Walk out basement remodel.
Wall now consists of(from outside in): 10″ block, 1.5″ styrofoam, 2×4 wall w drywall.
In the past, I’ve usually purchased a standard door, and extended the jamb on the inside. This works,,,,, but of course the door only opens 90 degrees.
This time around, I’de like to get the door flush w the drywall, which means I’ll need a (nom) 12″ jamb width.
So what do others do, faced w this situation.
I’m thinking a 10″ sill is’nt going to look too good, or really function that well,,,,,,, heck it’s like the width of a step.
Many Thanks, Harry
Replies
Cant you build out the other side of the jamb?
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
OKLooking at my post maybe I was not clear.If I install a standard door (say 6 9/16" jamb), I can extend the jamb on the inside, but the door will only open 90 degrees.I've done this many times, and it's not all that bad.What I'm really getting at, is that my situation( deep, non standard wall thickness) must come up all the time,,,,,,, and I'm wondering how other deal w it.Thanks, Harry
I still dont see the problem (unless i'm seeing something other than whats there). Put the door flush to the drywall (i'm assuming the door opens in). Use the standard threshold (on cement?) then entend the jambs to the outside.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I think he wants to know what kind of jamb extention to use on the outside. Wrap wood jamb in coilstock, azek, brick, pt, stucco, basement wall parging? He!! I dont know whats the surounding house look like dont have a standard answer but If you take into account what the wall looks like cant your opening be big enough to trim the side of the basement walls with something that matches?
Im thinking if the basement wall is exposed and its stuccoed or parge just bring that into the brick mold on the door. be a good idea to slope the floor in front of threshold so you dont have to rely on silicone to hold back the water. hows that for not really providing an answer
MSA1,Maybe I'm over thinking this thing.More often than not, I see the jambs extended on the inside (for better or worse). This would incude jobs I've done,,,, and other folks work.I guess more than anything, I'm wondering what the most common solution is to the deep RO. My gut tells me to try to keep the door flush w the drywall.Thanks again, Harry
What is the exterior wall covering? If it's brick, just return the brick. There are a hundred ways to create a 10" jamb return: brick, stone, siding, boards, etc.
Keep the door flush to the inside of the dwelling. Extend your jambs to the exterior. All you need to do is support the sill adequately.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I agree with keeping the door flush with the drywall. That is why I said assuming the door opens in, to just extend the exterior side of the jamb.
I've seen alot of houses with 12" deep entry jambs and the door flushes with the inside.
BTW those were made out of the predominant material, in the case i'm thinking about, wood.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I think what was messing me up more than anything was the sill.I'm thinking the sill has to be as deep as the jambs. Which would look like siht, and be , really, a trip hazard.Not so. Don't need a 12" sill. This is on a slabThanks, Harry
Same as what i'm picturing. The sill is standard depth and rests on cement.
To put it in the simplest terms the floor of the room you're entering (in this case outside) begins in the extended jamb.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I'd be tempted to get some 5/4, and make my own door jamb. Its not that difficult, even with including a sill and proper weatherstripping.
If you are using a standard prehung exterior door with brick mold, Take the brick mold off, extend the the exterior jamb with 4/4 stock (I use cedar) and reapply the brick mold.
This leaves your threshold setting back the distance of the exterior jamb extension, but on a concrete slab it doesn't look bad. I hold the jamb extensions up 1/8 off the slab and use a good quality caulk around it, except for one small weep hole at the fron of the brick mold/jamb entersection (stack two sizzle sticks there and pull out after the caulk has set).
If you joint the jamb extension and use pocket screws to attach them, then paint the joint dissapears.
Any chance you could make the opening a bit larger?
That would allow you to put a sidelight next to the door, so the door would open more than 90°.
Congress.
Creative thought!
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Boss,There is a sidelite going in, as the opening is for a (currently installed) patio door.Good idea !Thanks, Harry
That's what the forum is all about - The old "Two heads are better 'n one" kind of thing.God knows I've gotten plenty of help around here. I'm glad I'm able to do something useful once in a while.
Any twelve people who can't get themselves out of jury duty are not my peers.
Thanks for all the input guys.I think I have my head wrapped around this now.This is a great board!Harry