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Kevin,
“they” make a tongue&groove treated deck board now, what about giving the whole deck a little slope, go with the t&G and in the chance that the roof did want to leak, 90% of the water would T&G right off of it?
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Kevin,
“they” make a tongue&groove treated deck board now, what about giving the whole deck a little slope, go with the t&G and in the chance that the roof did want to leak, 90% of the water would T&G right off of it?
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Replies
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Kevin,
"they" make a tongue&groove treated deck board now, what about giving the whole deck a little slope, go with the t&G and in the chance that the roof did want to leak, 90% of the water would T&G right off of it?
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Scary thing roof decks sounds like what you have in mind should work. Like the pitch idea from clay
*If you can, keep the sleepers high enough off the deck and leave the drain edge open so that the inevitable debris can be flushed out. I used stainless steel square-drive deck screws for the deck boards on project like this, just in case there was a problem later and the assembly could be disassembled rather than demo'd (no problem after four years).Good luck, Steve
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Hey, maybe put a line or two of silicone under the sleepers before you put them down. Seems like a job like that in a town you might be living in for more than ten years, might best be done over-over careful.
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Thought I would check in and see if you folks might have some additional thoughts on the subject.
I am going to be installing a 24' x 24' IPE 5/4" x 4" decking over PT sleeprs with a rubber buffer strip over a glued down Carlise rubber roof. I will build in sections so the decking may be removed when it comes time to fix the roof. I have reviewed what i am going to be doing with the roofer and he is comfortable with my plan. My deck posts will secoure to the perimeter of the roof so as not to penetrate the rubber. I am concerned that the rubber is glued directly to the roof sheathing but the roofer seems to believe this is O.K.?
So what do you think ?
thanks Kevin D.