You all know how I hate to find these weak sisters used for anything other than screwing up drywall material.
Today I took apart an oak dining room table – faux trestle style – so I could cut it down for folks to a shorter length.
It had been put together with, [drum roll please] SR screws.
Of the twenty four screws I removed, five had been snapped off. I spent more time getting shanks out than anything else I did with the table. The more critical joinmts fortunately had dowels glued in too, or somebody would have been hurt long ago.
Use screws made for the purpose please!
Have a good night all.
.
Excellence is its own reward!
Excellence is its own reward!
Replies
pif- my new screw thing are g.r.k's with torx heads, was assembling a m.d.f. bending form around 6" wide, 19" radius with 2" screws no pre-drilling these babies sunk them selves. very strong and.... expensive at my lumber yard 32.00 for 5 lbs. but i'm sure they can be had for cheaper. but for those special applications ya can't beat em'.
You the be right bear
GRK - the screws to use
http://www.grkfasteners.com/
Nails -maybe one
but I doubt it
.
Excellence is its own reward!
I sent my helper to a hardware store because I ran out of screws to mount kitchen cabinets. Gues what he came back with...Drywall Screws!!! I called the "expert" at the hardware store and asked him why he gave my helper s.r. screws when he said he neede them to mount cabinets. He replied that his guys always use them to put cabinets up without a problem. My helper returned the screws and I went elsewhere.
Richie
Just for the heck of it , Ill share my day since you had that detail.
I refinished some tables today in tha shop. Looks like someone had rubbed beewax on them and filled the voids in the oak for some reason . Dont ever use wax . Use polish. I went down to full strengh amonia before I was able to boil it out , after I had coated it once and failed. Of course I cant buy commercial stripper either , the Butts. EPA. Now I have to work on them tomorrow .
Tim Mooney
What a bad run of luck there buddy. Yesterday it was Bobcat under your skin, today, it's beeswax in your pores...
May tomorrow be brighter!.
Excellence is its own reward!
Tim
Dont ever use wax on furniture?
What are you supposed to use on funiture but wax? Maybe not so much of it but lemon pledge is not what you want on your furniture. I'm not sure I get your post.
Doug
P.S. To get rid of wax buildup on furniture use mineral spirits, desolves it nicely
Edited 3/11/2003 12:54:01 AM ET by Doug@es
"P.S. To get rid of wax buildup on furniture use mineral spirits, desolves it nicely"
Soaks in . Try it . I used mineral spirits disolvable stripper. Thats how I know . I washed with mineral spirits after the stripper. Ive known about wax for a long time since my time in a body shop spending time with a friend.
Tim Mooney
Maybe there's some confusion. Are you saying to never use wax on furniture, even if it's been finished with another surface, such as oil or polyurethane? Or don't use wax as a finish by itself? I've been making furniture for over twenty years, and every piece has two coats of wax as the last step in the finishing process (at this point, it's a 9-step process.) Have never had any problem with the wax. But I don't do much work with oak, which is ring porus; which has a tendency to suck up finishes and make them uneven (and causes stain to bleed.) The few oak pieces I've made, I've started the process with a paste wood filler (such as Wood Kote or Behlen's Pore-O-Pac) to fill in the pores. Seals up the grain, and renders a dead-flat surface for finishing. Have also used the same on walnut and mohagony, other open grained woods.
Probably where we are at is laquer . The tables were refinished with laquer which will not do a job over traces of wax. The wax was inbedded in the pores and had to be boiled out . Sanding also went down to raw wood after the strip. The finish was unsuccessfull until I stripped again and boiled with amonia . At the point I did that I had remembered what my friend had said about wax on car finishes. Almost impossible to strip, only with amonia. Polish is easy to strip from a car . Thus his advice. An oil finish or a varethane finish would not have been effected over the contaminated surface at least to the naked eye. I could have done either one of those finishes and got by , but that wasnt the orders. Polyurethane would have also failed over the contaminate.
Tim Mooney
Piffin....You sure you didn't break those SR screws backing them out,I think that must have been what happened......heheheheee