I need to install crown on some 42 inch tall cabinets. The cabs do not have rails wide enough to push the cabinets tight to the ceiling.
What do you guys do in this situation?
In the past, I have installed blocking directly to the ceiling and installed the cabs tight to it. This gave me someplace to nail the crown to also.
I have already hung the cabs down from the ceiling. Just so my wife could see some progress. I can pull them down, there’s only two and they are seperate. What’s a handfull of drywall screws. Just kidding, I used real screws.
Thanks in advance.
Replies
You could make the blocking easier on your self by installing it on the cabinets before they go up.
a recent job I did had a 4 piece built up crown. I did the blocking and installed all the crown before the cabinets went up.
Depending on the size of the crown, you can still install a cleat (beveled) on the ceiling to catch the top edge. Same goes with a cleat on the tops of the cabs, screw up through the bottom of the top rail and into the block.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I'm not sure I'm getting this but are you going to be attaching the crown to the top of the cabinets(nailed to the rail, assuming face frame) and then it butting tight to the ceiling?
If so why do you need blocking, nail it to the cabinet and cross pin it to the ceiling or soffit.
Or, do you have euro style cab's? If so take them down and add a strip to the top of the box and thats your backer for the crown.
Doug
I like to screw up some 1x or even 2x cleats to the inside perimeter of the cab top rails. Then I take another piece of 1x and place it on top of the cabinet top rails and in front of the the 1x (or 2x)I just screwed in. I screw the two together then put my cab up and do my crown thing.
I just feel its stronger this way. I've been doing it this way for decades.
Be well hung
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Thanks for the help guys.
Doug, not euro, I just thought blocking was required. It is decent sized crown. I want to be like Andy.
not euro, I just thought blocking was required.
Its not required and a lot of cabinets are done with out it and never have problems. I've seen cabinet jobs that I had done 10 years before and the crown still looks fine, hell where can it go!
But, its easier to do with the blocking and givin the choice I prefer it.
If you can still get the cabs down easily then I'd add it, specially if you've got wide crown, will make it mo better for the install.
Doug
Thanks Doug. I'll probably pull them down. I knew when I was hanging them I should put in some blocking. I needed my wife to see some progress.
BTW your video on coping crown with a grinder was very informative.
Where is that video? I never saw it.
Let's see if this works.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=75981.39
I needed my wife to see some progress.
Ahh, the old "hurry up and get something hung so the boss sees that you wernt sitting around on your azz all day farting around" progress, yea, we've all done that!
Glad you liked the video, its hard to explain some of this stuff and pictures do go along way.
Doug
It's not unusual to have to attach a backer to the tops of the cabinets for crown. There are many types of crown moldings. More are coming with a provision to make the attachment but some will require a backer. Done well, the backers can be a great aid in holding the crown at the proper angle. This makes fitting miters easier.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match