*
I need some easy (fast) way to cut forty 2×12 floor joists up even with the plywood sub-floor. I can use a circular saw to cut most of the way, but the shoe hits , thus leaving the last couple inches of joist uncut. Because the joists are on 12 inch centers, I cannot maneuver a reciprocating saw in there. I thought about a jig saw, but it still won’t get close enough, and a hammer and chisel is too slow. I cannot penetrate the sub-floor as it supports light weight concrete two inches thick.
Does anyone know of a tool that will do this job ? Al B.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Listeners write in about haunted pipes and building-science tomes, and they ask questions about roof venting and roof leaks.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Not sure I understand what your doing, or why...
But if I do, you can buy blades for the jigsaw that are wider with the teeth up front so you can cut flush. I would think your local hardware store would have one.
Rich Beckman
*I am sure you will get many opions, but I have this Bosch power hand saw I use when i have to cut something flush. Not sure if it will fit in where you need it to but its a thought.Bob
*Got a chain saw?Just be careful 'cause jamming the pointy end will cause kickback.I have an electric just for situations like this.
*Rich,Thanks for the suggestion, I'll see if I can find those jig saw blades.Now as to the why - I am replacing a floor support 6x10 timber beam with a steel I-beam. The reason is to create a flush ceiling and to eliminate in-room support posts. The floor joists currently rest on the top of the wood beam. The new steel beam will actually be slid in over the existing wood beam, so I need to create a void above by the removal of the joists. Of course the joists will be temporarily supported during this process! The new steel I-beam web will be appropriately laminated with 2x material, allowing HD simpson hangers to be used to attach the joists to. I'll then remove the old timber beam and the temporary joist supports. The new beam is coming in through the side of the house. The neat part about this job is using the old beam as the "runway" for the new beam. For a while I was trying to think of how to made scaffolding to support the new beam as it came in, but then Viola!
*Porter cable may already have thier new recip. saw out. It articulates behind the blabe and the head rotates a full 360. I think it fits in a 10 inch space when folded over. Be the ticket for this type job, or if it is not out, then the Milwaukee recip. that folds might also work. Good excuse to buy another tool.
*Al, I have several of those blades in my toolbox for the old Sears jigsaw. That's where I bought them many years ago. I'm sure somebody still makes them. You can cut most of it with a circular saw and finish the cut with the flush cutting blade.
*What about a panel saw or a 4" grinder with toothed blade? One good hammer whack on a 2" mortise chisel would clean up those last few inches, especially along the grain of the joist.
*Rich, Where can you get a "toothed blade" for a 4" grinder? That would be a useful albeit dangerous accessory. I want one.Mr. Bates, I cannot visualize exactly what your situation is but judging from the previous replies, it may be that you have access to the top [i.e. 1 1/2" width] portion of the joist and wish to cut them vertically down and conventional power tools won't fit. May I suggest using a hole saw? For instance, using a 2" hole saw, you would set the pilot 1" from your desired edge and in the center of the joist and cut downward as far as it will go. It's a simple matter to whack off the plug and contine downwards as far as you want to go. Of course, this will leave some projections but a sharp wood chisel will make short work of that. Or even use a power planer to square things up. -Peter
*I understand what you are doing. From under the ceiling you are cutting a notch out of the joists and you intend to put a steel I-beam in the notch.A hand saw works well. There are some nice tricks. Redesign the notch leaving a nominal 2x8 extension on the top of each joist. Set the joists on a 2x4 ledger. (You can add a 2x8 hanger if you wish. Now the top of the joist can be cut a bit sloppy.
*I'm still not sure whether this is a viable alternative but what about using a jamb saw to make the plunge cut at the end of each joist to your depth, cutting the run with your circular saw, then splitting off the remaining few inches with your hammer and chisel. The whole thing sounds strange to begin with so I may be totally out in Mars on this one but thought I'd offer another thought... Good luck.