Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 17, 2005 07:45pm | #1

   I'm not sure how you would frame under this stuff to support a herringbone deck. Have you thought that through? Something like this usually takes a detailed scale drawing.

    

    

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2. 
   Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 07:52pm | #2

   A herringbone pattern IS all butt joints , no?

     Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

1. 
   FastEddie | Sep 17, 2005 07:56pm | #3

   I think he wants to avoid butt joints in each run.    Sounds like a lot of waste ... many of the runs will be full 20 ft, but there will also be a lot of drops, and what do you do with those?  And if he frames at 16" the diagonal, and the span,  will be considerably longer.

     

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   nickwhalen | Sep 17, 2005 08:16pm | #4

   Joist  framing is 12" o.c. and yes at sixty per 20' length cost is a big factor.Would it be better to go with double diagonal ? As far as ease of laying this out? 

3. 
   Piffin | Sep 17, 2005 08:23pm | #5

   http://www.procelldeck.com/PDFs/InstallGuide.pdf

   This gives you instal and estimating advice. Have you looked at it?
   You can also get these in 12' and 16' lengths if you are going to chop them innto small units for herringboines, but I'm still lost on how you can do that. The end of each board needs support.

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
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4. 
   calvin | Sep 17, 2005 08:32pm | #6

   If you want it, make a scaled drawing.  Are you changing directions a few times in that 26' and ending up using shorts?  or is there just one herringbone joint running down the middle from front to back?

   Any which way, take that scaled drawing of every dam run and a scaled rule.   List the lengths of every pc, make note of the drops which you will use for the shorter pcs........

   If you were going to use shorts and zigzag around, you could do a certain square footage and then divide that sf-age into the whole deck dimension.

   So what if it takes an hour or two, you want no waste, an accurate order and a certain look.

   Best of luck.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   FastEddie | Sep 17, 2005 10:22pm | #7

   Ok, herer's a little sketch I did.  The outer box is 15'x26' and I arbitrarily divided it into thirds.  I used 12 ft deck boards, 5-1/2" wide with a 1/4" gap.  Looks like 12' might not quite work, depending on the framing.  I set the boards at a 45* angle.  There's a lot of drops.  I used alternating red and blue boards to try to make it a little easier to read.

     

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   rasconc | Sep 18, 2005 03:56pm | #11

   I did mine which is 12x48 in single herringbone 2x6 pt with a 2x4 center divider and 2x6 picture frame all the way around.  There was not very much waste (but then again my decking was about 1/5th as expensive).  In retrospect If doing it again I would use 2x6 for the center divider.

   \\l///////// \\l////////

   Edited 9/18/2005 7:58 pm ET by rasconc

   Edited 9/18/2005 7:59 pm ET by rasconc

5. 
   jonblakemore | Sep 17, 2005 10:36pm | #8

   The question you need to answer to begin with is how many "sections" will you have?

   If you only want two 13x15 sections joined with a herringbone in the center you will have very little waste. The full length pieces would be 18'4" long which leaves just enough for waste at the ends.

   Using up the waste on a herringbone pattern is actually pretty easy. Once you get past the run of ful length pieces your cut-off pieces will start getting longer. Save your drops and when you get to the halfway point start using up the longest cut-off pieces you have until you've finished the section.

    

   Jon Blakemore

   RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 18, 2005 01:03am | #9

   nOW I see what his thinking might be. one herringbone JOINT in the center is a whole lot different than a whole herringbone PATTERN such as you would use for a brick patio or a parquet floor 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   Dunwright | Sep 18, 2005 07:24am | #10

   After viewing your .jpg, I see that both the 8 top and bottom cut-offs produced from squaring-off the 1st section can be used in either the the 2nd or 3rd section. That is a gain of 16 planks. I don't know if you have allowed for any plank spacing. A mear 1/8" can add up to a full plank's worth quickly. Even with the man-made decking, the spacing is necessary, if only for rain to run-off.

   You would be ill advised to purchase only the exact count of what you "planned" to use. All projects need a small "waste factor" folded in. You wouldn't really want to go back for just one stick more.

   Arlington, Texas (The dash in Dallas-Fort Worth)
   Practice...'till you can do it right the first time.
1. 
   Piffin | Sep 18, 2005 05:23pm | #12

   The PDF from the company recommends 3-5% I think, for straight run. Diagonals arelikely to go up to 15% easy 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

7. 
   MRinger | Sep 19, 2005 02:00am | #13

   You need 44 pieces of 20' Procell (if the decking is 5/4" x 6") I illustrate it for you in the attachment. Just divide the deck in 2 parts and start it from outside against the house and then work from outside in. Then cut the flooring (use a straight edge) and use them to begin the rest and do the samething but, cut the flooring with the same angle and start the flooring in the front and work your way to the house, then finish the rest. The only scraps will be left is the small angle cut. Hope I anwser your ?