I am getting ready to trim out the windows in my new house. I have all Kolbe & Kolbe double hungs w/ factory installed jamb extensions for a 2×6 wall. My first question is about getting the extensions, which stand proud about 1/8″ to 1/4″, flush with the finished drywall. I was thinking about attaching a flat piece of plywood to my router base and setting the depth of a mortising bit flush with the plywood. I could then follow around the outside of the extension, trimming things even with the drywall. Is there an easier or faster way? Everything will be painted, so a perfect fit is not required.
Second question is how to attach a sill. I was thinking biscuit jointer, but the seam will show up eventually. I’m not sure where to go with this one. Any thoughts? Should I remove the bottom extension?
Thanks for all the help.
Craig
Replies
Jamb extensions are usually made to stand proud about 1/16", Generally they end up any where +/- 1/8". There is some play in this when you set the window, (better to be proud then recessed) but I very rarely find i need to remove any material from an extension. There is always waviness in the drywall/framing and the gap at the back of the trim is never noticed as long as it not to big. If there are unsightly gaps that cant be ignored, 1st ,curse the sheetrocker, 2nd ,decide whether to caulk or mud. If it is being painted caulk should be alright as long as it is done right. "Planing" the surface out with a knife and mud is fairly labor intensive but would be the best way to go for stain grade.
The real trick here is to set the window in the hole right and tack through jambs. Then, no worries.
As far as the sill goes, It probably doesnt need bisquits but, I've never delt with that brand of window and there to many variables for me to say, good luck.
I too am installing K & & dbl. hung, metal ext. , wood int. units in my new house. Here's where I'm at so far.
I set all window and door units from the exterior w/ galv. screws, (always leaves me with flexibility). Next, prior to insul. and cover, the security sensors and wiring was installed. Then the GWB was installed and finished.
Now to deal with the liners being prowd of the GWB. I cut squares of 3/4" ply (4" x 4") and screwed them to the perimeter window framing lapping over the liners. This then draws the unit outward and flushes it out with the GWB. There is flex in the vinyl flanges. And I also have not installed the exterior trim at this time. Once this is done the liners can be shimmed straight, square and nailed off. I then inject the perimeter w/ my Hilti foam gun (exept the large void at the bottom where I used batt insulation.
And there I am , all locked in, flush w/ the GWB and ready for trim-out!
I will also use my biscuit joiner to attatch the extended bottom sills. I typically use an 'ell' shaped cawl screwed to the framing below the window to hold them in place.
Good luck!
I use a block plane.
Excellence is its own reward!
If the jambs stand proud too much your casing mitres will open up. Thusly, the corners are most important. Block planes work well to alleviate this issue. (kudos to all) If the jamb extensions arent assembled with glue I would probably remove the bottom jamb and cut a new sill with appropriate horns. I dont know if your material is paint grade or oak. (painted or stained). if painted, birch veneer jamb legs make nice window stools. if stained, find matching material. Good luck!
"If the jambs stand to proud your casing mitres will open up"
Very simple trick to the trade here, but if you havn't figured it out yet I cant tell you.
"if you dont know it, I cant tell ya";
the tricks I can think of involve either; Shimming the corners which opens a gap between the casing and the wall to close another gap. (fine in lower end spec and tract homes but if people want premium work and are willing to pay a premium for it they deserve my best attempts at perfection even though it can't be attained.) Ive pretty well had my fill of being embarrassed by work that other people have done because theyre more interested in the money than the final result! :(
or;
back beveling the miters slightly wich allows the front of the miter to close. I do this when using veneered jambs or extension that wont allow for planing. Personally I think it is easier to plane the jambs to fit (when solid jambs are used) than to adjust my saw endlessly.
I'll be the first to admit that im less experienced than alot of you guys out there. So, if there are better tricks and anyone would be interested in sharing them I would love to hear from you. Im here to share ideas and to gain input from people who come here to share it.
n||nnTired of being the nail!!
"Very simple trick to the trade here, but if you havn't figured it out yet I cant tell you."
Next, I bet that your going to say that Splinter can't join your girl-hating treehouse club...
Jon Blakemore
Everything will be painted. What exactly are "birch veneer jamb legs"? I was planning on using 5/4 poplar for the stools but am always interested in alternatives.
Thanks again.
I have used a router set up similarly to trim extensions --it works great,leave a little to clean up with a plane. One problem that may arise...wdw. to close to corner so you can't get router in. If you want to add a sill it is nice to remove bottom ext.if possible(one reason to hate pella casements---a long story!) A sill can sometimes sit on top of ext. , thinner material may help.