This may sound like a pretty basic question but that’s where I am in my homebuilding – at the basic level.
When installing crown molding along a wall that runs parallel to the ceiling joists, what do you nail the ceiling edge of the molding to? The wall edge can be nailed to each wall stud, but the first ceiling joist is several inches from the wall/ceiling joint, so there is nothing there to nail to. Help.
Will
Replies
Nail it to the strapping, that will be running perpedicular to the joists. If you can't find those then cross nail at a 30 degree angle into the plaster.
Since your asking a question like this, I would suggest checking out "finish carpentry" by Gary Katz from your local library, also go to his website, that has some good info.
http://www.garymkatz.com/index.htm
Several options for you.....nailing through the center of the crown on an upward angle will catch either the walls top plates, or the continued balloon frame studs....a bead of construction adhesive along the top edge with nails set at opposing angles....installing a rip of scrap lumber which runs the perimeter of the room, prior to crown, gives you plenty of nailing.
Any of the above combinations will help to install the moulding solidly.
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Here's what I do, same as your last option. Requires no finding of the studs or plates or anything else behind the sheetrock, and provides solid nailing anywhere/everywhere you want it. Installing the blocks is simple enough for a helper to do.
Ditto on #5. Small profiles (I know, this is getting redundant) can survive the cross pin method, but you start getting 6 or 7" crown, blocking is the way to go.
Regarding that - important thing to make sure you know the spring angle of the flat on the back of the crown. Don't just assume 45 degree cuts. And I like to leave them a tad shy. Small irregularities in the DW won't matter that way. But you still need to eyeball things closely. If you get a sudden change in elevation in a corner (what, you wanted the ceilings all to line up?) that matters.
Just trimmed a fairly detail oriented Parade home and the builder was none too happy. He wondered aloud if his framer had suddenly forgotten how to use a level. The crown is where it really showed, and man, scribing crown to the ceiling sucks rotten eggs. "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
I pretty much use the backing for most any crown ....
everything except for bed mould sized stuff. Just a good habit that's easy to get into.
I could skip it on most new(er) homes with the smaller stuff ... but I'm usually in an older/plaster house .... the backing just makes life easier each time I plan ahead and rip some backer.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
That eggzackly what I`m talkin` about....pictures worth a thousand words!
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If you`d like to discuss topics other than home building, come on down to the Woodshed Tavern. Great bunch of guys and gals letting off a little steam about everything and anything. Its not a special club, but.....as of Monday, March 14, the Tavern folder will go behind an access wall. Only those who request access to this folder by contacting [email protected] will be able to view and participate in discussions there.
david's drawing helps show what I do.
I just rip down 2x4's on the table saw.
Hold a scrap of the crown inside the angle of a framing square ... that'll tell U the measurments. I like to shoot for keeping the angled filler 1/4 inch short of the backside of the crown ... that way ... any crooked walls or bumps in the walls won't push things outta whack..
I also hold the backer out of each corner about 6 inches ... just measure the wall and cut your piece a foot short. Most corners are over-filled with joint compound ... this'll help your allignment too.
U can use long screws to catch the top plates ... I just shoot them on with my framing nailer and 16's.
and as U already figured out ... U only gotta hit 2 outta the 4 walls.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
As other posts said , smaller crowns can be nailed thru the cove portion into the wall plates. Larger crowns require blocking. I cut blocking from a 2x4 or larger lumber if the crown is very big. Take a short piece, line it up with on a framing square and note the dimensions to the back of the crown. For example, 2" and 3" pretty typical crown,find the spring angle.More than likely it is 38/52. Set miter saw for 32°, measure in from one end 1 -15/16". The resulting cut will give you blocking with a 32° angle and one leg 1-15/16" and the other 2-15/16".The blocking should be a bit smaller than the measured dimension.Install 8" from each end and at 24" centers.Do not install blocking tight to corner, it will interfere with the crown installation on the perpendicular wall.Sometimes I mark the wall with a bit of masking tape at each block. If the walls are not painted yet ,just use a pencil.
mike