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What is the deal with this? I have written 3x and keep having the page “expire” I am tried of explaining my problem!!!! I am building a house with an L-shaped deck on the 2nd floor over a bedroom. It is large (30×8 and 12×6) and cannot be surfaced with tile (too heavy). I need suggestions on surface (reliably leak-proof) and drainange (no gutters). I know I need a slant (3″ to 8′??) and know this is a problem…but I am committed and the view will be worth it(San Francisco Bay). I need help!!!
Has anyone solved this and lived with the results? Please help me. Connie
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Connie,
Whining really won't help. Reading the archives and past issues of FHB will though. This topic comes up frequently, and is a source of debate, since there are many ways to do this, and none are really a complete solution to the problem. Typically, a wood deck sitting on a slightly pitched roof composed of an EPDM (membrane) is a good solution. You need to talk to some local roofers, there are different thicknesses available, some will allow light traffic by themselves.
A little respect here will serve you well; we're out busting our butts all day, and you act like you are entitled to up to the minute responses from pro's for free. Not many of us get your million dollar view either, if you get the point.
M
*My God man, I think you've got it!
*After you put the flat roof over a living area in a fairly high rainfall climate, ya gonna sell it quick and promise never to tell who did the work for ya? Everybody can just vanish? There are some guys around here who could probably do a really good job on something like this but they dont seem to be lining up do they? Tell ya something? Ya say you're building it, then build it and stand behind it or keep your day job.JonC
*Gee, Connie. Around here that deck would have a 100-lbs/square foot live load requirement, by code. I can't believe the SF Area building code requirements would be much lighter.If tile is too heavy for your roof rafters the people (live load) might be too. Are you sure you planned this one right?b Been there, done that, can't remember ...
*ConnieYou'll find that for every roof deck a builder has installed they have ripped up two because they leaked. I have researched this for a long time and a consensus does not exist. Nine times out of ten, the primary reason is because the roof was not sturdy enough, it settled just enough and water found its way in. You have to get a good design, an experienced builder and roll the dice. Expect ten, fifteen years of life if you're lucky, five if you're not. Still worth it? Good luck.
*This is the company I used. Very helpful, quality product. Send them a drawing and they'll come back with recommendations and a quote:Resource Conservation Technology2633 N. Calvert St.Baltimore, MD 212181-410-366-1146 "Lynn"1-410-366-1202 fax
*Connie,There is asking, and then there is demanding. If you are paying for the advice then it is up to you whether you ask or demand. If you are getting the advice for free, then you have to realize that while asking may not get you an answer, demanding will almost certainly garner rebuke, not advice.I understand that you have asked 3 times already, as you said. Asking 3 times is still not paying for the advice. If you have gotten no good advice, you have no doubt gotten what you paid for.This forum is about, (as much as it is about anything...), asking for and recieving advice. This is true. But there is no guarantee that anyone will get the advice they want/need. The people here are here of their own free will, and they are not in any way required to answer any given question. Sometimes questions are not answered just because no one has any real interest in the topic. That's life. Sometimes no answer is given because anyone could find the answer to the question posed by simply doing a quick search of the archives. Sometimes a question is not answered because no one here feels they have any particular 'expertise' in that area.You already know, (by the other responses here), that yours was most likely not answered because you could have found as good an answer as you'll get here by searching the archives. Personaly, I did not take your post as whining. But I can see why it was taken that way by others. You have to realize that you are dealing with actual human beings here, who have all the potential for misinterpretation that you or I or any other person has. You may not have been whining, demanding, or stamping your virtual feet, but what you wrote could be, and indeed was, taken that way by some.I would suggest you take a step back, look at the whole situation from someone else's eyes, and think. Take a deep breath, then come back here and do some search and research. If you need any other help after that, don't hesitate to ask, but re-read your question post several times and try to see it the way that someone else might see it before you hit that 'post' button...From just the replies here in this thread, I can see logicaly the biggest problem you will have is in the roof structure. I would say that before you start to flesh out plans for the deck itself, you should look into what you can do to reinforce/bulletproof your existing roof structure. Next, concern yourself with waterproofing that structure before you begin the deck structure. Then finaly you can focus on the structure of a deck that will work with your existing conditions.I wish you the best of luck...
*David G is right -- I have used Resource Conservation Technology 2633 N. Calvert St. Baltimore, MD 21218, 1-410-366-1146 "Lynn" 1-410-366-1202 fax, on a couple of roofs. They have every thing, will ship, andthe stuff lasts. They have everything you need and are worth the call. EPDM is the only way to go on this sort of roof.
*Connie,First, do NOT put your railing posts on the deck: attach them to the exterior wall with a spacer so that edge metal can fully cover the deck edge.Slope the deck 1/4" per foot (2" in 8') Nail 5/8" ACX plywood with 10d ring shank nails (preferably Stainless) with a nailing pattern per local codes. All plywood edges must be fully blocked.Flash the edges with a 3x3 drip edge in bonderized metal, minimum 26gg, or if not avail, 24gg.Flash the deck/wall joint with with 3x3 bonderized. Flash the 2x4 door sill plate with a trimmed 3x3 up the 2x4 and cap it with a trimmed 3x3 comming back down.ALL flashing should be overlapped a minimum of 3" and "Wet-Lapped" with Sika 1A (i.e., caulk BETWEEN the overlaps and on the EDGES of the overlaps). Nail flashings 4" on centers with 1-1/2" galzanized roofing nails. (Using a coil nailer is a big help) After wet-lapping the flashing joints, cover them with a 6x6 piece of butyl tape (sticky on one side with a spun polyester material on top). This will insure a completely waterproof joint for the metal.Use Excelent Coatings Pedestrian Membrane for the surface:PATCHING COMPOUND: Apply to all plywood seams, nail holes, flashing edges;FIBERGLASS AND BASE COAT: Lay glass matting on deck: butt edges together and trim 1" short around flashing edges and deck to wall joints. Flood the glass with the liquid base and use a finger roller to fully saturate the glass with the liquid membrane and prevent bubbles. Dry time overnight.Apply patching compound to the glass seams. Repair any bubbles.Apply texture coat over glass/base coat. Allow to dry overnight.Apply 2 final coats a day apart.The Excellent Coatings system has been installed in the Anzo Borega desert and is still going strong after 20 years. Periodic cleaning with TSP and recoating every 2-3 years will get you a lot of mileage.EXCELLENT COATINGS, 800-473-3817, is located near Oceanside. Call Gwynn Stegen for an installer in your area.Good Luck,Bill Pickard
*Connie, buy Bill a beer or two and tell him thanks and I'll buy Luka one for being so sensitive!! I personally would charge you double for the attitude.Good luck with oyur project, Kimball
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What is the deal with this? I have written 3x and keep having the page "expire" I am tried of explaining my problem!!!! I am building a house with an L-shaped deck on the 2nd floor over a bedroom. It is large (30x8 and 12x6) and cannot be surfaced with tile (too heavy). I need suggestions on surface (reliably leak-proof) and drainange (no gutters). I know I need a slant (3" to 8'??) and know this is a problem...but I am committed and the view will be worth it(San Francisco Bay). I need help!!!
Has anyone solved this and lived with the results? Please help me. Connie