I am having some trouble with coping 5 1/2″ coved crown at a 45 degree angle at a corner cabinet. Can I cope it, or do I need to use a standard inside 22 1/2 degree miter?
Thanks.
I am having some trouble with coping 5 1/2″ coved crown at a 45 degree angle at a corner cabinet. Can I cope it, or do I need to use a standard inside 22 1/2 degree miter?
Thanks.
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
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Replies
I haven't tried this, but it just seems t me that it should work. First, cut the 22-1/2 miter. Then use the coping saw to follow the pattern. Note that the back-cut angle for the coping saw will need to be very steep. In fact, it might be easier to use files and rasps for the back-angling, once the basic profile is cut.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Cut the miter at your 22, then flip the stock 90 degrees - you're used to cutting it upside down, with the bottom up, now lay it so the top is where the base was. Cut your cope that way - gives you a better picture of how things intersect, and yes, you need to back cut it considerably. Files in multiple sizes are very useful.
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Thanks guys.
I will try to back cut on a steeper angle. Just seemed that the coved part of the crown would be paper thin at the miter. Scared I guess?
JB.
In the case of a 45, I've always used a miter cut with the pieces glued and strongly backed. Let us know the results.
Thanks Jer,
The trim is all pre-finished cherry panels, base and crown. I might have forgot to mention that? I tried the coping method for the 45 and it just wasn't working. We ended up mitering the joint tight, glued and nailed her off. A bit of colored pencil filler and the joint dissapeared.
Thanks for your help. It's nice to have this forum and you guy's out there to bounce thoughts off each other.
JB.
Next time, try pre-assembling all the crown around cabinets. Get some Collins spring clamps. Cut each piece and check it to be sure it fits right (use a small protractor to check the corner angles), then assemble the joints on a work table--use a little site-built jig to be sure the square corners are square (piece of ply or mdf with two thin rips tacked to two edges in one corner-- forming a square you can rest the crown against while clamping/nailing it). Then put up three-four-or even five pieces all at once, with the miters glued AND the inside corners back nailed. Works like a charm! Turn crown molding into fun.
Gary
Glad it turned out for you. I'm with GKATZZ, I like to preassemble as much as possible, that way any filling, sanding or rasping can be easily be done on the work table.
Miter and glue.
Mr T
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