Went to bid a job tonight and while I was there the HO wanted me to take a look at a door / floor deal he had. HO had hardwood floors installed awhile back and when they got to the back door they ran the floor right up to the threshhold ( flooring running 90 degrees to the threshold ) . The problem is the door just barely clears the floor so they were’nt able to get a transition in. The door is metal, and the threshold is adjustable. The flooring is about 1/4″ proud of inboard side of threshold.
What would be the best way to fix this? Cutting the door and adjusting the threshold up to meet it seems like the easiest thing but I’ve never cut a metal door off. The bottom of the door has the rolled edge clad over a wood frame and I just can’t picture this as looking good when cut. Can this be done or is there a better fix like maybe cutting the floor back and just dropping the transition down flush to cover the end cuts. Any thoughts?
Replies
Just a thought, pull the interior trim and see if you can raise the door in the RO. You might have to take care of some exterior details (thicker sill and shorter sides) .
What's wrong with me? I could ask you the exact same thing.
Yea, I thought about that but the house is stucco and I was trying to stay away from having to cut it loose and move it up; if it was even a option. This house was built in the '80's sometime and thats when they were having alot of problems with stucco leaking around here. This door does'nt have much overhang and on these I'm always leary of breaking the "seal" and inheriting the liability of something thats not my fault on down the road. I'll do it but....
Anyway, thanks for the thought and its good to see that it was'nt something obvious that stumped me.
How come nobody thinks about this stuff before it's too late?
I would give some serious thought to checking to see if there's enough room between the head jamb and header to re-hang the entire door unit higher.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
http://moosehilljournal.blogspot.com/
It can be done, but you'll only gain maybe 3/8's inch by cutting it to the max reach of the threshold. Metal cutting carbide blade, pull the bottom sweep first. Use eye protection,flying hot metal. If the bottom sweep has the barbs on the backside, you'll have to rip 2 grooves in the wood bottom. Bed in caulk and mallet it in the grooves.
I'd sure check for moving up in the rough frame first, but if you've got something you can't ruin in/out trim wise, it's an option.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
You could cut the door to desired height, and put a new bottom seal on the door.
Get a bottom seal that will cover up the cut edge of the door (U-channel type, available in several finishes).
You may need to install a new threshold if the existing on will not adjust upward enough.
If you cut the door and put a new sweep on it, you're still the same distance from the finished floor, no?
I would think you'd have to raise the door in the RO, right?
Could always remove the HW floor at the entryway, and install a beautiful ceramic tile entryway that would be lower.
http://grungefm.com
Cut the door such that the finished height with new sweep added is above finished floor to desired height. The new sweep is to cover the cut edge of the steel door.
There is still the issue of raising the threshold high enough to meet the bottom of the door.
What Cal said. But tape the cut line on both sides, and have a file on hand.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" I am not an Activist, I am, a Catalyst. I lay around and do nothing, until another ingredient is added"
I/ve cut down metal doors before, but usually from the top. I made a quick cut-off jig for the circ saw to mimize damage to the door. Taped the door prior to cutting as well. One other piece of advice: Prime and paint the door ASAP after cutting. It doesn't take long for the steel to begin to rust, even in a protected place like a covered porch.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
How about doing something that's minimally destructive instead:
Rising butt hinge
http://www.constantines.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=939
View Image
It makes the door rise as it opens. No stucco cutting required!
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
And how is that going to fix his problem? Quote:
The flooring is about 1/4" proud of inboard side of threshold.
Yep, I misread. I thought he was looking to add clearance between the door and the floor.
I also was just looking into these hinges myself earlier today - must have had my signals crossed.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Hey, I thought the hinges were a great, unique and simple solution.
Tile it, though.
http://grungefm.com
I can't picture it looking good cut, either. I think the best option would be to remove the hardwood in front of the threshhold and tile it in something to give you more clearance. It would be more waterproof for shoes coming in from outdoors, too.
Edited 8/4/2006 10:46 pm ET by splintergroupie
To cut HD metal doors (metal skin doors)
you can use just about any sawblade.
1.clamp a straight edge.
2. Lower the blade to 1/16" and cut backwards.
3. Lower the blade to full depth and cut the right way.
Just in case, reset the straight edge for your second cut 1/64"
Good luck.
YCF D
Hey dug,
I've done a few thousand doors (wood, fiberglass, metal clad, and steel while doing commercial interior finish out work.
It appears from your description of the door that this is not a "metal" or "steel" door, but merely a "metal or tin" clad door. So it's either a composite door or a wood door clad in a light sheet metal.
The point being it's no big sweat to just take 10 minutes total and cut the door. Listen close to the previous advice on using long sleeves and for God's sake wear safety glasses. Then just use any real sharp circular saw blade (with carbides) and go to town (it's just one door not a whole skyscraper full of doors so don't sweat researching and buying a specific or expensive blade - if need be use up a cheap blade and then toss it.) Scribe it if you want, use a straight edge if you want - but do use a sharp blade, safety glasses, and long sleeves.
Have at it and that sharp blade will go thru that door like a "hot knife thru butter" and about 30 seconds after you started the cut you'll be done and standing there thinking to yourself "man o live but that sure was easy -- am I good or what.
Have a good one - and get after it!
Cork in Chicago
PS Seal the bottom of the door - the biggest cause of both door failure and voiding of factory warranty is cutting the bottom off a door and then not sealing it.
Yea, I think your right about the tin clad, that was actually my concern, that it was so thin! I've cut alot of metal roofing over the years with a circ saw so I know what you mean about the long sleeves and face shields etc.
One side of me wants to leave it as is so he will remember that he had someone besides me put his floors down and one side of me wants to fix it so he will remember to call me next time. LOL
Always leave em with a good taste in their mouth, you never know when the time may come and your hungry for work.
Have a good one,
Cork
Man are you all going about this all wrong.
Tell him he needs a wood door and cut it to the appropriate height and charge for door and finish and make money on install and materials and paint.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST