads" - "staked down" or braced so pads won't move. "T" the 2 x 4s, or 2 x 6s for the posts.
For additional overkill - make triangles using 2 x 4s to strategic points. For additional insurance, use strap iron on key contact points.
Extra screws are some of the best and cheapest insurance you can buy.
Are you asking about posts, or a beam for them to bear on?
Doubled 2x4s generally work fine for posts, but sometimes you can find the lightweight jackposts (like for sagging beams in a basement) that are really cheap. That's what I used when I lifted one edge of my garage roof to replace the door header.
We did the outer angles first
Then demoed poorch and set the aframe under it for better safety. Took it out again when it got in way of reframing. The outriggers also became frame for plastic to shelter against the weather.
The 2x8s got used again on another porch and then later again for shorter floor joist mmaterial around a stairwell and headering for a chimney. You can see one laid flat on grond and one perpendicular to that held by meetal form stakes. This to keep the legs from sinking into soft soil in rain.
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Soft soil? On a Maine island?
I thought everything was rocks!
Ok, I give up I can not find the difference in the two pictures. I did ok with the kids puzzle in the comics with the tail position on the dog, cat whisker count, etc. Found all 6 differences. :-)
LOL, I always loved those things too. Architects and owners still compliment me on being detail oriented so it must have been good training.In this case, you know how prospero is. I sat waiting for ten minutes for confirmation on the photo attachment so I hit it again.
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I guess I was always detail oriented but it became cemented in flight school (Warrant Officer Candidate School). My BIL says I am just a picky f*****.
here's a better view of the sill prob
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Just a thought--to keep the inside clear for work, you could scab something substantial to the roof edge and support it down to the ground outside--I like 2x4's paired like an "A" where you pound the bottoms toward each other to exert pressure upward and then nail a cross brace (with duplex nails). At the sides, just a 2x nailed to the wall world work. I have also used "basement jack posts" though they say not to. I like the screw adjustment.
OK, Here is how i would support that one. I would strip the siding off from under the windows and use a 2x12 laid up over the sheathing immediatly under the window sills. Lag bolt it to every stud, then catch the weight with kickers similar to what I show, though probably at less angle due to loads. I took two stories of house that way in a similar situation once for a 28' wall full of windows.
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Thanks Piffin, that's a good plan. I was originally thinking an LVL on the outside with posts, but I was concerned about having enough room to work from the exterior. the 2X12 solves the $ problem, and I think the kickers will give me the extra room I need. I will have to go shallower on the angle b/c it's a concrete patio. I'll also probably wedge a few 2X4s b/w the porch rafters and foundation for a little added security.
Just out of curiousity, on that window wall you mention, did you put the windows in as one unit or individually? I've got to make that call here, soon. I'm leaning toward one at a time b/c I can't imagine getting a 400+ pound unit up and in -- even with help -- though the guy at my yard is trying to sell me on the big unit.
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Edited 3/22/2005 7:22 am ET by homebaseboston
Here's a pic... I'll probably get a tongue lashing, - I later added 2 more vertical supports...
Matt
What's dat black stuff under your window flanges?
black stuff? Black plastic - window flashing - probably useless IMO, but the building inspectors require it. Later, 9" wide bituminous flashing tape was installed over the window flanges. Matt
You got to think like a drop of water when you are applying your wrap and flashing. Looks like the overlap is backwards and the peel and stick applied over that will be worthless.
NAW - the way I have it lapped is fine. Install bottom first, then sides, then top. I did not slit the housewrap and put the headflashing up underneath as the "peal and sick" I used practically welds itself to whatever you apply it to and at $32 a roll, it aught to: http://www.protectowrap.com/cat_btfbt20.php. I used the primer described on the web page too. It will be fine. I use some less expensive tape on the bottom, because some drainage may be advantageous. 80% of new homebuyers could only dream of purchasing a house as weather tight as I build.
BTW - I use that same phrase myself... "think like a drop of water". If the response is a blank stare, I then take a cup of water and throw it on the side of the building. The water running down the side of the house turns on even the dimmest bulbs.. :-)
The 2 attached pics show the plastic lappage, and then the finished window with flashing tape - although the pic is actually of the slab freeze protection and doesn't fully show the flashing tape.
If I remember correctly, you posted pics of that way rotted out small office building - I can see how you would be super flashing conscious... Matt
four individual units and a center door, all one each with stud between like your photo shows.
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Need to revive this thread to ask a pretty basic question.
I'm going to use a ledger and kickers to support this wall. How do you calculate the length for the kickers after you've cut the birds mouth? Is there a way to booger it, or is it easier to use... math? Ungh._____________________________HomeBase______________ LLC
hold the tape out into the wind and guess what it reads. it's a trial and error for the first one.
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Go rent some post shores and an LVL or aluminum beam. $30 a month (pro-rated daily thereafter if you take them out and forget to bring them back)<G>