I am a fairly experienced woodworker (furniture only) but have no experience with home building except for small projects around the house and a fireplace mantel. I have this idea that I want to install some crown molding in our dining room (we do not have a tray ceiling-it’s just a flat, textured ceiling) with rope lighting hidden behind it. I have power (a 100-volt outlet) about 6 inches off the ceiling in the 8-foot high room, switched from below.
How do I install the crown? I was thinking that I need to hold the top of the molding about 6-8 inches away from the ceiling, so that rope lighting has its effect. So, I was going to rip some 2 x 3’s at the same angle as the one made between the molding and the wall and screw the 2 x 3’s into the studs. Then nail the molding to the 2 x 3 supports at the base and in the middle of the molding and lay the rope lighting on top of the 2 x 3’s. Is this the best way to do it? I’m wide open to suggestions. Thank you!!
Replies
Woody,
Your approach sounds good to me.
The only other option I might consider would be to put a "dust cap" over the crown. Lots of old houses used dust caps over large crowns on windows and doors when solid stock (aka caps) wasn't being used.
Depending on the specifics of your project, the dust cap might be easier, and it could provide some additional visual interest to the molding profile.
Good luck with the project,
Ragnar
I did a project similar to that but using the halogen track lighting.. you can see how I did it in my crown molding tutorial on the site. You'll find it in the Owner Notebook section in owners tutorials.
It's very similar to your approach with ripping a backer to the spring angle.
http://www.altereagle.com/
Alter
Not to change the subject but when I looked at your website I noticed youre from Sebastopol. I'm from NY LI. spent a week in Sebastopol with Ce Ce (our agent) looking at property there. I put a bid in on 11 acres but it wasnt accepted for some reason. Anyway.beautiful area. Ce Ce claimed there was tons of work for me there but I hardly saw any contractors trucks or work being done and this was in August..kinda got me a bit nervous.
Have a great New Year
Namaste
AndyOne works on oneself, always. That's the greatest gift you can give to community because the more you extricate your mind from that which defines separateness, that defines community. The first thing is to become community. "Ram Dass"http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Thanks for the reply Ragnar. I'm not sure I understand what a dust cap is. I'm envisioning the rope just lighting lying along the 2 x 3 supports about 1-2 inches beow the top pf the crown. Would the dust cap cover the lighting? If not, would you explain how it would work?
Thanks,
Woody
Woody,
Now you're going to make we wish I had a scanner for the n-th time!!! ;) It would be much easier to scan a sketch..... but for now.....
A dust cap is simply a piece of trim of rectangular cross section that acts to seal the top of a cornice detail. In many ways, it looks like a drip cap, except doesn't typically have any slope to it. Let's say you were going to apply a 3-1/2" crown over a large window head. Due to the spring angle of the crown, you'd have a large gap at the top that would, over time, collect dust, among other things. I've also seen bottle caps, a variety of dead bugs, and small toys!
The exact size of the cap is determined by you, the designer. Sometimes, you can cut a rabbet into the back of the crown mold to accept the dust cap. Other times, you can just let the cap project a small bit beyond the crown mold, which creates another shadow line and can visually increase the size and interest of the cornice as a whole.
In any case, I would imagine that your lighting rope would just sit on top of the dust cap, so that it would fully illuminate the ceiling, and sit back far enough that it would not be directly visible to someone standing in the room.
I once had a lady ask me to do exactly what you're talking about, using a 5-1/2" crown in a very large and tall formal entry. Although I eventually passed on the project because I was just too busy, this is the way I had planned on doing it: First, install an inverted piece of base mold around the room. Next, install the crown onto this piece by nailing through the low side of the crown and into the base element. Allow the detailed edge of the base to be seen, and locate the crown at the proper elevation such that the top of the crown is level with the top of the base (you could also rip the base to a desired width before installing it, if necessary). Also, if necessary, put in a few angled blocks cut from 2x stock which match the crown's spring angle (I sometimes do this on multi-element cornices). Finally, take a piece of S4S and install it on top.
Like I said in the original post, the above may or may not be easier for you. If you're going to use a small crown, It'd probably be easiest to use the backer like you said. However, if you'd like to use a big crown (say 4" or 5"), you might want to use the dust cap approach. It really just depends on how big you want the crown to be, and how elaborate.
Ragnar
Thanks Ragnar,
No scanner is necessary yet!! I think I understand what you are saying. A few questions: Would you bring the dust cap all the way back to the wall so no dust can get behind the molding at all? Would you attach the dust cap to the wall? I'm envisioning the dust cap sitting just on the top of the molding, creating another interesting line in the molding as you said. The dust cap would be parallel to the ceiling, probably just butted up against the wall and resting on the top of the inverted base molding which I would position parallel with the top of the crown. I would probably plane the S4S (I think I'd use poplar) down to 1/2" and tack it to the crown and base molding every few feet with some glue. Does this sound like a good plan?
Never tried anything like this before - I've read about what I'm in for trying to cope the moldings on the inside corners - but it still sounds like a satisfying project when it is all done. (I'm making raised panels, base, and chair rail around the lower half of the room, too).
Thanks for your help!!!
Woody
what about picture rail w/ the lighting behind the rail at the top? Hidden lights.
The dust cap would be parallel to the ceiling, probably just butted up against the wall and resting on the top of the inverted base molding
Yes, that's exactly the way I would envision it. Bring it all the way back to the wall so that nothing will get into the cornice.
Sounds like you have a fun project ahead of you! Just remember to keep it fun! Sometimes I have to remind myself of that. ;)
I'm glad you're learning to cope inside corners, too. I highly recommend it over miters.
Glad I could help,
Ragnar
Woody,
I just found this picture from one of Piffin's posts.... Notice the way the "shelves" (aka dust caps) are supported by crown mold and some other elements. Since it shows something very similar to what we're talking about, I figured I'd "borrow" it and show it to you here, too.
Ragnar
Got it Ragnar! Thanks for all your help. I'll be starting this weekend!!
Woody