I’m building a deck 13′ along the house and 15′ out from the house. I would like to know how many footings I should place in the ground. The distance from the ground to the bottom of my slider is roughly 19″. Also, is 2×8 acceptable for the framing below? I want to use doug fir for the framing and cedar for the floor boards and posts/railings. Also am I asking for trouble by sinking the posts(cca) into the concrete? This is my first attempt at a deck and appreciate any input.
Rick
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Replies
Don't sink the posts in concrete. If you pour round concrete footings, stick an L bolt in before it cures, and you can bolt a bracket down that will accept the wooden post. As far as the number and spacing, your local conditions, snow loads, building codes, and proposed "live" loads will dictate that.
sounds like ya need a good basic deck book.
Or .. at the very least .. a set of basic plans to adapt.
Most lumber yards will have the plans ... most book stores will have the books.
I'd suggest reading thru a book first .. then come back with specific Q's.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Good point Jeff.
When I build my deck a few years ago, I purchased my lumber from Mans and they drew the plans for me no charge. All I did was give them the basci ldea of what I wanted and presto plans and a material list!
Good luck and have fun!
Home despot will design your deck for you...
and give you a materials list...even deliver the lumber for ya!
"You can do it, They can Help!"
Could even rent all the tools, auger, crete mixer, nail guns from the same place!
I was thinking more along the lines of a real lumber yard ....
even an 84 Lumber would qualify as better help than HD/Lowes ...
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
that was sarcasm my good man....sarcasm.
I knew that ...
wanted to make for sure the questionaires knew that.
besides ... U probably like HD because their parking lots are generally bigger ......
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Oh you're a ball breaker man..... too funny.
Nah, he has GF drop him off, and he rents thier truck.
even an 84 Lumber would qualify as better help than HD/Lowes ...
Bwahahahahaha........too funny dude.
Be a shlock shop
andyMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Deck books are a good idea Jeff.
I like to think outside of the normal retangular shaped deck.
Take 3' of the corners off, wrap around steps, benches, step and bench lights.....
Don't forget the fascia.....A deck does not look finished without it.....
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
Make a rough sketch and take it to the building Dept when you pull your permit. Make sure you get there during the inspectors office hours. He'll straighten you out.
Yeah, be sure to find out what permits/inspections you need. Around here any deck over 18" high needs a permit, and the footing holes have to be inspected before the posts are set or concrete poured.
I strongly recommend the book on decks by Schuster and published by Taunton Press. This has all the answers to your questions.
Rick,
Where do you live? Do you already know how deep you need to set your piers? Depending on depth and soil conditions, drilling those holes can easy or a real chore.
Jon
I would go with:
2 x 10 floor joists
triple 2 x 10 girder
O = footing
|<--1'-->O<----5'6''-----O----5'6''----->O<--1'-->|
Check with your Building Dept. first =)
Erik
4
Even funnier than Bucky's......where'd ya dig that one up from? Does the word IMERC come to mind?????????/lol
Be well son
andy
My life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
apperantly I crossed the line in the sand ;)
I thought it was funnier then all heck
What was......Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
the mickey mouse cartoon I e-mailed you last night
Never showed.......Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
ya know I should be napping... but I'll e-mail the attachemtn
Now what is it that I had what to do with what???????Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
youre gonna crack up when ya see this one Neil's gonna send ya..."My life is my practice"
Mickey with an attitude... Hooray.....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
Hey I assume your going to send that to me!
And I got the cd of Afgan, is it safe to load into my computer?
Doug
He sent me one too, but it ain't here yet. Let me know how yours works out, LOL....
Hey--we forgot about the guy's deck:
Three piers. One on each corner and one in the middle. Gives you a span of just over 6 feet. Use 8" sonotubes with bigfootses. Sink em to the frost line for your area. The inspector will know how deep that is. Use 4x4's for the posts.
For your joists and main beam: using #1&2 SPF you need a built-up beam of 3 2x8s; and you have a few choices for the joists--
If you set the joists on 12" centers and use strapping, use 2x12.
If you set the joists on 12" centers and use strapping and bridging, you can use 2x10.
If you set the joists on 16" centers and use strapping and bridging, you need 2x12.
Cover the top of each joist with a strip of 90# roll-roofing before you nail the deck boards on. Use a 20-d nail to space the boards if they're green, or a carpenter's pencil on the flat if they're KD.
For the ledger, lag bolt a doubled 2x6 to the house wall. If it's concrete, use lead anchors or Hilti's and set a pair of bolts every 36". If it's a framed wall, set one bolt into each stud. Use 5/16"x4½" lags with oversized washers.
Don't forget the flashing....
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Most certainly is...
It's the other side of the coin....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
2x12DF will give you a 70-80# load at L360 and a 17'6"span.
If you want to use 2 x 8s, you will be needing a midspan beam too.
If your live load requirements are less, then you might get byu with 2 x 10 framing.
As to placement of piers, you have to know your soil and frost, but definitely do not seat the posts in the crete. For a discussion of why not, search here under "fence posts"
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
As you've seen from the posts there are a lot of options for spacing, span, etc. Key to spacing is the decking material (i.e. what the deck material span). Here is a tool I am using to look at options for my deck frame:
http://www.wwpa.org/techguide/suite.htm
If you have Excel this will all you to play with different species, grades, spans to come up with a sound solution for your situation.