Replies

1. 
   seeyou | Aug 03, 2006 10:53pm | #1

   $57,684.32.

   Actually, you're not going to be able to get a good price here, because prices vary regionally and much more info is necessary.

    

    

   What ever you do, don't flip the red switch on the dashboard, Gunner.

    

   http://grantlogan.net/

1. 
   DougU | Aug 04, 2006 02:41am | #4

   $57,684.32.

   Everybodies trying to jump on the Brownbagg bandwagon!

1. 
   seeyou | Aug 04, 2006 03:51am | #5

   I knew I'd seen it somewhere before, I just couldn't remember where. Or, maybe I thought it up and used it and bb stole it from me. 

    

   What ever you do, don't flip the red switch on the dashboard, Gunner.

    

   http://grantlogan.net/

2. 
   DanH | Aug 04, 2006 12:03am | #2

   My experience is that tuck-pointing is done by peculiar people. It's a fairly solitary job, and the folks who do a lot of it tend to be characters of one sort or another.

   Ask around and find out who's good. Then work to get on their good side and you can likely knock the price down 20%.

   But understand you'll be much happier in the long run paying a little extra for quality vs getting a low-bid job from a guy who does half-arsed work.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
3. 
   ponytl | Aug 04, 2006 02:28am | #3

   anyone can tuck point.... the question is do you want just anyone....?

   alot of info. is needed to even guess  but a few things to keep in mind is the type of brick and the type of mortar used.... before 1920 about all mortar was lime puddy mortar... ie no portland... it is a low psi mortar (about 250) it's soft and it's self healing... if this is what you have and you have freeze thaw cycles... and you use a harder portland product you'll have alot of broken bricks...

   is this historical?

   do the joints need to be cut out?  most say a min of 1 1/4" deep  before tuckpointing...

   are you doing this for resale? or restoration.... you can do it cheaper and it'll look ok but it might only last 10-20 years  or you can do it better and you might get 50-100yrs... chances are even doing it on the cheap... even after 20yrs you might only have 5-10% that doesn't hold up

   is that 860sf of wall or is it a 860sf building?

   lot of options...  but i'd guess a call to a waterproofing contractor will give you an idea of whats needed and a ballpark price...

   just so you'll know... with 3 guys working we can tuckpoint 400sf on some days and 100sf on other days...

   p

   
   

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   Edited 8/3/2006 10:01 pm ET by ponytl