Replies

1. 
   Frankie | Jun 11, 2004 09:41pm | #1

   2" maybe 3".

   It's sturdy now but after a few rains, some drying, exposure to hot and cold weather and traffic there WILL be movement and the wood will do whatever it wants to do. Then it will no longer be sturdy. That's why you installed framing below the deck.

   F

2. 
   Duey | Jun 12, 2004 04:54pm | #2

         My inexperienced opinion would be that 12" would be just fine. If they were regular 2x6's I would agree with the previous post, but the fact that they are T&G is a different issue. They should hold together very well, as it would seem odd that they would all warp in the same direction. You could also attach a 2x4 or 2x6 on edge, underneath the outside edge of the deck boards, with a couple of screws through each deck board. This would give the outside ends a lot of stability as far as any individual board trying to warp or twist. Plus it would give it a finished trim look.

         If you ever did have any problems with it, you just chalk a line and cut them off and you're out nothing. It seems worth a try.

                                                                                                        Duey

3. 
   tkh | Jun 12, 2004 05:00pm | #3

   2 feet seems like alot of cantilever, but hey, if its sturdy, go for it. It can't be worse than the long gable overhangs you see on roofs that have 2x6 T&G decking. Frankie is right in that the wood move so I suggest that you fasten a joist under the ends and nail a few "outriggers" from that one to the last one on the deck.

   This is okay to do IF the deck is on your house. If you experience problems with it you can make the repairs as necessary. Don't take any risks if it means unsatisfied customers

   "A contented man enjoys the scenery of a detour"

4. 
   rez | Jun 12, 2004 05:07pm | #4

   That's a good question. T&G makes it a bit diff from the norm.

   If you were to try it I would think a 2x2 trim piece covering the ends would help dress it up a bit and help solidify the possible tweaks down the road a time.

   If I were to attempt that I'd feel more secure with 12" as 16" seems really pushing the envelope. 8" or 10" preferred.

   Be a freebird tho'.

   Bob, you've been around here long enough. Why don't you fill out your profile a bit and at least tell us what state you are from.
1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jun 12, 2004 06:17pm | #5

   I figured out the real issue.  I think it would be plenty strong at a foot overhang since its 2x T&G.  Wouldn't try it with regular 5/4 deck. 

   It looks funny.  Your eye expects to see something under there.  Looks real strange if you leave it at a foot, which is where I was planning.  Looks pretty strange if you even do 6 inches.  Maybe it won't look as bad if I put a kick board underneath, but that "floating" look is not attractive.  Yes, its on my house so I can fix it when I please.  I suspect I'll probably cut it back to my usual inch.  Maybe 2 since its heavy decking.  Oh, well.  Good plan while it lasted.

5. 
   DougU | Jun 12, 2004 09:19pm | #6

   Bob

   We used to build our hay racks with the wood overhanging about one to 1 1/2 feet. It wasnt treated and it was only rough sawn 1" thick wood. Like someone else said, you could put a 2 X under it and screw it to the deck boards, would probably control the warping some.

   Doug

6. 
   Piffin | Jun 13, 2004 12:24am | #7

   If I were leaving that with more than about 4-6" overhang, I wouild turn a perimeter band onto it by dadaoing another groove into the cut ends and then glue and screw a 2x2 tongue onto it to tie them together.

   Even wirh that, I wouldn't expect to leave it more than a foot or 14" and be satisfied.

    

    

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7. 
   SRToolguy | Jun 13, 2004 01:39am | #8

   The rule of thumb is 1/2 the distance of the spacing between your joists. T&G could probably go out further but not all that much because you will be jeopardizing the load rating of the deck area.

   Sincerely;

   The Tool Guy