Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 03:36am | #1

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   Sorry Lance,

   There is no industry standards regarding blocking. Every case is on it's own merits. There is a million different types and sizes of crown mouldings and an equal number of ideas on installation.

   When we know there is going to be crown molding, chair rails or wood baseboards, on a wall fabricated with metal studs, we install wood blocking behind the drywall otherwise we end up having to install a surface nailing strip over the drywall with screws and contact cement. A real pain in the ass to do.

   Maybe some of the other guys have other thoughts,

   Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 04:44am | #2

   *Why the contact cement? Just curious. If I were using glue I'd reach for construction adhesive, not pretty but pretty quick.Taking the advice of others here, I've started nailing up a diagonally ripped 2x3 nailer for the smallish crown I'm using. I tried fitting it more precisely to the crown back but it wasn't worth it -- our plaster walls have too much "personality." With the nailer, you can just worry about getting the crown up straight, not whether the nails are going to hit anything.Maybe a nailer is actually easier than fitting blocking? For SMALL (3-5") crown). Multipart crown, blocking would be great.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 04:58am | #3

   *Hi Andrew,Why the contact cement? Answer, never tried anything else, I guess. It works everytime and doesn't gob up under the strip, lays tight. Smells real good toooooo.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 05:02am | #4

   *Uh-oh. Do you really need it? (Or should I say, does the CROWN really need it?

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 05:54am | #5

   *Other than the obvious lift you're getting from the contact cement, howcome just the screws aren't enough?Count me in for any blocking, much less, industry standards.BB

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 06:00am | #6

   *Hi again Andrew,I guess it depends on the size of the crown moulding and the spacing of the metal studs. By gluing the nailing strip to the wallboard we can minimize the size and thickness of the strip and we don't have to worry about not making good nailing contact between the studs as well.Kinda like using the wallboard along with the strip for stiffness when the two are laminated together.Gabe

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 08:12am | #7

   *Simply rip a triangular backer strip to fit the back of your crown mold.(slightly smaller is good-inside corners are rarely square) Locate yourstuds and screw in the backer. If you are ultra conservative use construction adhesive, but in my opinion that's way overkill. I built a steel frame house with several hundred feet of crown,and found this much easier and less costly than screwing in a zillion individual blockers. Since then it's my method of choice for wood frame construction as well. Good luck- John

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 07:16pm | #9

   *Lance,I don't believe it necessary to nail backing to the studs. Rip a strip 3/8 smaller than the hollow behind the crown, squirt regular titebond yellow glue on it and either screw it to the drywall ceiling without pre drilling the backer, or shoot it in with a gun. Angle the nails and put two back to back angled away form each other.

2. 
   Lance_Simons | Apr 28, 1999 07:16pm | #8

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   I am looking for industry standards regarding the use of blocking behind crown mold installation.
   The construction is metal studs with 5/8-inch sheetrock!
   HELP!