Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 01, 1999 03:56pm | #1

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   Kevin,

   I think there was a recent post on this subject. It shouldnt even be in the archives yet. Scroll down or try a search.

   Rick Tuk

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 01, 1999 04:00pm | #2

   *Kevin,Do a search for "Crown Molding".The formulas are in there.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 02, 1999 05:06am | #3

   *Kevin, Would you happen to know what the spring angle of the moulding is?

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 02, 1999 06:53am | #4

   *Kevin, at $40 a foot (what is this, gold leaf?) I would spring for the Bosch electronic protractor/miter mgauge. You enter the spring angle (which you can of course measure with the device if you don't know it), the corner angle (again measure with the device), and it gives you the miter and bevel settings for cutting on the flat. Pretty much idiot-proof, which is why I got one (a decent-sized protractor would have cost $30 or so ... I talked myself into $100 for a crown job I'm doing now). If you scribble down the corner/miter/bevel combinations as you go you'll have a nice little table in no time. Or you could do it in advance with the formula and a spreadsheet. I prefer to fiddle with the numbers "in the field."

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 02, 1999 08:20am | #5

   * Kevin,

   Do you have to lay the crown down in the saw in order to cut it? If so, then you'll need the formula. If not, just set the moulding in the saw upside down and backwards with the plumb and level cut on the moulding held against the fence and table and cut it with the appropriate miter angle.

   If you need to find the angle of the moulding you'll have to do some work. Take a framing square and place the moulding so that it lays with it's wall cut against body and the ceiling cut lays against the tongue. Note what the measurements are on each side of the square. The body may read 6-3/8" and the tongue may read 3-7/8". You can use these numbers to draw a triangle, then using a bevel square measure the angle created by the wall measurement and the hypothenuse. Take it to you saw and read the angle made. Using the compliment of this angle will give you the ceiling angle.

   Or, you can simply do the math. Awhile back Mongo put the formula up for the FHB article that will help you figure the proper miter and bevel setting to cut this moulding.

   Joseph FuscoView Image© 1999."It is better to be feared. . . Then loved!" Machiavelli

2. 
   Guest_ | Dec 02, 1999 08:59am | #6

   *Joe, the irony? I "cleaned" my computer this past weekend, saw the formula hanging around and deleted the file. BTW, I picked up some urethane molding to mess with...interesting stuff. Thanks for the reference.Here's the formula one more time...

3. 
   Guest_ | Dec 02, 1999 04:03pm | #7

   *Joe That is the way I prefer to do my crowns. But Kevin said he was using delta sawbuck. Perhaps he should think about a new saw. Do you prefer to bed yours or lay it flat.Rick Tuk

4. 
   Guest_ | Dec 03, 1999 08:53am | #8

   *Andrew D. I,m curious. If you sprung for the Bosch mitre finder because as you say "it's idiot proof", why then are you using a formula to fiddle with the numbers "in the field"? Am I missing something here?

5. 
   Guest_ | Dec 04, 1999 06:56am | #9

   *No formulas, Mad Dog, they're just for armchair and sadistic stuff. I like measuring the actual angles (the current job has 90's, 45's, 60's, etc.) and then finding what actually works based on these. For example, I've found on this job that regardless of the corner angle my miter settings were a couple degrees off and bevel setting a bit off (for bevels and copes, inside and out, alike) ... leading me to think the 38° spring angle isn't coming out quite like I expected. I may be placing the crown flatter against the wall than intended, although it looks even enough. It's easy to mistake the errors as random because a miter saw that bevels only one way forces you to flip the work -- so sometimes the heel of the miter comes out long, but flipped it's the toe.At least the errors are consistent and predictable, so the #'s I have scribbled on the saw's plywood "table" will work out immediately if I know the corner angle. I'll figure out the details some other time... The angle finder is mostly useful because it is long enough to bridge the drywaller's inaccuracies near the corners. A lot of times it's easier (and more durable) to fix with mud and the correct cut than 20 trips to the miter saw.BTW, this house is an example of the modern insanity ... the laundry room (yes, crown in the laundry room) has 12 corners. The kitchen has 18. Well, good practice. The Bosch is mostly a toy, like i said I wanted a big and durable protractor.

6. 
   Guest_ | Dec 06, 1999 05:42am | #10

   *Joe I believe at http://www.delta.com they have a crown moulding calculator available for download free of charge I am also sure there are some share/freeware versions outthere if you look

2. 
   Kevin_Adams | Jan 04, 2000 11:55pm | #11

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   Help. I have installed quite a bit of crown molding and have always used the angles provided on my Delta Sawbuck for the angle settings with perfect results.

   My current project is with crown molding in which the ratio between the vertical and horizontal and vertical dimensions are "non-standard". At $40 per foot, I can not afford to do trial and error cuts to achieve the correct results.

   Does anyone out there know how to calculate the correct angle settings for outside and inside miters?

   Thanks