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The best way I’ve found is to start with a circular saw (I use Skil 6.5) then finish with the Sawzall equipted with a metal cutting blade.
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The best way I've found is to start with a circular saw (I use Skil 6.5) then finish with the Sawzall equipted with a metal cutting blade.
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Fein detailer with a blade in a knife scored line.
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Mini backsaw in a knife scored line if the base is the small stuff and pine or poplar. Big stuff, bigger methods. You might have more control with the hand saw. The power methods take a little getting used to so you don't butcher it. Pick your poison. Best of luck.
*There's probably no absolute right answer: I've used an Exacto saw (a razor saw blade that goes into the largest Exacto knife stylus). The blades come in a couple of widths and tooth-counts, you'll want the biggest. I saw as much as I can and then finish the back/bottom of the cut with a Stanley utility knife. It's best to pre-score the face with the same knife.
*Cut it long & pare it down with a chisel..(A very sharp one)
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After I mark my cut line on the base, I tack a 2x block on the line(on the cutoffside if I am thinking clear that day)then make the cut with a Japanese handsaw. Mine is a fine cut and about a foot long. Clean,fast and easy to control.
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There's another thread about this somewhere. I use a jig saw and plunge cut starting at the top. A sturdy saw and a stout, fresh blade help.Absolute best is to remove the base and chop it. Jeff
*also, pry the base out enough to slip a pc of plam behind before you start your cut. Saves the wall finish.
*I've done quit a few of these and always put it off until last because its a hand tool operation. The Japanese saw is the best -- I use something similar -- an old fine toothed back saw with a stiff back. Just watch the heel of the saw and the job is done with about 5 minutes of effort. all the best.
*Sharksaw brand now makes a saw called a "Pullsaw" that is similar to a one-sided japanese saw, but with a pistol-grip handle. There are two models, regular and fine toothed. About 25 bucks. Works very well for this kind of thing.Steve
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I like those "Shark" brand pullsaws pretty well. A good alternative is one of those Stanley saws that look like a drywall saw but hold a 6" recip saw blade instead. They are a little easier to start the cut with, and smaller for tight quarters.
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I just had to do a bunch of these on 5+1/2" base on plaster walls to widen a bunch of doorways for handicapped passage. Calvin told me to pull the base out far enough to slip plam behind it and cut the base with a backsaw. I was skeptical, but tried it and I'm here to tell you it worked great. Thanks again BC. (I did have to finish up with a sharp chisel though 'cause I was working on hardwood floors)
*Get a jamb saw. It has a zero clearance.
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I prefer the model 231x portable laser base cutter. Just make sure you adjust the cutting thickness to the thickness of the base.
*this is just the job for the Rotozip, mark the line and use the sabra blade
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Actually you can set the depth 3/64" deeper than the depth of the base if the wall is 5/8 fire-x drywall, the paper burning smells though, be sure to use the force....
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I just thought I might add a different twist to this subject. Would it be possible the scribe the casework to the baseboard / wall? I have done it both ways, I guess you pick your poison.
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I have never even seen a "portable laser base cutter"; I don't know if that's because they just haven't caught on in this area, or maybe I wasn't in the right place at the right time. But I'd like to ! Could I prevail on you to give me a brand/manufacturer so that I can learn something new.
*If you can incorporate a base or toekick, scribe that to the baseboard, I think that would be a nice touch. If ever someone moves the thing, they won't be bitchin about the goofballs that chopped that pc. of base. Door openings, different story. You are one sharp cookie.
*Try scoring the base with a utility knife. With a metal cutting blade in backwards use a sawsall.
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Ya Calvin, I was thinking that it is nice to consider that things get re-done after time and it is better to leave the original features, and it is often faster and neater to scribe the cabinet.
And besides, I have enough people calling me a goofball.
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Fred, I have to do this task on a near daily basis. I use the Bosch inline jigsaw, prescoring the base with a knife line. The tool is really a mini sawzall with a LOT of guts to it,offering knifelike control and full visibilty in the cut zone. Because the body is so much smaller, you can fit it into much tighter quaters. My old Milwaukee sawzall has only seen daylight 5-6 times since I aquired the Bosch, 'cause I don't get to do much framing nowadays. Jack
*Hi Fred Thornton.I almost always find it best to remove any mouldings that might be in my way.However, that is not always possible...In the instance you describe, I might make score with knife to about 1/8" into material, then drill small holes to the side of that mark. Then, finish with a chisel or knife.Hope this helps.alan joseph [email protected]
*Hey that's alright. Us goofballs gotta stick together.
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Suppose you're installing a bookcase in the middle of a wall, and you want to cut out a section of the base molding so that you can fit the cabinet tightly against the wall. What's the best tool and technique for cutting the molding without removing it? I've done it with a wide chisel (slow), and I've seen it done with a small circular saw blade in a side-grinder
(dangerous). Thanks for your ideas.