We need to replace 4-5 boards in the middle of a freshly laid pre-finished oak floor that got gouged. HO did it but denies any knowledge. So we are just going to grin and repair it. She won’t accept a repair so we need to replace the boards.
Question is: Do we need to replace the whole boards or can I use the multimaster to cut some shorter pieces and butt in the new ones? Some of those boards are 6′ long. If so, what blade is recommended. I’m new to the MM.
Thanks,
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Replies
I've never used the MM, but have done what you need to do with a plunge router and 1/4" straight bit, and a straight edge to get a clean cut across the grain. Setup a straight edge guide and rout across the board, stopping just short of the long edges. Clean up the rounded corners with a sharp chisel. Use a circular saw to rip the pieces to be removed (painters tape on the sole of the saw to prevent scratching adjacent areas). Work from the outside of the area to be repaired towards the inside of the area so you can direct your router into the area that will be replaced. This is a PITA job, especially with prefinished material.
I would replace the whole board. just run a circ. saw down the middle of a board (two passes about 1 inch apart. break out that middle piece and you can pull the tongue and groove pieces out after that. Then the new board is installed by ripping off the bottom half of the groove side. you can use pl adhesive and a few finish nails from the face to fasten it.
never used a MM. maybe there is merit there but I have no experience with it to give an opinion. sorry.
Jason
"it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."
Bozini Latini
http://www.ingrainedwoodworking.com
It's a lot easier to remove a whole board. Replacing a 6' board with several 2's is also easier.
I use a circular saw set at 3/4" and cut as close as I can to the tounge side of the board, that way it cuts off the staples and makes for easier removal. Cut a bit further from the groove side so not to cut the tounge of the board you're not removing.
Chisel out the loose piece. Vacuum out the sawdust and wood chips, sink or pull remaining staples or nails. Be carefull not to damage the hardwood flooring!!!
The replacement board is glued into place. Leave the long tounge on and remove the underside of the groove plus 1/8th extra to make for an easier fit.
Tilt the board into place for a dry fit. You may need to slightly bevel the top of the groove side to make for an easier fit. Hammering in a tight board often splits the groove.
Once you are sure the board will fit (straight boards are best) sqeeze a ton of glue onto the subfloor and along the tounge of the existing flooring. Tap in the replacement with a rubber mallet. If there is excess glue coming up you are using too much, clean it off with a damp rag. Set some weight on the board, ie books, bricks, homeowners barbell weights etc. Leave on overnight.
"Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
I like your method, but we've got #15 felt under it so cannot glue to the floor. We should be able to tongue nail or staple all but the last piece going in. I think we've have to face nail that one as much as I hate to.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Is the floor over a crawlspace or wet area?
It will be a surgical remove to not disturb the felt.
The pieces going in could be back sealed with spar varnish a couple of days before the install, if moisture is an issue.
I've also had excellent, almost invisible results using a 23Ga pinner into the glued tounge. On one job I replaced 35 boards and could not find enough weight so I pinned the edge and hid the miniature holes along the groove. An 18ga would have split them."Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
cut the tar paper out under the last board and glue it you don't want to face nail pre finished in the middle of a floor do ya?
Not really.....just wanna do it right.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
I too would suggest just replacing the whole board, but that said..
The e-cut blade will do the cut just fine. Use a piece of scrap wood as a straight edge to get the cut straight, by holding the scrap to the floor and resting the blade against it. Otherwise the vibrating makes it difficult to keep it on the mark. Also, back-cut a little as you go in so the new piece of flooring fits snug at the surface.
Use a jigsaw to make 2 cuts lengthwise, about an inch apart as the other writer mentioned, and follow his instructions for inserting the new piece.
I suggest you test fit the new piece, sand it down if necessary so it's flush, then prefinish it before installing it. That way you don't end up sanding the finish off the adjoining pieces.
--------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.net
See some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com
I guess I need to order some new e-cut blades.
Thanks,John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
I've used the circular type blade for hardwoods on the MM. I score the cut line with a sharp knife and cut in to make a V. This gives a slot for the blade to fit into. You still have to finish the cut edges with a chisel. Hopefully, you pick a spot where there isn't a nail. Don't lean on the MM, you can fry the blade and they are expensive. Haven't tried the E blades yet. I wonder if I'm steady enough.
I had a plumber whack the cabinet door on a sink install. Customer withheld the final payment until it was replaced. It took eight weeks to get the correct replacement. I'm still POed over that one.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Don't lean on the MM, you can fry the blade and they are expensive.
Yes, let the tool do the work. Also a good idea to keep the blade moving to help eject the saw dust.
Haven't tried the E blades yet. I wonder if I'm steady enough.
Sure you are. What I do when getting the cut started without using a scrap board as a guide, I grab the MM with both hands and rest my wrists on the work piece, then just barely touch the blade to the surface to the the cut started. Once it's about 1/8" deep the blade stays in the slot pretty well. --------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com
Do yourself a BIG favor, replace the whole board.
John, if you don't use that MM on this job you might as well sell the damn thing.
FLOOR PATCHA Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
You da man. That's what I wanted to hear. I hate to replace a 6' board when I can put in a 2-3' piece. This patch is in the middle of a 16 x 20 room with a picture framed border. Just trying to make the job a little easier. I guess I'll order some e-cut blades.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
John, for this type of cutting I would not recommend the wide E cut. The narrower are a little easier to control freehand.
Also, the less expensive E "style" blades that are rated for metal (sortof) work ok, but the cut isn't as "fine". In a pinch-they'd do, but for fine finish the fine tooth is much nicer.
Best of luck.
I didn't repair in the middle of the field of floor in that Floor Patch link, but you should be able to pick up something in it.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Gotcha.
This one?
View ImageJohn
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Order them from this guy, he has really good prices.http://www.multiblades.com/flat-blades.html
These blades as good as the originals? Price sure looks better.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
I just ordered a bunch but have not had a chance to use them. They look good tho.
Of course there's been some changes since I got my MM. This is the precision blade. The fineeeeeee cutting edge.View Image
the one you showed is more of a standard tooth-probably works fine too.
The wood metal blade is a bit more coarse and I wouldn't have a problem using it and have for a decent cut. But if you've "finished" the replacement pcs (or they're prefinished) and aren't going to sand at all the super expensive might be warranted.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Edited 5/4/2008 6:35 pm ET by calvin