Replies

1. 
   JoeBartok | Feb 14, 2007 06:58pm | #1

   I don't know if this is the BEST method or not ...

   We cut logs on a cutting deck, a level outdoor frame with a plywood floor.
   Snap a reference line for the column length on the floor. Set the column on horses, find the center points on the ends, and shim and dog the column so the imaginary line through the center is level. Mark a reference line square to the length line on the floor where you intend to cut the column. Using a level, project to the line representing the cut to the column and scribe the cut line. Or, instead of a level, you can set up a couple of plumb plywood jigs following the cut line on the deck. Cut with a chain saw.

   To cut a compound angle the jigs or plywood templates are made to the bevel angle and staggered at the miter angle; the equivalent of a large custom made miter box.

   Joe Bartok

   
   

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   Edited 2/14/2007 11:00 am ET by JoeBartok

2. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 14, 2007 10:28pm | #2

   toss a tape down to the end and make a mark ...

    

   find a piece of paper ... cardboard ... coil stock .... anything flat that'll wrap around it fully ....

   wrap at the mark ... make sure the wrap flushes up with itself to make for a nice line all the way around ....

   draw the pencil line.

    

   did I mention this is done on a set of horses?

    

   one guy holds the circular saw as another guy or two rolls the column into the blade.

    

   Bang

   Done!

    

   works great for hollow columns ...

    

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 14, 2007 10:45pm | #3

   why not just use a speed square?LOLThe coil stock wrap is what I've been doing 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   MrSQL | Feb 14, 2007 10:56pm | #4

   I don't know if this is the best method, but I had 8 10" x 10' tapered fiberglass columns to cut.  Here is what I did:

   • painted them all prior to installation (2 coats) ; including the decorative caps/bases
   • just prior to installation of each I took a height measurement for that particular column.
   • mark that length every 2-4" around the column with a dash (measuring down from the top)
   • connect the dashes to form a solid line
   • cut exactly to the line with a diamond blade on a hand held circular saw (turning the column as needed and supporting the cutoff)
   • file off any inconsistencies with a long/coarse wood file that would bridge across the column cross section
   • at instalation I would shim with white oak heartwood shims (naturally rot resistant)

    

    

4. 
   CarpentrySpecialist | Feb 14, 2007 11:02pm | #5

   Attatch  1/2" plywood square to the top and use a story board stick against the ply to the length you need. Mark every 2" around. How long? Typically the taper adds a +/- 1/16" per foot to the story stick.    Use your common rafter scale and a little math to check if yours match. (Top Diam. - Bottom Diam.at 8'-0 down the length)/2= Rise inch per 8 ft. Its easier with a 12'-0 post but...  (Rise/ 8'-0) works too.

   If its 9'-0 tall use that.   Luck.

   Best to you and yours, Chris.

   Some say I know too much? Can you ever?

1. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 14, 2007 11:06pm | #6

   Oh No!

    

   that means my columns might be off by as much as a full 16th !!!

    

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   CarpentrySpecialist | Feb 14, 2007 11:32pm | #7

   You're kidin', Right?Best to you and yours, Chris.

   Some say I know too much? Can you ever?

1. 
   JoeBartok | Feb 14, 2007 11:58pm | #8

   A couple of pics of compound angles cut using the plywood jigs (a.k.a. "miter box").Joe Bartok

5. 
   DougU | Feb 15, 2007 07:46am | #9

   Are these columns going to have capitals/bases on them?

   If so and the cut doesnt have to be dead nuts on I hold my tape like a sheetrocker and mark around the column and cut.

   You can lay it on the floor while holding your saw push the column around with your foot and your done. Presto magico - install.

   Doug

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 15, 2007 10:09pm | #14

   Just out of curiosity - would they be columns if they did not have capital and base? I don't knoiw. I just have it stuck in my head that it is only apost if straight with no embellishment at top and bottom...anyway, back on point, we just had a true old style set of columns of red cedar that required an actaul supporting compression base and cap and all the acurrate cutting to fit.We use a grinder to fine tune the fit for something like that.( Oh, and final shim is a bit of PL premium, LOL) 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   dieselpig | Feb 15, 2007 11:56pm | #15

   While we're at it.....

   How do you go about attaching your railings to FG columns?  View Image

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 16, 2007 12:31am | #16

   small angle metal with through bolts - holes oversized to avoid stress on the composite. add a dab of PL 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   dieselpig | Feb 16, 2007 12:46am | #17

   Good idea.... I'm always at a loss as to how to go about it.View Image

6. 
   MarkH | Feb 15, 2007 03:10pm | #10

   Sharp eye, and a chainsaw?

1. 
   IMERC | Feb 15, 2007 03:14pm | #11

   is the chainsaw chain dull???Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   Tom69 | Feb 15, 2007 06:39pm | #12

   Dull chainsaw sounds like the BEST way to me. That's what I'll do. Thanks!

2. 
   MarkH | Feb 15, 2007 07:44pm | #13

   Not on MY SAW!