In the May 2002 issue #146 Arthur Chenoweth built deck railings out of Western Red Cedar and electrical conduit. I am planning on doing the same for my deck but am concerned about the cost of the Red Cedar. Does anyone have any suggestions on what else is available? Most of my spans are just under 10′. Thanks
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
Featured Video
Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by BrickHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
there's another post(s) in between that 10', right?
no turn left unstoned
I use VG Fir, Red Cedar, Fypon, Port Orford Cedar, and occasionally Pine for railings. Most often, we mill out selected PT SYP and paint it but that's coming to an end.
Anything worth using on a railing system exposed to weather will be way up there in price. Think of what you are asking from it...
Look good
Structural
Millable
Rot resistant
Stable.
I went to the yard today with the same search in mind for a railing where I'm adding onto a house and matching the previous rail which was pine but I don't have confidence that it will not rot soon exposed to the weather because the top rail is about 8" wide on this one. The water will puddle on it.
I looked at red Cedar, PO Cedar, VG Fir, Pine And Redwood.
I bought Red Cedar at about $5.40 - 5.60/BF
Didn't Mike Smith post a photo a few months ago showing a cap rail constructed with Trex? Seems it would be a good idea, esp. with Trex as the decking material. Sub-rail could be 2x4 PT.
Ken Hill
Ken - I've seen a couple of decks done with Trex railings. The decking was also obviously Trex. The railings looked nice, but the ones I've seen were well supported with only short spans in between posts.
I'm not sure if Trex would be able to span any where near the 10' originally mentioned, I could be wrong.....it's happened before.
SJ
Know a little about alot and alot about little.
No, a Trex rail will not span 10 feet without sagging. I replaced the rotting wooden 2x6 rail on my deck with Trex. It is supported every 30 inches, and I can see some sagging. It isn't enough to make me put wood back up -- zero maintanence is a Good Thing -- but I'm sure a 10' span would look like a suspension bridge after a couple hot summers.
I agree completely. Trex is what it is and it ain't structural from what I've seen.
Not much will look great after a few years spanning 10' without some other type of bracing.
I plan on using the cable rail system on my deck next year. Heavy wood posts with a nice clean cable system running parallel to the deck surface. The system looks clean and leave the view open (common along the water where blocking the view from the house with a solid rail system is a no no).
SJ
Know a little about alot and alot about little.
I agree that cable rail looks great. However, it doesn't meet most building codes any more. For instance, my local code says you can't push a 4" sphere through the railing, when you push it with 50 pounds. Cables deflect so easily that they'd have to be strung like a violin and be very close together, or have vertical tie straps every few inches. At that point, you may as well use welded metal fabric -- y'know, 1/8" wires on a 4" grid -- and that's what I see now.
That is really the only potential problem, however when I spoke with the lovely local building inspection office they didn't "think" it would be a problem. To me it seems like that might be a gray area.
We'll see, chances are they might let it slide a little, the deck will only be about 20" off the ground so it's not like we really need it for safety.....come to think of it we might be below the height where a railing is required....if not I could change the design a little and drop the main portion to whatever level would get me below that limit....then I can use whatever I want....hmmmmm.
Either way that is on next year's project list, I still have to finish siding the darn thing.
SJ
Know a little about alot and alot about little.
Edited 8/1/2002 8:04:31 AM ET by Steve Joyce
What is VG fir?
Vertical grain
It's stronger, better looking, longer wearing.
Like Jim says, almost a religious thing.Excellence is its own reward!
I've pulled out old growth fir joists on demos that were........God, it was beautiful wood, practically CVG with few knots, VERY dense tight growth rings. I also understand the quasi-religious feeling this wonderful material invokes. And to think that in the old days this was common construction lumber. Sad to look back at the way it was cut down like there was no tomorrow. As a result I consider wood to be a precious resource, and do my best to use it efficiently without wasting it.
Ken Hill
If it took God Himself over a hundred planetary cycles to grow it, it's worth a few extra minutes of my time to see that it is treated right and used in a good home where it will be appreciated.
Now someone will be asking what CVG is so I'll head it off...Clear Vertical Grain.
Excellence is its own reward!