Crown Molding 135 Degree Inside Corner
I am installing crown molding in a kitchen. I have to go around an inside corner that is 135 degrees. There is a croner cabinet that has an angled face. Is is best to cope the joint or will a traditional miter work just fiine.
Replies
For kitchen cabinets, where you can be sure of true 90's and 45's/135's, mitering all corners works out fine.
I've never tried to cope 135° inside corners. I'm sure it's hard to get a nice crisp profile with the heavy back-cut that's needed.
IMO, a coped joint in that instance is overkill. A regular miter is just fine. I do glue the joint when I install the pieces.
I do cope pretty much every square corner. Crown, base, chair rail, etc. I actually find that method faster than trying to get the cut angles perfect for a nice, tight fit.
(Here's a cut-and-paste from 115275. You probably want to read that thread)
I have played around with mitering inside bay windows, turrets, etc. because of the extreme cope angle. I’ve gone back and forth on this -- currently I’m thinking that I’ll cope the next round.
But when I do miter, I’ve come up with this “clamping” trick: about an inch back from the miter joint, drill pilot holes, top and bottom, through both pieces of crown, continuing on through the drywall.
Take down the crown, and drive drywall screws into the drywall. Don’t worry about hitting framing or not.
Now, when you fit your pieces permanently, butter the miter, wall flats, and ceiling flats of the molding with adhesive caulk, and drive long screws into the pilot holes in the crown. These screws will stop penetrating when they hit the drywall screws beneath, and will start to jack the crown out instead, tightening up the miter joint in a way impossible by other means.
You can really fine-tune the joint by loosening one screw, and tightening its counterpart on the other piece of crown.
Just make sure that your screws are plenty long, so that the threads are well engaged, and the heads never come close to contacting/damaging the face of the crown.
Leave the crown bristling like a pincushion until the glue has set up, then remove the protruding screws.
This technique works pretty well, but I still like coped joints better.
AitchKay
http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/more_coping_135.html
Thanks for all the help. I went with a simple miter and it turned out great. Ill be sure to check out garymkatz.com again though.