I am trimming out my windows using 1″ x 4″ fluted casing with 5/4″ x 4-1/2 bulls eyes. I can’t figure how to do the center window in a bay window. There is only a two inch gap@ 45 deg. between the windows. I plan to use a plain piece of wood between, but I am afraid to miter and butt the fluted horizontals top and bottom together. Do you think it would work … stay tight etc., or can anyone give me a better idea? I have been procrastinating this decision for too long.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Say the fluted stock is 3/4" yhick and the bullseye corners are 1" thick.
I would make the intersection casing 3/4" thick but with no fluting, and make up a block 1" for the head trim to bump into, all mitred to fir at the intersection. Just no fluting or bullseyes, but still same sizing as the stock is otherwise.
Is that clear as mud?
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
A little cloudy but not quite mud. My original question was more like mud. Some things are hard to put into words. The bay window will be framed with fluted trim ... no stool or interior sill as I have always called it. The 1" block you refer to, would that be four 1" x 2-1/2" x 4-1/2" blocks in the 45 deg. butt joints between the head trim fluted pieces and the base trim fluted pieces? The 3/4" intersection casing I am assuming is the vertical between the window sections. I believe that will work, and look pretty sharp.Thanks,
John
sounds like we're on the same page
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin,Based on your idea, I am going to try to expand it. I am going to try a tapered key as the top block. I will post a picture if it works out. I have a sliding compound miter saw that can do it if the driver can put in all the correct angles. This fluted wood is a little expensive, so I will quit if I get too many rejects. Maybe I'll try it on some scrap 1" x 4" first.Thanks again,
John