Cutting laminate (Pergo) flooring
geoffhazel
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I just finished installing 850+ sq ft of Pergo and it seems like it totally trashed the carbide blades on my table and chop saws. Is this par for the course? Do I just have to figure on replacing blades when putting this stuff in, or is there a better tool to use?
Replies
Yes and Yes!
I save the blades that are almost ready for the boneyard for laminate.
Have a good day
Cliffy
That's been my experience as well. After a while I was just burnin' through 'em. Trashed a fairly decent blade.
The question is: Is there a blade made that would work better? I don't relish the thought of using an old blade and making those burning cuts.
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Just par for the course. Add the price of 2 blade sharpenings onto the job.
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
Is it worth getting a 30 dollar 40T carbide blade sharpened or would you just replace it?
Depends how much your local shop charges. If you have to drive 50 miles and they charge 30.00 to sharpen then no. If if 4 blocks away and 8.00 then yes. Check around in the area.
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
Just before each job we go buy the $40 Dewalt blade twin pack. One 40 tooth carbide and one multi purpose blade for the table saw. After the job in the trash they go. Add the $60 to the job for you blades and mark up. DanT
I was looking for that exact twin pack at HD yesterday and darned if I couldn't find it. Had to go with 30 buck blades. But at least this was AFTER the install, so they should last a while.
Last job I did (700 sq ft) was eating laminate blades too.
Switched to the jig saw (cut pieces up-side down if you are really fussy)....Funny thing is that I finished the last 400 sq ft w/ the same jig saw blade.
What kind of jigsaw blade, the backward angled laminate blade?
What kind of jigsaw blade, the backward angled laminate blade?
Naw....the regular wood blade, but w/ the fineer teeth (+/- 21/in) and not too aggressive a tooth "hook"
Try a few......for a cleaner cut,....use high revs, and slower pushing.
I have used the backward angled laminate blade when making a cutout for sinks as well as just cross cuts of a laminate counter. No chipping and a VERY smooth cut. As I was taught, "don't push, let the tool do the work".
skip the dewalt blades... ther heavier,thicker,dull out quicker spend little more for the freud diablo blades theyr thinner and seem to run more balanced, last longer, worth doing resharp see if someone around sharpens by a polishing method insted of just grinding the blades hard started using a service like this, blades look and cut better Wear a mask wen cutting purgo, bad stuff goez airborn
Go with what DanT said, and then bid so high you don't get the damn job.
http://grungefm.com
Thanks for posting this question. I've been wondering why my Bosch 10" SCMS burns through everything lately. I did a small laminate job and a Trex Deck with it recently.
Sharpening a 60T carbide blade should cost at least 5 bucks, don't you think? :)
BruceT
I haven't worked with Trex yet (no kidding) -- does it trash blades like laminate flooring does?
Trex is prone to heat problems and it looks like my saw teeth are now coated on the edges with a film of brown plastic.Trex manufacturer recommends 24T in a 7 1/4" blade to avoid overheating, so I should have had a 40T 10" instead of the original Bosch 60T, but It was inconvenient to go get one, so...BruceT
I have had blades trashed by cutting laminate floor as well. When I brought them in to be sharpened, they told me that I would get a lot more life using a triple chip blade whenever I cut laminate.
Can't say how well the triple chip blades work - I haven't had a laminate job since, but, I will try one next time I do deal with that stuff.
Working on my own floor at night I noticed a trail of sparks each time I cut the laminate in the garage.
They make blades specifically for laminate. ( good for regular wood as well) I think Freud makes em.
I notice the problem seems to be the ugly very tough pitch build up that developes on each tooth. I used some blade cleaner that with a soft cloth and some elbow grease removed most of it, what woulden't come off, I took a small scrap of laminate and used it as a scraper. much inproved, but still need to resharpen at some point.
Yeah, I was wondering if there was a "best blade"... you can get 'em at HD online.
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?prod_id=100076841&cm_mmc=1hd.com2froogle-_-product_feed-_-D25X-_-100076841
There you go, The one I saw I'm pretty sure was a Freud , but same thing - designed for laminate. I would have bought it but, I alreasy had a coulpe good freud blades that were holding their own.
I wouldn't bother with a throw away blade. cheap blades are rarely worth the effort of even putting them on your saw.
The makers all use a coating that is, in effect, a ceramic. But a highly abrasive ceramic. Think silicon carbide.
It is tough as nails and will wear through the steel buttons that are used on the bottom end of chair legs.
That said, think of what it will do (and did) to your good carbide sawblades.
I believe that if you search enough you can find specialty blades that are good for working this material. It is worth it if you are going to be cutting Pergo and other laminates regularly. Otherwise, get a cheap carbide blade for each job, and kiss it goodby after.