My circular saw doesn’t get close enough. I guess a sawzaw could work. But I was wondering whether there is a circular saw, perhaps similar to the Crain undercut saw, that would make the job easy? Never used the Crain saw – maybe that would work? Thanks.
Learn more about the pros and cons of single-room ERVs.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Ele. Chainsaw would be spiffy. There was an attachment for a conversion to flush cut circ saw, but I think I heard that it is no longer available or something like that.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"People that never get carried away should be"
crain works fine for that, just will not get all the way into the corners.
james
multimaster for smaller portions
Yeah, the Multimaster would be good for the corners.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
this is not osha approved...
go to local pawn shop and buy the best 10.00 saw in the place. now go in and cut the shoe from the blade out off and tear off the gaurd. have fun, be careful and as soon as your done with it,throw it so someone doesn't use it .
or do the chainsaw deal,figure your going to buy a new chain when your done. larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
I wouldn't suggest using a chainsaw or buying a cheap saw. Both of those tools are dangerous. The chainsaw ideas is just plain crazy. You are sure to hook a nail and possibly break the chain or throw the nail back into your face. I tried working with a full face plate back in the 80's for a week or two. I couldn't make it work for me. Theres just too many places where I cut that can't be done with that faceplate. The angles I cut at cause me to bind the saw dangerously with the extended plate. For me, it's a matter of safety. The plate has to be cut off. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
http://www.nextag.com/toe-kick-saw/search-html
http://www.nextag.com/rotozip-attachment/search-html
http://www.toolbarn.com/category/flushcut/recip-accessories/
dang man, are you saying that a Roto-zip is going to be able to cut a subfloor?
"dang man, are you saying that a Roto-zip is going to be able to cut a subfloor?"OK, I got a little carried away. That thing does look a little light weight - so much so that I decided not to buy one. Which, for a tool junkie means something. However, with enough patience and persistence it might be possible...
it works...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Edited 12/18/2007 5:10 pm by IMERC
Well ya, slow and easy it would prob get the job done. I'm was thinking of old inch thick 1x8s under a woodstrip floor.
Almost bought a Rotozip when they first became popular but seemed everyone who had one had a button go flying off somewhere
and despite how cool operating they looked on the ads they seemed lightweight and I couldn't bring myself to buy one.
Thinking I had Bammeritis at the time and that might have had something to do with it. ;o)
Thinking I had Bammeritis at the time
a lot of us got bit by that bug...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yup...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
My circular saw can cut the sub-floor flush with walls. Your extended table keeps your saw blade 1 1/2" away from the wall. I don't have that extended table because I saw it off as soon as I take the saw out of the box.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I get what you're saying about the extended base plate, but what about the guard? Do you remove it? Or do you angle the saw enough?
I angle the saw. I knew a crazy carpenter that had one cut to make. In those days, sawzalls were rare and we used to use a variety of methods: our saw without the extended plate, chisels, handsaws, hammer claws, etc. Anyways, this guy came up with a brilliant idea for his Porter Cable 508 which is a very heavy saw. He removed EVERYTHING. He basically was holding a motor with the blade and nothing covering it anywhere. He didn't have the base to properly give him stability.The results were predictable: he gashed the top of his wrist and hand with the first plunge. I think booze might have been altering his thinking because he was a very good carpenter.I don't operate my saws with the telescoping guard. That comes off immediately along with the extended plate. Yes, this exposes the blade underneath to the materials but that is exactly my intention. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
>> I don't have that extended table because I saw it off as soon as I take the saw out of the box. <<
Interesting.... Mind taking a pic of that and posting it?
I did post a picture once and someone complained and it was yanked. Email me and I'll dig you up one. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I think a toekick saw is what you need. It may be possible to rent one in some areas.
Along the lines of the chainsaw recommendations, you might wanna consider using The Scariest Tool in the Shop, AKA the Lancelot.
Works on an angle grinder. Lots of chips, no gas fumes, quick, impresses the ladies.
Count your fingers when you're done.
View Image
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I many cases, if the baseboard and/or drywall has been removed, you don't have to get that close. They will cover the difference when re-installed. It's also not much of an issue if carpet is going down or tile. I have an older Rockwell circular saw that does not have an extended plate to the right of the blade. You are still restricted by the arbor nut and the blade guard. You could always rent a toe kick saw, if you need a flush cut.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Those are the Rockwell saws that I started with. No extended tables.The guard and nut set the saw back about 5/8" nowadays, which is sometimes a perfect "fence" for cutting things back such as siding off a roofline. To make the cuts flush against a wall, we simply tilt the entire saw and go in at a slight angle. There is nothing tricky or dangerous about this, unless the user does not know how to handle their equipment from a fundamental point of view. It's kind of like riding a motorcycle: it looks very dangerous but once you understand the physics its actually very simple.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Riding th MC is simple, but still quite dangerous. I have been riding on and off since 1965 - knock on wood! - without a major accident.
You guys worry me, big time. I saw a guy today just after he cut half his left thumb off. Not a pretty sight. Becareful out there.
My old Rockwell is an 8", the blades spins for 20 minutes after you let go of the trigger. I bought it new for $50. Whatever happened to aluminum alloy tool bodies? They all used to be made that way. Tough saw, been through it all!Motorcycles are dangerous. You have to look ahead, where you want to go, not where you are. I hate winter.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I bought a Crain toe kick saw and it worked great. Finished off the corners with the multimaster.
I knew I'd never need the toe kick saw again so I traded it for something I think. I don't recall selling it but could have. The saw new was about 200 bucks from Tool Crib.
The 200.00 is a lot less than it will cost attempting to reattach a finger or two.
Rick,
Are the joists running parallel to the wall or perpendicular to the wall?
Does make a difference when using that chainsaw, doesn't it? And speaking as one who's gone through the floor (duh!) after sawing away some floor sheathiing, you have to be careful if the joists are parallel to the wall too.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
"Are the joists running parallel to the wall or perpendicular to the wall?"
Parallel one wall, perpendicular the other.
Parallel one wall, perpendicular the other.
What are you going to do where the joist runs parallel to the wall? Is there a joist directly under that wall, a joist right next to that wall, or is the wall in the middle of two joists?Joe Carola
i saw at harbor frieght today the make a toe kick saw for 60.00. might be worth it just to keep the blood factor down. larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
It's online for 39.99. Set to cut 3/4 material with a 3 3/8 blade.
Item 94626-4vgahttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94626
Edited 12/18/2007 8:39 pm ET by MarkH
I cant believe that OSHA would allow that thing out in the work place. My Makita slides perfectly flat at 5/8" off the floor. It is far safer than that tool. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
My Makita slides perfectly flat at 5/8" off the floor.
Yeah, but it wont saw subfloor out from under a cabinet toe kick. Which is the only place I would use it. I can imagine a kickback being very intimidating, even with that little blade.
Good point.I've never had to make that cut so that thought doesn't enter into my thinking. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I agree. It looks like an accident waiting to happen.
I don't know if I'm that worried about that tool being involved in an accident if a competent tradesman is wielding the tool. I was just amazed that OSHA allows it. I don't really think that OSHA cares that some tools can be used safely...they tend to structure their rules for the masses, not the artisans. I think they are an unnecessary intrusion in many instances. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I agree again. I thought that the tool definitely has some applications that I could deal with personally. It may sound hypocritical, but I thought about buying one for myself for an upcoming project based on the price. I think that I am a supercareful person with any tools. I have been pretty much injury-free since I first started using dangerous tools nearly fifty years ago. That does not mean that I am complacent; I have certainly had my share of close calls. I don't think it should be considered safe for the consumer market.
I don't think everyone out there has enough of a safety instinct or enough safety training to use some of these tools. Let's face it - we all use sharp knives, but many people don't see much danger in that. Every time I chop up a tomato or some onions, I think about my fingers and what could happen, never mind my power tools!
Fifty years without a major accident indicates a level of competence not normally found! Congrats! I too think about those blades every time I pick up any tool. I've had a few scary close calls. I've also avoided getting cut with the saws but a drill got me...for minor cuts on my hands. I've smashed myself enough with hammers and sledges to qualify myself as inept though.I think the drive in to work is far more dangerous than the actual work. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07