What is the trick for getting a primo finish cut for an undermount sink on a kitchen countertop?
The cut opening wil be visible, the material is 1 1/4″ paperstone. According to the manufacturer it can be worked like wood.
I was thinking that I would make a plywood template from the paper template that comes with the sink. The template would be on the outside of the cut, and then use a pattern making bit in a router to make the actual cut. The difficulty in this would be to get the cut in the template to be totally perfect.
Replies
Have you ever used a router bit with a collar to cut a mortise? This would be pretty much the same thing except on a larger scale - with much bigger penalties if you blow it!! - lol
Make a guide out of 1/4" plywood and practice, practice, practice. The trick is to make sure that your guide is dead-on.
I've done this many times in wood and am comfortable with it, but would probably take this job to a countertop shop and pay them to do it.
I use hardboard for the template - cut to fit the OUTSIDE of the cut, and a bearing guided router bit after removing to within about 3/16" with a jigsaw.
reason for the template on outside is to keep bit from wandering into the saved portion of the counter top
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What's the best router bit for cutting out counter tops? It seems there are so many choices. I will be remodeling my kitchen next year and plan to build my own cabinets and counter tops. The only thing that scares me is messing up a counter top.
You want to use a premium top-bearing straight bit, and as Piffin said, you want to be cutting INside the template so that if you slip, you don't ruin the rest of the countertop. You also should remove 99% of the material with a jigsaw so that all you have left is a light pass or two with the router to clean up the edge.
Thanks for the good advice. I never even considered precutting with a jigsaw.
The best bit choice actually depends somewhat on the material. I've used straight bits, profiled, as well as spiral downcut bits.
Surf the router bit manufacturers' sites for recommendations.
I recently picked up a spiral downcut bit for free when I bought my Bosch Colt. I assume it would be a good choice for cutting melamine (melanine?) and MDF.
Any idea which bit would be preferred for plexiglass? What rotational speed?
I have been planning to experiment on the plastic, at least until I found out how expensive it is.
Sas
If your cutting counter top make sure your bit is 1/2" by whatever length you need.
http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs
Click on Template bits and scroll down
The 3018 is my choice of bits for templeting. There quit a chunk of metal but they'll trim off wood like cutting butter with a hot knife.
Doug
Edited 3/16/2007 6:54 pm ET by DougU
OK, I'll buy one and practice. I like to handle my logistics in advance. That way, when I get to my objective, I am most likely at least a little bit prepared.
make your template out of 1/4 " hardboard and use a couple strips of double sticky carpet tape to hod in place long enough to make your cuts. Carpet tape works much better than foamy thicker dbl sticky tape.__________________________
Judo Chop!
Sasquatch,
If you want to cut "Plexiglass" which is acrylic be VERY careful to use a bit specifically ground for that purpose. Acrylic requires a grind with almost zero rake or it will grag and shatter. Try drilling it with a 1/4" or larger bit and you will see what I mean. Lexan or polycarbonate on the otherhand should work OK as it is not as brittle.
Hope this helps
I'm with you Piffin - outside template and it becomes more difficult to do real damage in this case. Not impossible to damage the top - just more difficult.
If the router wanders a bit with an outside template - just make another pass to clean it up.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
im in the process of doing this for our new laminated countertop, ie formica over particle board.
i did a practice run using an old sink and a scrap piece of laminated top
i fastened a piece of 3/8 plywood to the sink using clamps and cut an outside template witha router and a 3/8 straight cutter with a bearing
i then did the cutout in the top using the template
i had already routered a dado in the particle board underlay and filled it with west system epoxy for a wateproof edge but thats another story!!
the cutout was perfect
ps undermount sinks in a laminated top can work!!
What Steve is talking about is what I was getting at. The template is the most critcal part of the operation.What I don't get is how do you rout a template for the inside of the lip on a sink. If you rout the outside lip of a sink you just create a hole that the sink drops down through.Is there an adjustable attachment to a router bit(bearing?) that that moves the cut away from the cut line?
You are cinfusing two different things.The SIZE of the templatre is for the inside of the sink. The LOCATION of the bit running is to the inside of the template
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i routered my template using the inside vertical surface of the sink as my router guide
i'll post a pic later
here's apic
Edited 3/18/2007 7:54 am ET by steve
oops, forgot to flip it, but you get the idea i hope
Edited 3/18/2007 7:58 am ET by steve
i'd like to hear your method of undermount/epxoy on a lamanite top.i've always thought about trying it but worried after a day or two of work i'd end up chucking it. larryhand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
right now its kind of experimental, ive had several requests over the years for undermount sinks in laminate tops mostly from budget minded clients
a process was published in FHB a few months ago but i couldnt find my copy so i just experimented
basically it in volves removing substrate(leaving the top laminate) and replacing it with a waterproof material that also looks good
i made a template as described above and used it to cut a sink shaped dado in the bottom of the countertop about 1/2 inch wide and full thickness of the partical board leaving the laminate untouched
i filled the groove with westsystem epoxy
then cut the sink opening with my router and template
the exact details about guide bearings etc for the groove i cant remember but the groove for the epoxy was such that about an 1/8 inch of epoxy was removed when cutting the sink hole, leaving plenty for waterproofing the edge
i'll post some pics later in another thread if you're interested, i didnt wantto hijack this topic
Hi Yojimbo
I just did a undermount sink in 1 inch Richlite, which I think is like Paperstone. I learned a few things.
Use a 1/2 inch shank White pattern bit.
You will need a good router.
Make the template, from the paper one, out of 1/2 Finnish plywood.
Trim it close to the line with a jig saw. This stuff is harder than you can imagine. A 2 -1/4 horse router with a 1/2 inch bit is scary if it gets away from you. Don't ask how I know that :)
Use clamps, not tape, to hold the template.
Use hardened cabinet screws & predrill everything.
I would like to thank Steve and Tugzz for their feedback. I feel much more confident now tackling this project.I would also like to comment on the overall positive attitude exhibited in this forum community. The desire and patience to pass on knowledge is very evident.