OK, I’ve built 4 decks now and I always run into the same issue: the variations in lumber width.
Say I build a deck with 6×6 posts in the ground, 2×10″ built up beams on top of the posts, and 2×10 joists on top of the beams ( I’ve been placing my joists on top of beams mainly because it allows me to build free standing decks next to the house without a ledger board – I can set my post holes back from the house a foot or so, then cantiliver the joists to to reach the house–also, it seems to me this would be a stronger structure than joists attached to beams with joist hangers. ).
What I keep running into , as I’m sure everyone does who uses wet PT has found, is lumber width variations. The PT 2×10’s that I use can have actual dimensions anywhere from 9-1/8″ to better than 9-1/2″. So I find myself doing a lot of planing at the beam stage and at the joisting stage. I really want to end up with a level, flat framed strucure so my decking is flat so I do the planing. I’ve thought about sorting all the lumber according to width, but at some point I still will have to deal with the variations.
I’d just like to get a few perspectives here, as I work alone, and don’t have the benefit of a “second set of eyes”.
Thanks all,
Dave
Replies
Sorting it first and notching the ends is no doubt easier on you and your tools than planing each joist to fit.
As you can tell, pt lumber is made and graded for utility, not for good looks and even dimensions.
Here's the way we do it.
If you don't have a source for PT that's been dried after treatment……..buy well ahead of time (two weeks at the very least, a month is much better), stack and sticker each piece on site, under tarp or roof so that no rain or direct sunshine will strike the lumber and so that there is good air flow to dry out the wood. This is "free moisture" and not cell-bound moisture so it doesn't take as long.
The objective is to have the lumber at EMC when you build. Failing that and instead having pieces carrying different/varying amounts of moisture, even notching, ripping or planing the lumber for a flat plane now is no assurance that when they all eventually dry down…that there will still be a flat plane.
Needless to say, if the frame structure can't all be erected before rainfall, you should protect those pieces that are installed from absorbing that water….as well as keeping the rest "under roof" until it is installed.
May seem like a hassle, but you're less likely to get a hernia once the stuff is dried down and it'll be easier to get clean cuts, too.
I gotta admit......I`ve never run into this problem.....not to the extent you describe anyway.
Where are you buying your lumber?
Greatest variatian in dimension I`ve come across is a 1/4" at most. And still....that`s rare. I usually end up making note of such right from the get go. Use odd sizes in the built up beams.....or blocking....or box beams...or.....
If it were that bad, I`d be calling my supplier to swap them out.
As the previous poster mentioned.....having materials on the jobsite ahead of time to acclimate is a good idea. Gives you time to address such problems so that you don`t find out after its too late.
Screw Pete!
Gabe for Governor!
9 1/8" to 9 1/2"? Sheesh, I can cut down a tree and dress it with a broadawxe better than that. Acclimating your lumber before is definitely a good practice when possible. I'll notch, plane or rip as necessary but that's for the odd man out. If your lumber is that wild, complain, bitch and whine to your supplier. You might get some swaps and you might try another supplier who uses a measuring tape. Rough lumber is rough lumber but that's no excuse. I whine all the time about a 2x being so far from 2" but if the stock is at least consistent then it's not a big problem. Discounting variable shrinkage due to moisture content, loading and whatnot if your structure starts out that torqued what's it look like in ten years?
If you're building a self supporting deck, why not run the joists parrallel to the house wall? You can put the joists in with the widest closest to the wall and descending in width as you move out...instant water pitching!
I've also run into this several times when building decks and floor frames out of PT yellow pine...unless one piece is over 1/4" deeper than the one next to it, you'll be fine. Remember a PT deck is never gonna be perfect, not now, and certainly not 15 years down the road.Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling