Replies

1. 
   marv | Dec 05, 2007 04:34pm | #1

   Score it with a utility knife, pare the joint wider with a chisel, cut it with your choice of saws.

   You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

   Marv

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 05, 2007 04:44pm | #3

   marv...thanks for your suggestion...that is a plywood shelf and I fear the chisel may put too much "pounding" into the cabinet, if you know what I mean.

2. 
   Shoeman | Dec 05, 2007 04:40pm | #2

   I'd use a Fein Multimaster

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 05, 2007 04:47pm | #4

   Would that require a freehand cut? I think I would be more comfortable with a guide.

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 05, 2007 04:56pm | #5

   If you are more comfortable with a guide - guide the multimaster blade along a board or aluminum angle or something.

3. 
   DDay | Dec 05, 2007 05:06pm | #6

   make a jig and use a router.

4. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 05, 2007 05:08pm | #7

   Couple of questions first.

   Is that going to remain an open shelf?

   Do you have plans for finishing the edge of the shelf after the planned cut as well as the vertical portion where the finger pointer is?

   What are the plans for capping the wainscotting?

   I would start over with the wainscotting by removing the short corner piece under the shelf, building out the wall to meet the edge of the shelf and use a thin laminate to cover the end of the shelf. Alternately, the wainscotting cap could be the finished edge of the shelf.

   Then I would replace that wainscotting and cut another piece to replace the one already cut and butting at the front corner. Do you have a plan to trim out that front corner?

   Next, apply whatever you are going to use as a cap and then apply a trim piece, like a jamb extension, to the vertical side of the cabinet.

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 05, 2007 05:11pm | #8

   the finished egde of the shelf is going to incorporate and blend into the wainscot cap, one in the same..........

1. 
   Dudley | Dec 05, 2007 05:24pm | #10

   Steve -- can you redesign the wainscot cap so it had a rabbet that can overlay the shelf?

2. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 05, 2007 05:41pm | #11

   That's good.

   Save yourself a lot of extra work by skipping the cutoff.

   Build out the wall under as in my prevoius post so the cap reveal matches all around and just trim the vertical edge of the cabinet.

5. 
   JTC1 | Dec 05, 2007 05:14pm | #9

   Certainly not the easiest place to cut.

   Cover cut area with painter's tape, score with utility knife, batten guided jig saw with a flush cut blade?

   I think no matter what approach you take - some hand sanding with a rigid block to final size will be required.

   Jim 

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
1. 
   steve801 | Dec 05, 2007 06:29pm | #12

   the flush cut blade sounds appealing.......

6. 
   Waters | Dec 05, 2007 06:36pm | #13

   Your excuse to buy a multimaster.

   Clamp or tape a guide to it and buzz away.

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 05, 2007 07:19pm | #14

   i was thinking the same thing........do you have one? and what type of blade is applicable here?........that's an oscillating blade? are you happy with it?

1. 
   Waters | Dec 05, 2007 09:01pm | #15

   I have one.  I'm actually thinking to sell it and upgrade to one of the new ones.  Let me know if you're interested. 

   Their kits now are named "start," "Select" and "top." The tool you want is variable speed, and oscillates from like 12-21,000 (that's three zeros) Oscillations per minute.  I bought mine two years ago and I use it daily for carpentry and remodeling.

   There are lots of blades--basic kits come with a variety.  The blade I'd use to cut straight and smooth is a circle with one side cut off.

   Here's what multimaster cutting blades look like:

   http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/fein/mm_sawing.htm?L+coastest+tkxk6123ff90c590+1196940599

7. 
   cynwyd | Dec 06, 2007 12:24am | #16

   1. Install a straight cutting guide between the cabinet uprights. This can be wood, no more than 3/4" high.

   2. With a fresh utility blade score across from one side to the other.

   3. Make two more passes.

   4. Make a 30 degree cut to the bottom of your first cut. Remove the triangle offcut.

   5. repeat 2 & 3

   6. repeat 4

   7. After removing 3 offcuts you use a sharp chisel to remove the ply above the bottom of the cut .

   8. Continue till the ply is gone.

   9. If when the cut is done and you need to correct the squareness to mate up with the cap makeup a sanding jig of two pieces of wood at right angles. Affix PSA sandpaper to the upright face, leaving the flat face that will ride on the shelf as plain smooth wood.

   Really won't take that long plus you can't have anything go terriblly wrong after you establish the initial clean edged trough the cut will continue where you want.

    

    

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 06, 2007 01:10am | #17

   that's an interesting approach...thank you

   i will try it out on scrap plywood first..........thanks again

8. 
   DonCanDo | Dec 06, 2007 01:36am | #18

   I kept thinking about it because it's an interesting problem.  My first thought was a MultiMaster with a guide, but even with that it's going to be hard to make to make a finish cut.

   Here's another thought:  Forget about making a nice cut.  Hack it out so it's shorter than the sides of the cabinet.  you could do this easily by using a hole saw to cut a hole on either side and then connect the holes with a recip saw.

   Now that you've made a mess, cut the proper size shelf and lay it on top of the shelf that's there.  Double up the front edge of the new shelf so it hides the ragged edge.  And Bob's your uncle (always wanted to say that).

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 06, 2007 02:02am | #19

   I appreciate you putting so much thought into this...I do however have to maintain that shelf, because the wainscot cap is going to run, continuously from the wall through the shelf and to the next wall...........who's bob?

1. 
   DonCanDo | Dec 06, 2007 02:08am | #20

   http://alt-usage-english.org/excerpts/fxbobsyo.html

   Can you spare 1/4"?  Because if you can, you can still use my suggestion by adding a layer of 1/4" plywood.  If not, well then, I guess I don't know who your uncle is after all.

1. 
   steve801 | Dec 06, 2007 02:20am | #21

   thanx........i'm gonna sleep on it and look for uncle bob on the night train...

9. 
   DanH | Dec 06, 2007 02:33am | #22

   Yep, this job is made for a Multimaster

   If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
10. 
    DanH | Dec 06, 2007 02:35am | #23

    Yeah, you could use a router with a large dado bit end-on, at least on the near side. Would probably splinter the shelf, however.

    If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader